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Here is a photo from last pm of noodles and chips in 24" with 70 DL,a Carlton 20" Mr. Troll has expressed concern over noodle flow with the outboard clutch. Sometimes would grab a handfull at idle, but no jams at all.(the piles were large this am when done,but alas no photo.) Saw had no complaints in the soft wood here, with the 20" burried, not too slow at all. You will have lots of fun with that saw:cheers:
 
I ran a new 357 for a bit cutting little stuff under powerlines, 18" bar, nice light saw, a real screamer. Later I used it with a 24" bar, it sucked, no good for anything big. Just my 2-cents. Lg chain, of course.
 
Dunno why it can't run a 24" bar, my 361 will do it.

Try it you might like it ;)

It repotedly can, but it will be quite front heavy, and you probably would want skip chain.....

A bigger powerhead would be better for a 24" bar.
I ran a new 357 for a bit cutting little stuff under powerlines, 18" bar, nice light saw, a real screamer. Later I used it with a 24" bar, it sucked, no good for anything big. Just my 2-cents. Lg chain, of course.

Adds up nicely.......
 
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Ths caped spec. reader strikes again!!!:rock:

Where are the infamous specs????? :biggrinbounce2: :ices_rofl:

I would almost think you have a fan or a stalker on your hands.:monkey:

Honestly Sawtroll, My 361 clugs up with noodles cutting with the grain.
Same with the 262, no real issues with the outside brake.
 
Put some of that yellow label Stihl chain on it and watch the wood chips fly!

Don't worry Germany.... If it's only a KBA vs Heidelberg thing, you still make the best printing presses!

Heidelburg? Letterpress I think. From an earlier life. 2 years vocational highschool, 2 years captive shop. Then my rich uncle said "I want you" enlist or Canada, hmmm, hmmm. Draft was good for me, 20 years, 2 months, & 23 days later, I retired.

Back to thread she's a good saw treat her right and she'll be good to you. Consider steel toed boots too.
 
you could run up to a 28" guide bar running oregon JG chain and it would still cut great:rock:

This is exactly the set up I have for large soft wood. I run the 20" bar most of the time but switch for the big stuff. I run the depth guages at about .030. I just found out my 357 came with an 8 tooth rim. I have a 7 on order. This should allow me to run .035 on everything except the very very rare oak I see.

:cheers:
 
This is exactly the set up I have for large soft wood. I run the 20" bar most of the time but switch for the big stuff. I run the depth guages at about .030. I just found out my 357 came with an 8 tooth rim. I have a 7 on order. This should allow me to run .035 on everything except the very very rare oak I see.

:cheers:

:chainsawguy: aw just have a spare chain with .015 raker's and it will still cut sweet :yoyo:
 
One important "extra" you need to buy is a extended warranty for when ("when" not "if") your saw is trashed because it won't use ethonol added fuel, or some other faulty mfg. part, Husqvarna can't say no to fixing the thing. I know... it's kinda like having to back up your own purchase.
 
Im running a 14" bar with full chisel on my 357 and the saw literally drops when cutting through wood,evan dead hardwoods.
 
Dunno why it can't run a 24" bar, my 361 will do it.

Try it you might like it ;)

Why on earth would you like to run a 24inch bar on a 357 or 361 ?
Why turn your saw into a dog? I wouldn't recommend anything over 18inch for my 262 for instance and I definately believe the 262 pulls stronger than a 361. Funny how some people only care abour bar length. Shorter bar will cost you less money (bar and chains), will transfer more power from the engine to the wood, your saw will balance better (361 with 24", how nose-heavy isn't that?), oil consumption will be reduced, fuel consumption reduced, sharpening time reduced and cutting time reduced! and and and ..
 
Why on earth would you like to run a 24inch bar on a 357 or 361 ?
Why turn your saw into a dog? I wouldn't recommend anything over 18inch for my 262 for instance and I definately believe the 262 pulls stronger than a 361. Funny how some people only care abour bar length. Shorter bar will cost you less money (bar and chains), will transfer more power from the engine to the wood, your saw will balance better (361 with 24", how nose-heavy isn't that?), oil consumption will be reduced, fuel consumption reduced, sharpening time reduced and cutting time reduced! and and and ..

I cant help but to agree... never understood big bars that americans like... but if you want big bar you better have big enough saw for it... and 24" for 361 doesnt fit into that...
 
Why on earth would you like to run a 24inch bar on a 357 or 361 ?
Why turn your saw into a dog? I wouldn't recommend anything over 18inch for my 262 for instance and I definately believe the 262 pulls stronger than a 361. Funny how some people only care abour bar length. Shorter bar will cost you less money (bar and chains), will transfer more power from the engine to the wood, your saw will balance better (361 with 24", how nose-heavy isn't that?), oil consumption will be reduced, fuel consumption reduced, sharpening time reduced and cutting time reduced! and and and ..

I cant help but to agree... never understood big bars that americans like... but if you want big bar you better have big enough saw for it... and 24" for 361 doesnt fit into that...


Troll and me agree with you both....:biggrinbounce2:

.....but we don't agree with 13" bars on 50cc saws in general....:bang:
 
Put some of that yellow label Stihl chain on it and watch the wood chips fly!

Don't worry Germany.... If it's only a KBA vs Heidelberg thing, you still make the best printing presses!

Don't forget about GOSS from the good ol' USA!

I also prefer to run a balanced saw vs. a saw with a long bar. My modded 044 has tons of power for a 24" bar even with a 9 pin sprocket (in softwood). An 18" bar is a nice match for a 357 IMO.
 

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