New Beginner Chainsaw

[pavel408]

For firewood, even if you are cutting only branches up to 15 cm (now! ), I'd look for a saw in 45-50 cc range. And then it depends on your budget: MS251/HQ445, MS271/HQ450. Or MS261/HQ545/HQ550xp if you want to spend a lot of money for a professional saw...

If Echo is sold in your area, a CS490 or similar is a great inexpensive alternative to Stihl or Husky.

This^ !!!

Next to suggested Echo CS-490 or CS-450 I add my secret tip: Shindaiwa 452s

 

[Wreckage]

Thanks for the feedback.

I think I will stick to the Ms-180, 16" bar with 3/8 0.050 chain as suggested.

Stihl dealer was happy to change the chain to that one without any extra cost.

For me this is the safest option only for one reason... I have no idea how often I will end up using the saw. If I use it few times and then ends up in the garage collecting dust (like a lot of other things), then it would of been silly to go all out on a $750-$1000 saw (like the MS-251, 291 etc). Sure those saw's can do a lot more things, only if they are used though, if it ends up sitting in garage, it wont be worth anything regardless of what it may be able to cut.

So I think I will stick to the MS-180 and see how much I use it, where I feel it could be better, what I feel takes too long to cut etc, and over 6 months I can evaluate my need and then buy something accordingly. For now buying anything is just a stab in the dark.

Regarding protective clothing etc... Are the Stihl Chaps, gloves and all that stuff good quality, or skip on that and look for something else?

What about sharpening tool, oil etc?

Stihl just priced up everything for me...

Function Chaps
Homeowner Helmet kit (Comes with a fly screen face protector and ear muffs, clear glasses)
Dynamic Vent Gloves

Saw = Ms180,
Dual sharpening tool (I think that is what it is called, it sharpens the tooth and the other thing on the chain at the same time and even has angles marked on it to make it easier)
MotoMix
Baroil

Is all that worth getting, skip on anything, get something somewhere else etc?

Thanks

 

[aesmith]

I have a Stihl MS180, a 2003 model I bought used. It was my first saw and I still use it even though I now have a 260 as well. So two points. The MS180 is a good machine, mine is still going strong at 16 years old now. All the same I still ended up buying a bigger saw after using the MS180 for four and a half years. I use a 16" bar on the 180, it's slow if you're cutting anything that needs that whole length but it manages.

For sharpening I like the two in one gadget, but the Pferd branded part is much cheaper than Stihl .. https://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b010503P.html

My 180 doesn't have adjustment for the oil pump and seems to need a thin oil, I use Stihl Synth Plus.

Hope this helps

 

[holeycow]

The hard hat will be **** cause the muffs and screen will break.

The chaps will be the least protection possible in leg-gear, also **** but much better than nothing

Forget the silly gloves and just use some good-fitting leather

Forget the file guide. It is a crutch. Just learn to file by learning the shape of the factory tooth. Study it. Learn it. Reproduce it by hand with no crutch and that will serve you well forever. If you want a guide get the roller guide from , I think Husqvarna or probably Oregon. It actually works pretty good though still entirely unnecessary. Use a sharp file, that is about the best advice.

 

[Jeffkrib]

Personally I think your making a good decision. What people have to remember is he’s going from a hand saw to a small saw it will be a massive improvement. If all goes well get a 50cc pro daw downthe the track to compliment the small saw then if the bug gets you go for a 70cc pro saw after that.

 

[TreePointer]

Any chaps are better than none, and Stihl chaps will suffice. Wear them every time.

Don't forget to add protective footwear to your list if you don't have already have it (steel/composite toes at a minimum).

If you know your hands are sensitive to vibrations, consider anti-vibration gloves. Stihl offers them, but they're also available elsewhere.

 

[andy]

Any chaps are better than none, and Stihl chaps will suffice. Wear them every time.

Don't forget to add protective footwear to your list if you don't have already have it (steel/composite toes at a minimum).

If you know your hands are sensitive to vibrations, consider anti-vibration gloves. Stihl offers them, but they're also available elsewhere.

Yes, foot protection is a really good idea for all but especially for a beginner.
I wear those heavy class 2 boots when I'm in tangled shite.
It sux on one hand (heavy) but rolling lumps of wood can be foot messer uppers.

 

[Husky Man]

I will also suggest helmet, chaps and steel toe boots, all are Cheap insurance.

I have The Husqvarna full wrap chaps, and really Like them. I need to get a pic of my Cutting jeans, I usually wear the same pair, they remind me to wear my chaps. I was cutting on a hillside, my footing wasn't as solid as I thought, those jeans have some holes where the chain Tasted them, but Amazingly, didn't even Touch skin, Damn Lucky.

I have my original helmet from 28 years ago, still doing it's Job, so to say that any PPE is Schitt, is just Ignorant in MY OPINION, YMMV.

PPE in my opinion is money well spent, IF YOU USE IT. I got Lucky, now I'm a Believer.


Doug

 

[holeycow]

if it’s a plastic hat and been left in the sun for any length of time after 28 years it’s likely ****

Cheap headgear has a cheap harness, cheap muffs, and a cheap faceshield. The attachment points for the muffs and shield will break and you’ll be buying another

Regular chaps without the calf protection are better than streetpants but they don’t offer much protection relative to the higher end chaps. And higher end chaps are a poor device relative to quality pants.

So ya, some of ppe is **** and not worth buying, imo. For mini bucks more you can get far better equipment. Especially if you shop around just a little.

Anyway, the op had made up his mind before he started , which is pretty common.

 

[full chizel]

Nothing wrong with the 180 for what he’s gonna use it for.

Be careful...IMO PPE gives some a false sense of security and they tend to be more likely to bite off more than they can chew. **** gets serious real quick.

 

[SteveSr]

Nothing wrong with the 180 for what he’s gonna use it for.

Be careful...IMO PPE gives some a false sense of security and they tend to be more likely to bite off more than they can chew. **** gets serious real quick.

PPE is your LAST line of defense... The FIRST is the grey matter between your ears!

 

[SteveSr]

I think I will stick to the Ms-180, 16" bar with 3/8 0.050 chain as suggested.

Stihl dealer was happy to change the chain to that one without any extra cost.

I would downsize the bar size to 14". The saw will cut better, balance better, and weigh less. If you think you'll need a 16" bar you need a bigger saw!

Regarding protective clothing etc... Are the Stihl Chaps, gloves and all that stuff good quality, or skip on that and look for something else?

Yes, this is what we outfit our volunteer trail sawyers with and it seems to hold up well.

Dual sharpening tool (I think that is what it is called, it sharpens the tooth and the other thing on the chain at the same time and even has angles marked on it to make it easier)

I like the regular file kit in the orange wrapper/pouch. It has everything you need - round file with guide, depth gauge tool, and flat file for the depth gauges.

The 2-in-1 is considerably more expensive, uses proprietary (expensive) files, and can over cut the depth gauges if you are not careful and bear down too hard. The round file will also wear much faster than the depth gauge file since it does most of the work.

MotoMix
Baroil

Motomix is very spendy but it is good to store in the saw if you are loathe to drain the tank and run the carb dry. If not use pump gas/oil and store properly.

For bar oil use any quality name brand. I would also avoid using any type of Bio (vegetable) oil. If not used continually it can gum up the works.

Although it hasn't been mentioned... Don't even THINK about doing any muffler modification or add extra oil to the mix for this saw. Either of these will make the mixture even leaner than it already is and could result in a roached top-end. The carburetor is non-adjustable on this model. Use it as it is and you should be alright. Even better if you're not at sea level.

 

[holeycow]

Nothing wrong with the 180 for what he’s gonna use it for.

Be careful...IMO PPE gives some a false sense of security and they tend to be more likely to bite off more than they can chew. **** gets serious real quick.

When I first started working with sawhands there was no ppe. Or maybe just a hard hat and visor. Or not.

Those guys never touched themselves with the “blade”.

Modern times roll around and most/many can’t even get through their first day with their new sawboots without touching them with the “blade”.

There is indeed a false sense of security..

 

[ShneaSIG]

I would downsize the bar size to 14". The saw will cut better, balance better, and weigh less. If you think you'll need a 16" bar you need a bigger saw!



I like the regular file kit in the orange wrapper/pouch. It has everything you need - round file with guide, depth gauge tool, and flat file for the depth gauges.

The 2-in-1 is considerably more expensive, uses proprietary (expensive) files, and can over cut the depth gauges if you are not careful and bear down too hard. The round file will also wear much faster than the depth gauge file since it does most of the work.

The 2-in-1 uses the same round files as the file holder in the standard orange filing kit. They're easily and cheaply replaced. I presume you're referring to the flat bar in the 2-in-1 that is proprietary. Maybe it costs a few bucks more than a plain flat file, but the the flat file inserts are not cost prohibitive.

I'm a big fan of the 2 in 1 - that's the easiest and most convenient system I've used for hand filing.

 

[Wreckage]

if it’s a plastic hat and been left in the sun for any length of time after 28 years it’s likely ****

Cheap headgear has a cheap harness, cheap muffs, and a cheap faceshield. The attachment points for the muffs and shield will break and you’ll be buying another

Regular chaps without the calf protection are better than streetpants but they don’t offer much protection relative to the higher end chaps. And higher end chaps are a poor device relative to quality pants.

So ya, some of ppe is **** and not worth buying, imo. For mini bucks more you can get far better equipment. Especially if you shop around just a little.

Anyway, the op had made up his mind before he started , which is pretty common.

So what is the alternative to all this PPE gear that seems to do nothing and of no benefit?

I am not the sort of user that is going to be doing stupid stuff, especially with a chain saw, but, I want to be dressed appropriately in case something did happen that was not planned on. I used a chain saw years ago for a whole day, never touched the ground with with it, never touched my boots with it (honestly don't know how people get it to touch the boots anyway) and everything seemed ok. But, I still did wear these leather type chaps the older man had. It is more there for "you never know what could happen" rather than a security thing where "Well now I can be an idiot and not use my brain".

What I don't know is, is the "stihl" stuff good, or does it just have the Stihl name but I can get far better protective gear than what they offer (like more solid type chaps) or are these things all designed to do more than they look to do? Safety is not something I am willing to go cheap on.

 

[holeycow]

I guess I am not conveying my message well. Or something.

What I am trying to say is ; buy the best quality ppe you can possibly afford. It is more comfortable, more protective, and more durable than the bottom of the line products.

Stihl, like everyone else has different qualities of almost everything. It is more important, imo to buy professional ppe than it is to buy a professional powersaw.

 

[Wreckage]

Well that makes sense,

That is what I am trying to gauge, what is the good stuff, are there alternatives, or If I do get Stihl gear, it is good I just need to make sure its the professional stuff not the cheap stuff?

I am also trying to gauge what do I need and what is not needed in that list?, or everything in that list I do need, I just need the higher end quality stuff (which again, does stihl offer that too or should I look elsewhere)

 

[holeycow]

Stihl has lots of info on their site regarding their safety gear.

Regarding chaps or pants; they are rated for chainspeed and have varying qualities of covering material and varied layers of Kevlar, for example. Chaps or pants should be pretty heavy. That’s a clue.

I think mine are 4100’s?? (3800?) With calf protection. They are decent chaps with decent hardware and will last a long time. They were the top-of-line chaps at the time-I think there is one better from Stihl now) I use kinda cheap suspenders (which you need...suspenders, that is) on mine which are ok, but wouldn’t last in a commercial environment. The chaps wouldn’t even be allowed. Pants only, 4300? FPS chain speed is all that’s allowed in my world.

Quality gear is available in many places. So is junk.

Protect your eyes. Safety glasses are available almost anywhere. They should be comfortable with side protection and have space behind for airflow. You will sweat, they will fog. Screen face shields are excellent, but ice-up in the winter and get a bit of getting used to to look through. One or the other is necessary, cause eventually you’ll get something in the face..

Protect your feet. Steel toes are ok, but saw boots are better. Good ones are very expensive. Very.

Protect your legs. The back of your calves is a common injury point..

Keep the saw bar away from you!

Watch the entire series of worksafe BC chainsaw videos. More than once.

 

[holeycow]

Huh? I guess ppe isn’t rated in the US as it is in Canada. (It’s actually rated in Canada)

I just went on both Stihl sites briefly.

 

[andy]

Buy the best Chaps you can find. Buy the best Helmet/shield you can afford.
For safety, Plastic is usually good one time if it’s good at all.
Stihl licenses their name to all kinds of junk.... so Does Hoosky, Echo and the rest......The label won’t help you.
Use your judgement when checking it out ....when in doubt.... take a pass.

Short bars can be more dangerous than long heavy ones.
I don’t know for fact but I would bet more accidents happen with 18” and shorter bars than 20” and longer.... The psychology of it all plays a role.

I’ve been in woodworks since ‘84!... PPE is the “brakes on the car” with any sharp power tool.
Meaning you don't leave the driveway unless the brakes are good.

You’re going to have some fun with your new saw. Everyone who gets into it enjoys running motor saws.
Make sure it’s safe.
Cheers!