New Beginner Chainsaw

[Husky Man]

I have a whole herd of Husky's in my garage, from the little 23 Compact, Top Handle to the 3120XP Beast. My "Old Reliable" 266XP has been a Solid performer for me, for about 28 years, the 23 Compact almost as long.

I didn't know just how much I "Needed" a Good 50cc class saw, until I picked up a Really Nice 353, that usually has an 18" bar mounted. The Wife wanted her "OWN" saw, so she got a Husky 445, for Christmas in 2017, that usually has a 16" B&C mounted. Then I kept hearing about the 550XP, and well, my CAD was too much to resist, and a 550XP, and 390 XP got added to the collection.

The 445 impressed me more than I expected, no it doesn't quite keep up with the 353, or the 550XP, but is much closer than I expected. We have been cutting a lot of wood lately, and all 3 of those 50cc class saws have been working their Butts off. We have been cutting smaller wood than usual 10-16" stuff mostly, and there have been days when the 50's were all that we used.
we've had a few logs in the 20" range, that I just grabbed the 550XP and did it, and well I might add, but we're cutting mostly Douglas Fir and White Fir, not the Rock Hard Schitt that is common in Oz.

I know and Like my Huskies, so I will recommend either the 445, or the 550XP, you should be Happy with either, by the sounds of it.

I find it interesting that Husky are more expensive down under, it is usually the opposite here.

As others have said, a SHARP CHAIN, will make more difference than a few cc's, or color of saw.


Doug

 

[Wreckage]

Thanks for the feedback.

2 schools of thought and both have merit.

1: Buy the 445/550 (ms 271) range type saw and 'grow into it' with the ability to do more as I get more confident rather than bothering with a cheap saw.
2: (the one that makes more sense to me) - start with a cheap saw, learn how to use the thing, it will make what I am doing currently much easier and see how I go with it. If I end up using it all the time and decide I want to start cutting real wood, then I can always buy a more expensive one. The cheap one isn't bad investment to 'learn on'. But if It ends up sitting in the garage for months on end never used because I decide "stuff all that, I will just buy firewood" - well, I can live with a $300 saw sitting in the garage over a $1000 one.

And yeah... Stihls are cheaper here seems like. For same Kw (touch more in stihl) it is 100-200 cheaper depending which model.

So in the price range I am happy to 'trial' things on...

Stihl:
MS-170 - $250
MS-180 - $300
MS-171 - $400
MS-181 - $450

Husqvarna:

120 Mark 2 - $350
120E-mark 2 - $400
130 - $450

Regarding the Stihl... The 170 and 171 are both 1.3kw while the 180 and 181 are both 1.5kw.

How is the 171/181 different from the 180? I mean... 180 = $300, 171 with less power = $400, $100 more expensive and then another $50 extra for the 181 upgrade making it $150 more than the MS-180.

I figured the 180 makes sense over the 170 because the 180 has a brake feature that stops the chain turning that the 170 does not have and the 180 is slightly stronger for just $50 more. So slightly safer and stronger for $50 extra, I figured that was worth it... but 171/181... jumps up $100-$150 over a 180, and for what benefit considering the 171 is less power than 180?

 

[holeycow]

 

[Whiskers]

Buy the ms180

 

[TreePointer]

Buying a chainsaw always is a compromise. You'll never get everything you want in one saw. When you accept that, things get much easier and wood gets cut.

Corollary to that, buying your first saw and learning you'd rather like to have a different model is part of the cost of the first year(s) of chainsaw ownership. I'm not saying you shouldn't make an informed decision. I am saying that even expert purchasing advice that's proper for most people actually may not fit your particular likes. It's not the end of the world if you later sell/trade your first saw get another.

I'll also state that if you purchase a homeowner saw, never operate a top performing pro saw. You'll be upset with us for saying that you should get a 180 or 251.

 

[TreePointer]

Thanks for the feedback.

2 schools of thought and both have merit.

1: Buy the 445/550 (ms 271) range type saw and 'grow into it' with the ability to do more as I get more confident rather than bothering with a cheap saw.
2: (the one that makes more sense to me) - start with a cheap saw, learn how to use the thing, it will make what I am doing currently much easier and see how I go with it. If I end up using it all the time and decide I want to start cutting real wood, then I can always buy a more expensive one. The cheap one isn't bad investment to 'learn on'. But if It ends up sitting in the garage for months on end never used because I decide "stuff all that, I will just buy firewood" - well, I can live with a $300 saw sitting in the garage over a $1000 one.

And yeah... Stihls are cheaper here seems like. For same Kw (touch more in stihl) it is 100-200 cheaper depending which model.

So in the price range I am happy to 'trial' things on...

Stihl:
MS-170 - $250
MS-180 - $300
MS-171 - $400
MS-181 - $450

Husqvarna:

120 Mark 2 - $350
120E-mark 2 - $400
130 - $450

Regarding the Stihl... The 170 and 171 are both 1.3kw while the 180 and 181 are both 1.5kw.

How is the 171/181 different from the 180? I mean... 180 = $300, 171 with less power = $400, $100 more expensive and then another $50 extra for the 181 upgrade making it $150 more than the MS-180.

I figured the 180 makes sense over the 170 because the 180 has a brake feature that stops the chain turning that the 170 does not have and the 180 is slightly stronger for just $50 more. So slightly safer and stronger for $50 extra, I figured that was worth it... but 171/181... jumps up $100-$150 over a 180, and for what benefit considering the 171 is less power than 180?

For the most part, I'm going to disagree with the idea of a "learning saw" or that a novice has to "to grow into" a 45/50cc saw. For a very long time the Stihl 290 (now 291) was Stihl's best selling saw and many beginners started with it (same for Husqvarna 455). Whether it's a 180 or a 261, a novice has to to do pretty much the same learning (kickback, push-pull forces, safe cutting practices, efficient techniques, wearing PPE, maintainance, etc.). The main difference is that one saw is more suited to perform certain tasks than the other.

As you move from the smallest saws toward 50cc saws, you gain more versatility in terms of what a saw can do fairly well. A saw like a 445 or 251 starts to become a jack-of-all trades, with the pro offerings of the ~50cc saws being he best "jacks" for those who don't cut the largest wood.

 

[2412]

Are you really 69 years old?

 

[2412]

Do you like to tinker? Will you tune it yourself? When it breaks, will you look for parts, or someone to fix it?

 

[2412]

If you don’t want to learn how to tune it, get one with a computer that will tune itself.

If you don’t want to fix it yourself, find a person you trust to fix it, and buy the saw from him.

If you will be buying parts, find the place that has parts, and buy that brand of saw.

 

[Huskitoter]

Thanks for the feedback.

2 schools of thought and both have merit.

1: Buy the 445/550 (ms 271) range type saw and 'grow into it' with the ability to do more as I get more confident rather than bothering with a cheap saw.
2: (the one that makes more sense to me) - start with a cheap saw, learn how to use the thing, it will make what I am doing currently much easier and see how I go with it. If I end up using it all the time and decide I want to start cutting real wood, then I can always buy a more expensive one. The cheap one isn't bad investment to 'learn on'. But if It ends up sitting in the garage for months on end never used because I decide "stuff all that, I will just buy firewood" - well, I can live with a $300 saw sitting in the garage over a $1000 one.

And yeah... Stihls are cheaper here seems like. For same Kw (touch more in stihl) it is 100-200 cheaper depending which model.

So in the price range I am happy to 'trial' things on...

Stihl:
MS-170 - $250
MS-180 - $300
MS-171 - $400
MS-181 - $450

Husqvarna:

120 Mark 2 - $350
120E-mark 2 - $400
130 - $450

Regarding the Stihl... The 170 and 171 are both 1.3kw while the 180 and 181 are both 1.5kw.

How is the 171/181 different from the 180? I mean... 180 = $300, 171 with less power = $400, $100 more expensive and then another $50 extra for the 181 upgrade making it $150 more than the MS-180.

I figured the 180 makes sense over the 170 because the 180 has a brake feature that stops the chain turning that the 170 does not have and the 180 is slightly stronger for just $50 more. So slightly safer and stronger for $50 extra, I figured that was worth it... but 171/181... jumps up $100-$150 over a 180, and for what benefit considering the 171 is less power than 180?

The ones with the same displacement that cost less (170, 180) have a lower expected service life. All this stuff is designed to meet a price point with x amount of hours of service life.

As was mentioned earlier, the key to cutting wood is keeping the chain sharp, so figure out how you're going do do that along with which saw.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

If you're thinking of going cheap, you're close to a Bunnings store and are familiar with their replacement warranty policy, check out this thread before you decide either way.
The normal price is AUD99. It was marked down to $68.90 when I walked through. The Ryobi version for $209 is also made by Techtronics.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/techtronics-38cc-homelite-zenoah-copy.330466/

https://www.bunnings.com.au/homelite-35cc-30cm-2-stroke-chainsaw_p0043226

 

[dougand3]

That Homelite 35cc at Bunnings looks like a fine starter saw for cheap $. If it's AU$69, that's US$49.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

That Homelite 35cc at Bunnings looks like a fine starter saw for cheap $. If it's AU$69, that's US$49.

Yeah. It was an easy choice at $69. It's back to $99 now which brings it closer to the $148 version with a longer bar.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Words like cheap and good, most of the time do not work out for me. Started with a Husqvarna 50 then purchased a 262, world of difference and money also. Buy once and enjoy cutting with it and you already have been told, most important step is to keep a sharp chain. Only owned Husqvarna 50, 55, 257, 261, 262, 272, 359, 357, 346, 371, 372, 385, 390, 394, 550, 562, 572 and several of each and maybe a few others. Once CAD sets in, one saw will just not work.

 

[livemusic]

Since you say you are cutting wood that is as hard a wood as to be found, I'd opt for something more powerful than the low end. I'd probably say a 50cc saw and maybe a 16" bar. I have a Husky 346 and it's not heavy. And someone pointed out that the Stihl 290 was about as popular a saw as there ever was.

 

[holeycow]

The very least you should buy if it has to be a Stihl, is an ms250.

They are a half-decent little saw.

Jftr, my Dolmar 420 (Makita 4300) will spank it pretty bad..and is way, way smoother and a lot nicer in pretty much every way. Jftr..

In case makita’s are available there..

Your blinders are on pretty hard with the only Husky and Stihl thing. You are also far too focused on specs. And price..

That’s it for me.

Good luck with whatever you get, and let us know how it goes!

Be careful out there!

 

[andy]

Don't bother with a tiny saw. Unless a Pro model small saws should be considered specialty saws not a primary tool.
I would not use a ms180 daily for anything other than pruning live trees.
For firewood.....Buy too small and you'll buy twice... guaranteed.

A 45-50cc multi-purpose saw is all most people need. ....16"-20" .325 bar and go cut.
If Echo is sold in your area, a CS490 or similar is a great inexpensive alternative to Stihl or Husky.
I use a smaller echo cs450 with 20".325 as my Truck saw and it's done tons of work including felling big azz cedar in a pinch.

Many of us set up a branch jig to cut "limb" firewood.
I don't recommend it until you become proficient with the saw but once you get there (and you will), it's a big time saver and makes a better pile of wood.

Good luck and be safe!

You won't do this well with a MS180 or equivalent Husky.

 

[SteveSr]

So, you suggesting I get 50cc +/-, which would be something like either a:

Stihl MS-291 or Husky 450 E-series 2?

Thing about that... it goes from $300-$400 up to $1000-$1100. (Then need all the related gear with it to price on top).

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is to go with the largest displacement (power) in the same footprint. This would be MS180 +14" bar and MS250/251 +16" bar for the smaller Stihls. If you do get the 250/251 have the selling dealer put the 3/8" low-profile bar and chain on it instead of the 0.325". It will cut much better!

The Ms291 is another clam shell homeowner design which a lot of folks consider underpowered for its weight. Instead consider the Pro quality MS261 +16" bar. I believe that the MS261 has more power and is lighter than the 291. A 261 properly cared for should last you a very long time.

 

[SteveSr]

Regarding the Stihl... The 170 and 171 are both 1.3kw while the 180 and 181 are both 1.5kw.

How is the 171/181 different from the 180? I mean... 180 = $300, 171 with less power = $400, $100 more expensive and then another $50 extra for the 181 upgrade making it $150 more than the MS-180.

The 71/81 are just newer stratocharged versions of the previous models mostly done to reduce emissions with no real user benefits that I can see.

I figured the 180 makes sense over the 170 because the 180 has a brake feature that stops the chain turning that the 170 does not have and the 180 is slightly stronger for just $50 more.

The 170 also has a chain brake on it. The only differences between the 170/180 is the piston, cylinder, and a bucking spike.

If you do get the 180 I would recommend having the selling dealer put on a 14" 3/8" .050" low profile bar and chain on the saw. It should be a no or minimal cost option. That b&c combination is more rugged and will hold up much better than the .043" that normally comes with it. Leave the .043" on the pole saws that it was originally designed for.

I recently spent a couple of days with this combination dismantling a 150 year old pecan tree (hard wood) and it worked out real well for all but the larger limbs and trunk.

 

[lil171]

The 171 also has better air filter and easier access, quick turn filler caps, better anti-vibration, and single nut to adjust chain with side mounted tensioner.