New Chain Sharpener

[tolman_paul]

Is there any thought of adding a provision to replace the hand crank with say a moto tool? Don't know if the time savings would be huge, but if you're sharpening chains in the shop seems like you might as well motorize the cutter. I've found carbide seems to cut best when spun fast.

Neat looking unit. Are the guides for the cutters aluminum or are they hardened? Seems like using a hardened drill busing inset into those bushings would make for an extremely long lasting tool.

 

[bigbadbob]

Finally!!!
And the burrs are at my cabin 2hrs away!!!!

 

[memory]

I would definitely like to have one of these tools but I really don't want to spend that much. Is there any other place to buy this item? For now, I will just stick to hand filing.

 

[gtsawyer]

Just picked up a Timberline unit from a fellow member - (thanks, btw!). He sent it with spurs for both the 3/8th and .325 chains.

The Timberline seems to be very nicely made, a definite improvement over the Gamn that I have. I can't wait to give it a shot on some of the .325 chain I have around now, which I've been putting off as most of my stuff is 3/8th. The carrying pouch is a very nice little extra too.

Benp's little modification looks like a good idea - not very much in the way of machining, and a cool extra feature.

 

[user 64030]

Is there any thought of adding a provision to replace the hand crank with say a moto tool? Don't know if the time savings would be huge, but if you're sharpening chains in the shop seems like you might as well motorize the cutter. I've found carbide seems to cut best when spun fast.

Neat looking unit. Are the guides for the cutters aluminum or are they hardened? Seems like using a hardened drill busing inset into those bushings would make for an extremely long lasting tool.

Not sure that would be the best... The cutter has a taper and uses this to shorten your long cutters to be of the same length. It only takes about 5 cranks maybe to sharpen most cutters, the longest take more time as you need to ease in using the taper to cut it down to length, if you go to fast or push to hard, it will lift the guide off the bar. The cutter comes out of the handle easily (you can ordr differnt cutters) and could ne chucked in a drill or any 1/4" arbor type device, die -grinder, or other wise, I would think.

The guides are aluminum.


dw

 

[RFIsher]

Timberline vs. electric grinder

Hello,

I've read through this entire thread today, and it is one of the more useful discussions I've seen in any forum.

I'm an amateur when it comes to chainsaws, but my brother and I have become the guys that our neighbors call when they have a smaller tree or stump to deal with, so we occasionally have chains to be sharpened. I don't mind sharpening tools by hand and prefer it over the delay in taking my tools to someone else to be sharpened (I sharpen my woodworking and woodturning tools myself).

The Timberline sounds impressive and it seems that it would be very hard to beat for field sharpening. However, if you had to choose one chain sharpening system, would it be something like the Timberline or would you choose an electric bench grinder such as this one from Garrett Wade:
Chainsaw Sharpener: Chain Saw Sharpener, Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener?

Their "Quick Feed" (i.e., bar-mounted) sharpener is currently on sale for about $75, so how would it compare to the Timberline (other than its obvious need for electricity)?

I'm leaning toward the Timberline just for the sake of portability, but should I be?

Thank you

 

[motofishman]

Just ordered mine, website says I will have it next week. I'll let you know how it works for me.

 

[benp]

Last nite I sharpened my neighbor's 55 Rancher for him with the Timberline. It's wearing Oregon full chisel.

After sharpening his saw I now noticed a difference in between chain brands (Oregon and Carlton/Windsor) that I really hadn't before concerning full chisel.

That Oregon chain turned out wicked nasty for me with the Timberline. I have NEVER been able to get it that good with my hand filing.

Now, my Dolmars wear Carlton/Windsor full chisels as it's what my dealer has in bulk.

When comparing the 2 brands the Oregon's top of the tooth is a perfect sharp angle 90. Mine are almost like a hybrid chisel/semichisel. They are sharp angled at the rear of the tooth but a little rounded towards the front.

So, I feel this is what caused me to spout my assessment of the Timberline sharpens as well as the roller/file combo.

A re-assessment is telling me that the Timberline does alot better my hand filing and it makes my quasi full chisel do pretty darn well.

I am very pleased with this sharpener with the seat time I have on it.

The company does need to machine that other notch in to at least have another option on how to do the other tooth. Plain and simple.

One other issue I have found is that stop that goes behind the tooth is getting really chewed up. Anyone else's doing that?

 

[blacklung65]

Just ordered mine today. You can still get $15 off if you PM to Rockstock. Looks like 3- 5 days delivery.

 

[Dozer Man]

Hello,

I've read through this entire thread today, and it is one of the more useful discussions I've seen in any forum.

I'm an amateur when it comes to chainsaws, but my brother and I have become the guys that our neighbors call when they have a smaller tree or stump to deal with, so we occasionally have chains to be sharpened. I don't mind sharpening tools by hand and prefer it over the delay in taking my tools to someone else to be sharpened (I sharpen my woodworking and woodturning tools myself).

The Timberline sounds impressive and it seems that it would be very hard to beat for field sharpening. However, if you had to choose one chain sharpening system, would it be something like the Timberline or would you choose an electric bench grinder such as this one from Garrett Wade:
Chainsaw Sharpener: Chain Saw Sharpener, Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener?

Their "Quick Feed" (i.e., bar-mounted) sharpener is currently on sale for about $75, so how would it compare to the Timberline (other than its obvious need for electricity)?

I'm leaning toward the Timberline just for the sake of portability, but should I be?

Thank you

RFisher,
Just checked out the garrett wade webpage. I have to say, from watching the video, the electric grinder would be tempting for the money. Hopefully it's not a "you get what you pay for" thing. Now understand this is coming from a guy that has never used an electric chain grinder, or even been around one for that matter. So take my opinion with a grain of salt, it could be a big piec-o-crap too. The one thing that has stuck in my mind ever since I read about it is the sneeze factor. With an electric chain grinder, you have to be extra careful that you don't accidently grind too much off...one mis-timed sneeze and you could ruin a good chain. It would be very hard to ruin a chain with the timberline.

I can say from experience, I like the timberline. It brought my Stihl361 with a 20" half worn-out stihl full chisel chain back to pulling like new. That impressed me very much. Oh yeah, I forgot that I finally had to use my stihl660 w/36" bar. It also had a half worn-out stihl full chisel chain. But with a fresh timberling sharpening, which took a few times around the chain to get perfect (way to many times in the dirt LOL), it cut through a 30 inch hard maple stump just like a new chain. Again, I like my Timberline!!

Just my $.02 fwiw.

 

[creekbuster]

I decided to get the Garrett grinder also due to the sale price. There is a lot of plastic on their grinder so beware. It does work as I got the quick advance model also. Getting the grinding wheel to hit and cut under the top plate took some time. The motor has plenty of torque for a small motor. I have been on the fence on returning it as I also picked up the timberline sharpener also.
The bench grinder is faster once you get it all setup compared to the timberline but you also have to remove the chain.
The timberline seems to hit the tooth perfectly once you get it all setup. It also takes time to learn and I'm still doing that.
The two holding screws seem to be my biggest issue in getting the timberline tight on the chain bar and hold it. It is very quick once you have it all setup for using it in the field. I have never used any other bench grinder so I wonder if a Oregon grinder would be easier. Keep in mind I used a file for years and just started using a grinder and the timberline so I don't have much experience.
I carry three to four extra sharp chains for both my saws so that lead me to want a bench grinder
Good luck

 

[Philbert]

However, if you had to choose one chain sharpening system, would it be something like the Timberline or would you choose an electric bench grinder such as this one from Garrett Wade . . .

First: Welcome to A.S.!

There are many ways to sharpen a chain. Personal preferences, skill, cost, workspace, etc. all factor in to this decision. You have to find a system that works for you. This usually means trying a few things, or having someone show you something that makes sense.

My main chain sharpening system is an electric bench grinder, but it cost substantially more than the plastic one you referenced, and it is a totally different tool. I like it and it works for me. If your budget is more modest, other options should be explored.

I have not tried the Timberline sharpener, but from comments in this thread, some of it's advantages seem to be: modest investment ($100 +/-), small to carry or store, don't need a shop or electricity, usable in the field or at home, repeatable results, etc.

Disadvantages . . .?

The one thing that has stuck in my mind ever since I read about it is the sneeze factor. With an electric chain grinder, you have to be extra careful that you don't accidently grind too much off...one mis-timed sneeze and you could ruin a good chain.

Not a realistic factor. If your sneezes are that devastating, what could happen when you are holding a running a chainsaw or driving a car?

The bench grinder is faster once you get it all setup compared to the timberline but you also have to remove the chain. . . I have never used any other bench grinder so I wonder if a Oregon grinder would be easier. . . I carry three to four extra sharp chains for both my saws so that lead me to want a bench grinder.

Nice to have a side-by-side comparison. Good point also about the difference between on-the-saw-sharpening and bench sharpening.

If you only have one chain for your saw, tools like the Timberline, or periodic file touch ups can work. A lot of people also like the Granberg File-N-Joint for about $30 (LINK: Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide). I tried the Oregon version when I first started sharpening my chains and got very good results and it helped me to develop filing skills. It was relatively slow, but I only had one or two chains to sharpen so that was not a big issue. These tools also work off of the saw if you chuck a spare (or scrap) bar in a vise and mount the chain and tool on that.

The Oregon 511A grinder that I use is faster to set up and to sharpen multiple chains. It uses larger diameter wheels and has a more powerful motor, which is especially helpful when cleaning up a 'rocked' chain (but not so powerful that it will cut my chain in half if I sneeze!).

Philbert

 

[Dozer Man]

Not a realistic factor. If your sneezes are that devastating, what could happen when you are holding a running a chainsaw or driving a car?



Nice to have a side-by-side comparison. Good point also about the difference between on-the-saw-sharpening and bench sharpening.


The Oregon 511A grinder that I use is faster to set up and to sharpen multiple chains. It uses larger diameter wheels and has a more powerful motor, which is especially helpful when cleaning up a 'rocked' chain (but not so powerful that it will cut my chain in half if I sneeze!).

Philbert

.

Question about the Oregon 511A...does it have a presettable "mechanical stop" to keep the cut depth uniform?? Or does it keep grinding until you quit pushing. Just curious because the Garrett looked like it will just keep grinding. If all chain sharpening grinders have a mechanical stop for the cut "depth"(not talking about the chain stop) well then I plead ignorance. Obviously you didn't see the comedy in the "sneeze factor" (someone elses words, not mine). Btw, when I feel a sneeze coming on I will stop sawing, but I won't pull my truck over, so beware LOL. I definately had no intentions to slam all grinder sharpeners. I bought the timberline as a inexpensive alternative to an Oregon grinder, that doesn't mean I don't want the grinder.

 

[Philbert]

Question about the Oregon 511A...does it have a presettable "mechanical stop" to keep the cut depth uniform??

Yes. Most chain grinders, apparently aside from the el-cheapo type, have adjustable stops for positioning each cutter and for the depth to which the wheel will grind. These need to be adjusted for the chain, and for grinding wheel wear. This feature can also be used to lower the chains' depth gauges.

That does not mean that they are all accurate, that they will not move, that Right and Left cutters are automatically ground the same, etc. Part of this has to do with the quality of the grinder and the initial set up and/or adjustment. Some vises need to be centered, some are self-centering, etc.

Obviously you didn't see the comedy in the "sneeze factor" (someone elses words, not mine).

There is an unreasonable bias against chain grinders on A.S. It would not surprise me that someone would suggest such a thing.

A chain grinder is not automatic (except the multi-thousand dollar automatic ones, which are). They cannot just be used like a chop saw. People who do not take the time to learn how to use them, and to develop some skill with them, can ruin chains, which leads some people to think that chain grinders are bad. Just as if someone runs their new STIHL chain into a rock and ruins it does not make their MS660 'bad', it is the fault of the operator.

I bought the timberline as a inexpensive alternative to an Oregon grinder, that doesn't mean I don't want the grinder.

I have not used the Timberline, but it looks like it works for some people. It does not mean that you only have to have one method. I have files and guides for use in the field or for touch ups. The Timberline could be something you keep and use in the field, or when you are away from electricity, or when you are somewhere where you don't want to make a lot of noise or dust (at home when the baby is sleeping). It might be all that you need. Watch for sales (Bailey's periodically has their Speed Sharp grinder on sale for $300) or keep an eye out for a good used grinder in the meantime.

Philbert

 

[FlyLow]

What size are you guys using with stihl rsc 7/32 or 13/64? I read all 20 pages and didn't see if the timberline recommended 13/64 is the same as what's recommended around here.

 

[creekbuster]

Timberline offer three file sizes when you order.

7/32
3/16
5/32


The Garrett does have a depth stop that is one of the many adjustment to can set.

 

[deye223]

Timberline offer three file sizes when you order.

7/32
3/16
5/32


The Garrett does have a depth stop that is one of the many adjustment to can set.

he has just added 13/64 as well

 

[memory]

I am really tempted to buy this after reading how everybody loves it. I just feel that I am not doing a good job hand filing. My question is how many times can you sharpen a chain before the cutters wear out? And when they do wear out, where can you buy replacements? Sorry if this has already been answered.

Is there any other place to buy this from?

 

[MacLaren]

I am really tempted to buy this after reading how everybody loves it. I just feel that I am not doing a good job hand filing. My question is how many times can you sharpen a chain before the cutters wear out? And when they do wear out, where can you buy replacements? Sorry if this has already been answered.

Is there any other place to buy this from?

If you are talkin about the Timberline, then you will get a whole lot of use out of the carbide tip. Prolly 30+ sharpenings. Maybee more. You can get replacements from them for only 10 bucks if memory serves.

 

[memory]

Yes I am talking about the Timberline. What I have seen from their website is you have to buy the whole kit. I did not see an option to buy just the cutters. And if replacements only costs $10, then why do they cost $20 when you buy the whole kit?