New Chain Sharpener

[confused8122]

Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?

 

[danl]

Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?

When I bought mine, I just called and the Phil the owner answered and I asked him if I could have the arborisite discount and he said sure, I gave him my ccard and I had the timberline in 3 days. All the way from Idaho to Missouri.
very fast shipping

 

[KLK]

Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?

You can use ksl5 to get the discount if you order online. :msp_thumbup:

 

[confused8122]

Thanks for the info, I ended up emailing them, they responded by saying they would be happy to give an arboristsite.com member a discount.
Same code, $20 off.

 

[BP021]

You guys convinced me to order & try. Now I can see just how bad my chain filing was also.

 

[Philbert]

You guys convinced me to order & try. Now I can see just how bad my chain filing was also.

Please post your results either way!

It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).

Philbert

 

[nstueve]

I'd be interested to see and use one in person. I just can't believe the hype for this sharpener. I'm sure it works great but when I look around locally on CL I can usually find a tecomec or oregon 511a sharpener for $150. Even if I couldn't find a name brand one, the chinese NT editions work pretty dang good too. And for the few times I would ever need to sharpen in the field, I could use a husky guide ($20 for a flat file, handle, 2 round files, and the jig). They also would have done well to make a 10* angle guide for all the guys that do chainsaw milling. I can see those guys buying one of these to field sharpen their chains a TON! It would also alleviate the need to have 1-2 dozen ripping chains for a days worth of milling, and would also save chainsaw millers the time to swap loops. Some of the chainsaw mills are a huge pain to swap chains out on... Just my 2 cents.

And if I missed something in the middle of this 30+ page thread I'm sorry but I don't feel then need to invest in that much reading time...

cheers
nate

PS: i'm not saying it's not a good system but the price seems a little exorbitant... $50-$75 maybe... Plus adding the other angle guides pushes this pocket guide closer to the price of a good used grinder.

Just 2 cents from a guy who doesn't know nothin'.... :msp_mellow:

 

[Philbert]

I'd be interested to see and use one in person.

Me too!

I'm happy with the current methods I have for sharpening chains, so I am not likely to buy one. But I am interested in trying one due to all of the positive comments here on A.S. I keep hoping that someone will bring one to a GTG so I can see / try one in person.

Philbert

 

[Homelite410]

One of these make the timberline sharpener work nice.

 

[half_full]

Please post your results either way!

It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).

Philbert

This is exactly what I do. If I have a full day of cutting planned I use the timberline the day/evening prior. Then in the field I hand sharpen. For rocked chain I use the HF grinder first, then the dremel to shape the lower part of the tooth, then the timberline to finish. Seems like alot but it works for me.

When I first got my timberline I used it exclusively. Then I found I can get a good cut with a touch up via hand file after every tank of fuel.

 

[rwoods]

I'd be interested to see and use one in person. I just can't believe the hype for this sharpener. I'm sure it works great but when I look around locally on CL I can usually find a tecomec or oregon 511a sharpener for $150. Even if I couldn't find a name brand one, the chinese NT editions work pretty dang good too. And for the few times I would ever need to sharpen in the field, I could use a husky guide ($20 for a flat file, handle, 2 round files, and the jig). They also would have done well to make a 10* angle guide for all the guys that do chainsaw milling. I can see those guys buying one of these to field sharpen their chains a TON! It would also alleviate the need to have 1-2 dozen ripping chains for a days worth of milling, and would also save chainsaw millers the time to swap loops. Some of the chainsaw mills are a huge pain to swap chains out on... Just my 2 cents.

And if I missed something in the middle of this 30+ page thread I'm sorry but I don't feel then need to invest in that much reading time...

cheers
nate

PS: i'm not saying it's not a good system but the price seems a little exorbitant... $50-$75 maybe... Plus adding the other angle guides pushes this pocket guide closer to the price of a good used grinder.

Just 2 cents from a guy who doesn't know nothin'.... :msp_mellow:

Not to dissuade you from trying one, but in fairness to the Timberline most of us need a little time fooling with one to get it right. As with all new to us things, some folks get a little more enthusiastic than warranted. Nevertheless, it is a great tool. Whether or not it is the tool for you is another question. If you have a good grinder and you are proficient at hand filing and you either have extra chains or don't mind filing rocked chains or don't do in field sharpening then I would keep my $ in my pocket. If you don't have a grinder and don't have good hand filing skills, I would highly recommend one as they do work well, they are cheaper than a name brand grinder and you can field sharpen. Between these extremes, it is pure personal preference in my book.

Now what I would really like is a less expensive square filing jig.

Ron

 

[Red Amor]

I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill

 

[half_full]

I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill

I cut all types of local wood species for firewood. About 15-20 face cord per year.
not a sharpening, just a touch up. 1 or 2 strokes of the file per tooth at each fill up is much easier than bringing back a dull chain.

 

[olyman]

I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill

timber that is close to a field,,CAN, tend to have a lot of dirt blown into the bark..chains dislike that...................

 

[avason]

I'm getting one for my birthday.:big_smile:

 

[MindFork]

You can use ksl5 to get the discount if you order online. :msp_thumbup:

Thanks for the code. I just ordered mine with 13/64 and 3/8 cutters. Looking forward to having a sharp chain every time I hack away on the firewood pile.

 

[Icepack]

How about some diamond cutters for carbide chains?

 

[BP021]

Please post your results either way!

It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).

Philbert

I had 2 Oregon chains 20" & 2 Stihl 24" chains that were bought together. I took 1 of each brand & had sharpened by grinder & the other 2 I used my Timberline. I was shocked that the Timberline chains held up very good vs the ground chains. I also had 2 old beat up chains with very little life left to them & had same thing done, the ground chain won by far. Had I more patience then maybe I could've done a better job.

What I found to be best way tho, is to sharpen the chain more frequently, & it stays as sharp as if it were new. And it takes just a few minutes. By far this tool is the easiest way I've found to sharpen chains.

 

[srb08]

I had 2 Oregon chains 20" & 2 Stihl 24" chains that were bought together. I took 1 of each brand & had sharpened by grinder & the other 2 I used my Timberline. I was shocked that the Timberline chains held up very good vs the ground chains. I also had 2 old beat up chains with very little life left to them & had same thing done, the ground chain won by far. Had I more patience then maybe I could've done a better job.

What I found to be best way tho, is to sharpen the chain more frequently, & it stays as sharp as if it were new. And it takes just a few minutes. By far this tool is the easiest way I've found to sharpen chains.

With beat up chains, I've found that multiple passes works best.

 

[Magnumitis]

For $30, these work great.