New Chain Sharpener
- Thread starter Old51AVE
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memory
ArboristSite Guru
Mine has the 3 jaws as well and I avoid the flat spot but it still does not spin it perfectly true. The wobble is not bad but enough that I don't know if I want to try to sharpen with it. I don't know if the chuck is messed up or not. If I put the cutter as far down into the chuck as it will go, it spins perfectly true with no wobble at all. Maybe it just needs to be rotated to a certain place in the chuck so it doesn't wobble.
I was having trouble getting my TImberline set level and came up with the idea of using a feeler gauge. On 3/8 Oregon chain DG72 I am using a 13/64 carbide and gapping .095" above the cutters at the front and back. I have been taking very little off on two passes and it is the best I have been able to sharpen a chain in my whole 56 years.
I haven't tried the feeler gauge on a different size chain or with 7/32 or 3/16 carbides yet.
I haven't tried the feeler gauge on a different size chain or with 7/32 or 3/16 carbides yet.
I'm happy with mine...takes a bitter longer than sharpening the regular way, but at least I know that it is true. definitely a learning curve
OLD MAN GRINDER
ArboristSite Operative
Got my timberline about a month ago, sharpened my 660 chain and my 310 chain on the saws, finally got a big
stump job that needed some cut down and got a chance to use the newly sharpened chains, don't know what
i did wrong but the 660 would not cut hot butter, the 310 cut good enough to get some stumps done, but when
i went to get the 660 for some big stumps, didn't go 2 inches into the stump and no farther, don't know what
i did wrong but had to go to the truck and put on a new chain to finish stumps, going to put an old bar in the
vise today and try again to see what i am doing wrong, really confused at this point....
Bob......
stump job that needed some cut down and got a chance to use the newly sharpened chains, don't know what
i did wrong but the 660 would not cut hot butter, the 310 cut good enough to get some stumps done, but when
i went to get the 660 for some big stumps, didn't go 2 inches into the stump and no farther, don't know what
i did wrong but had to go to the truck and put on a new chain to finish stumps, going to put an old bar in the
vise today and try again to see what i am doing wrong, really confused at this point....
Bob......
Sean80
ArboristSite Member
Did you take the rakers down? Maybe you have a burr on your bar.Got my timberline about a month ago, sharpened my 660 chain and my 310 chain on the saws, finally got a big
stump job that needed some cut down and got a chance to use the newly sharpened chains, don't know what
i did wrong but the 660 would not cut hot butter, the 310 cut good enough to get some stumps done, but when
i went to get the 660 for some big stumps, didn't go 2 inches into the stump and no farther, don't know what
i did wrong but had to go to the truck and put on a new chain to finish stumps, going to put an old bar in the
vise today and try again to see what i am doing wrong, really confused at this point....
Bob......
OLD MAN GRINDER
ArboristSite Operative
I think I fig out the problem,,,the chains were never sharpened and set 13/64 and I am using a 7/32 so I had to reset each tooth twice to get them at 7/32, took a while but they are cutting great now, the timberline takes some time to get used to using, having some trouble keeping the knobs tight against the bar but overall I think I have it figured out. since I now have the teeth at 7/32 should not be a problem on the next sharpening....
Bob.....
elggod
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i bought my timberline sharpener about 2 month's ago.....love it!! the only issue i had with it was the absence of a second chain guide clip to help hold the chain tooth
perfectly vertical.......the carbide cutter's the way they are designed pull the chain tooth towards the carbide cutter and the tooth wind's up being tipped....the way i resolved this was by adding another guide clip...work's perfect now.......... the teeth are held in the exact same position every time
perfectly vertical.......the carbide cutter's the way they are designed pull the chain tooth towards the carbide cutter and the tooth wind's up being tipped....the way i resolved this was by adding another guide clip...work's perfect now.......... the teeth are held in the exact same position every time
elggod
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here are some pic's......it wasn't an easy 5 minute fix......some machining involved......i am fortunate to have a mill and a lathe.....the hardest part is the groove for the clip to sit in....that had to be done by hand with a file.... pic's aren't great but it'll give you the idea
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jwade
ArboristSite Operative
wow that is an amazing job. i too noticed that the chain was not being held as securely as needed but not nearly smart enough to figure out a remedey. really professional job, maybe the company might consider compensating you for a patent update.
I'm not really satisfied with mine. I've gone back to hand sharpening and figured out that I'm not to bad at sharpening at all. Good tool but it seems that it isn't a good fit for me.
List it in the Trading Post - there are a lot of guys who would be interested in trying one.
Philbert
Good Idea...I'll try it out.
elggod
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i found that one of those big plastic zip ties about .297 wide and .070 thick are just about right for .325 chain
I'm running WoodlandPro 20NK .325 x .50 semi-chisel chain that has a 35 degree angle, to cut mostly oak. Would I be better off using the standard Timberline 30 degree angle guide because of the hard wood, or get the 35 degree angle guide?
