Did you take the rakers down? Maybe you have a burr on your bar.Got my timberline about a month ago, sharpened my 660 chain and my 310 chain on the saws, finally got a big
stump job that needed some cut down and got a chance to use the newly sharpened chains, don't know what
i did wrong but the 660 would not cut hot butter, the 310 cut good enough to get some stumps done, but when
i went to get the 660 for some big stumps, didn't go 2 inches into the stump and no farther, don't know what
i did wrong but had to go to the truck and put on a new chain to finish stumps, going to put an old bar in the
vise today and try again to see what i am doing wrong, really confused at this point....
Bob......
Did you take the rakers down? Maybe you have a burr on your bar.
wow that is an amazing job. i too noticed that the chain was not being held as securely as needed but not nearly smart enough to figure out a remedey. really professional job, maybe the company might consider compensating you for a patent update.here are some pic's......it wasn't an easy 5 minute fix......some machining involved......i am fortunate to have a mill and a lathe.....the hardest part is the groove for the clip to sit in....that had to be done by hand with a file.... pic's aren't great but it'll give you the idea
List it in the Trading Post - there are a lot of guys who would be interested in trying one.I'm not really satisfied with mine. I've gone back to hand sharpening and figured out that I'm not to bad at sharpening at all. Good tool but it seems that it isn't a good fit for me.
I was having trouble getting my TImberline set level and came up with the idea of using a feeler gauge. On 3/8 Oregon chain DG72 I am using a 13/64 carbide and gapping .095" above the cutters at the front and back. I have been taking very little off on two passes and it is the best I have been able to sharpen a chain in my whole 56 years.
I haven't tried the feeler gauge on a different size chain or with 7/32 or 3/16 carbides yet.
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