New Chain Sharpener

[Philbert]

I use my timberline every 4th time otherwise i use my little electric sharpener

Curious - What does one do that the other doesn't, and vise-versa?

Which electric sharpener?

Thanks.

Philbert

 

[snoozeys]

I find the timberline takes longer to use... i mostly use it to keep all the teeth identical length and sharpness where as the electric sharpens quickly and minimal setup time

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

 

[nstueve]

Curious - What does one do that the other doesn't, and vise-versa?

Which electric sharpener?

Thanks.

Philbert

I'll try to get my round grinders all set up with a performance review for you a little later this winter when I have some more shop time on hand. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

I'll try to get my round grinders all set up with a performance review for you a little later this winter when I have some more shop time on hand.

Thanks Nate! That comparison would be worth it's own thread, or maybe, adding onto the thread below:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-grinders.287458/

Because it would not include the Timberline sharpener (focus of this thread).


Philbert

 

[nstueve]

Thanks Nate! That comparison would be worth it's own thread, or maybe, adding onto the thread below:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-grinders.287458/

Because it would not include the Timberline sharpener (focus of this thread).


Philbert

I'll start my own thread. Would be nice to have a 511ax with hydro clamp and a maxx grinder to help compare all of the together at once. Clint has a hydro clamp model... So the maxx is the only one I'll probably miss.

Also I will be doing this with reg stone wheels only. Not getting into the $100 CBN wheel discussion. Just basic use and faults of each one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[amberg]

well after running across this thread and reading all 35 pages, I think I have been convinced to try the timberline sharpener. I have sent a email to
timberline asking how the 7/32 bit will work on the stihl 3/8 chisel chain or would the 13/64 bit be best. has any one tried this with good results? or
just stick with the 13/64 bit.

 

[SteveSS]

I use the 13/64 cutter on all of my 3/8 chain with no problems.

 

[Moparmyway]

well after running across this thread and reading all 35 pages, I think I have been convinced to try the timberline sharpener. I have sent a email to
timberline asking how the 7/32 bit will work on the stihl 3/8 chisel chain or would the 13/64 bit be best. has any one tried this with good results? or
just stick with the 13/64 bit.

Its not like grabbing a 7/32 file.
the Timberline positions the cutter, to get the correct hook, I would suggest 13/64

If filing, I would grab the 7/32 and file a little low to clean the gullet

 

[SteveSS]

I'll start my own thread. Would be nice to have a 511ax with hydro clamp and a maxx grinder to help compare all of the together at once. Clint has a hydro clamp model... So the maxx is the only one I'll probably miss.

Also I will be doing this with reg stone wheels only. Not getting into the $100 CBN wheel discussion. Just basic use and faults of each one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll definitely be on the lookout for that thread. I've been kicking around the idea of adding a grinder to my work bench.

 

[heyduke]

well after running across this thread and reading all 35 pages, I think I have been convinced to try the timberline sharpener. I have sent a email to
timberline asking how the 7/32 bit will work on the stihl 3/8 chisel chain or would the 13/64 bit be best. has any one tried this with good results? or
just stick with the 13/64 bit.

i use the 7/32 for 3/8 chain. it cuts aggressively, self feeds and lasts a long time. i'd like to try the 13/64 but haven't gotten around to it yet. i use 5/32 for the 3/8 lo-pro on my top handle saws. if a chain is damaged i use an oregon grinder to true it up and then finish with the timberline. also, after a days work i often enjoy a cool one while i freshen the edges on the chains i used. the 7/32 also works well on .404. i don't use .325 chain.

it's a good idea to buy replacement bits when you purchase the timberline. a beginner is often over zealous. if you've read this thread you'll know that it's best to go slow and make multiple passes. after you've sharpened a chain with the timberline, a single, light application will get it back to razor sharp after a days use.

 

[amberg]

well I placed the order from bailey's this morning, they have it on sale now $99.99 bits on sale to. but the 13/64" bit is out of stock. so I got the 3/8 and
the 3/16" bits, forgot to get extra ones. I will take just a little at a time like I would with the grinder. also tried my new pferd 7/32 guide on the 044
yesterday, liked it better than the stihl guide, don't like that it only has 35 degree angle on it though.

 

[heyduke]

well I placed the order from bailey's this morning, they have it on sale now $99.99 bits on sale to. but the 13/64" bit is out of stock. so I got the 3/8 and
the 3/16" bits, forgot to get extra ones. I will take just a little at a time like I would with the grinder. also tried my new pferd 7/32 guide on the 044
yesterday, liked it better than the stihl guide, don't like that it only has 35 degree angle on it though.

correction: i use the 3/16", not 7/32" bits. it's been a while since i ordered my last one and my memory is good for ten minutes max. the guy at timberline is very fast, so if you didn't order an extra bit, he will get you one in a hurry.

some suggestions: the carbide bits are brittle, like glass. be careful no to drop them and don't tighten the chain stop too tight. i've found that the best technique is to push the bit all the way in, past the taper and tighten the chain stop so the bit is firmly against the cutter. then do all the rest of the cutters with that adjustment. it often takes three passes on each side. after you get the chain precisely trued and sharp, one pass will be enough to restore the edge, unless there is damage or excessive wear. you can use the timberline on a new chain. it will cut much better.

good luck, i hope your timberline works as well for you as it does for me.

 

[dall]

im waiting on my timberline sharpener i ordered from wesspurs 99 for the unit and 22 for each bit free shipping

 

[amberg]

correction: i use the 3/16", not 7/32" bits. it's been a while since i ordered my last one and my memory is good for ten minutes max. the guy at timberline is very fast, so if you didn't order an extra bit, he will get you one in a hurry.

some suggestions: the carbide bits are brittle, like glass. be careful no to drop them and don't tighten the chain stop too tight. i've found that the best technique is to push the bit all the way in, past the taper and tighten the chain stop so the bit is firmly against the cutter. then do all the rest of the cutters with that adjustment. it often takes three passes on each side. after you get the chain precisely trued and sharp, one pass will be enough to restore the edge, unless there is damage or excessive wear. you can use the timberline on a new chain. it will cut much better.

good luck, i hope your timberline works as well for you as it does for me.

think I will give them a call and have them send me a 13/64 bit and also a couple spares, ( I do drop things a lot ) they did reply to my email and said
that it was a matter of preference on bit size to use. they also said that stihl recommends the 13/64 but a lot of people still use the 7/32 so I will try it
when it gets here to see how it does.

now it is eggnog time!!

 

[heyduke]

think I will give them a call and have them send me a 13/64 bit and also a couple spares, ( I do drop things a lot ) they did reply to my email and said
that it was a matter of preference on bit size to use. they also said that stihl recommends the 13/64 but a lot of people still use the 7/32 so I will try it
when it gets here to see how it does.

now it is eggnog time!!

sounds great, sip some nog and watch the game.

 

[radioFlash]

I've got some chains which comes sharpened at 25° (Husqvarna H47X) or 35° (Carlton A1EP). Is there much of a downside to just sharpening them both at 30° with the Timberline?

 

[amberg]

I think that you can get the 25 and 35 degree inserts for the timberline as an accessory.

 

[Philbert]

Is there much of a downside to just sharpening them both at 30° . . .

In theory, the chains will cut differently if sharpened at different angles. These differences can be objectively measured in a controlled situation/test, and the chains can be optimized for specific performance (speed, longevity, different wood species, etc.). In practice, most guys will probably not notice the difference - they use whatever comes out of the package, or whatever angles the guy at the sharpening place used.

If you are someone who will notice the difference, you may have answered your own question.

Some sharpening methods and equipment allow the user great flexibility in choosing and customizing different chain angles. Others offer greater simplicity in use, by limiting those choices.

Philbert

 

[radioFlash]

Thanks Amberg & Philbert for the replies--I've got the inserts on order, but would rather not switch them out all the time if it won't hurt anything.

 

[Philbert]

Be sure to post your impressions/experiences with the sharpener after you have had a chance to try it out!

Philbert