radioFlash
ArboristSite Lurker
Here are my impressions so far:
I'm a homeowner with about 5 acres. I've got a Stihl MS251 with an 18" bar that I've used to remove a few trees and flush cut some stumps. I tried the Grandberg guide, but found it to be a bit fiddly to setup and the quality of the casting looked terrible--it might function fine, but I only tried it a couple of times before I gave up on it.
The Timberline is certainly more expensive, but it seems to be working well for me. I've used it about a dozen times so far.
Cost: It's pricey compared to most other sharpening options other than a bench grinder, but beats taking a trip to a dealer and paying $15 per sharpening.
Effectiveness: It gets the chains as sharp or sharper than new when used properly.
Ease of use: The most difficult thing is getting it mounted on the bar correctly. It still takes me a few minutes to get it set so it's balanced and doesn't catch on the chain. The first time I used it I chewed up the carbide cutter. It may have been because I didn't mount it properly, the chain was in bad shape, or there was some sand/dirt on the chain. Once mounted on the bar, it's easy enough to set the thumbscrew and start sharpening. I'm still slow at it, so people who are pros at hand sharpening will not be impressed with my speed.
Build quality: The machining and finish seem very good. The carbide cutters are fragile and won't survive abuse, so you need to proceed carefully. I'm concerned that the pawl and carbide guides are aluminum which might wear over time as they're rubbing against a much harder material (the chain and carbide). Fortunately, Timeberline sells replacements for these items (as long as they're still in business!). The pouch is just big enough to hold the sharpener, but it would be a better if it were just a little larger to hold some extra handles and cutters.
I just got a new chainsaw (562XP), but have yet to use the Timberline on its chains yet.
I'm a homeowner with about 5 acres. I've got a Stihl MS251 with an 18" bar that I've used to remove a few trees and flush cut some stumps. I tried the Grandberg guide, but found it to be a bit fiddly to setup and the quality of the casting looked terrible--it might function fine, but I only tried it a couple of times before I gave up on it.
The Timberline is certainly more expensive, but it seems to be working well for me. I've used it about a dozen times so far.
Cost: It's pricey compared to most other sharpening options other than a bench grinder, but beats taking a trip to a dealer and paying $15 per sharpening.
Effectiveness: It gets the chains as sharp or sharper than new when used properly.
Ease of use: The most difficult thing is getting it mounted on the bar correctly. It still takes me a few minutes to get it set so it's balanced and doesn't catch on the chain. The first time I used it I chewed up the carbide cutter. It may have been because I didn't mount it properly, the chain was in bad shape, or there was some sand/dirt on the chain. Once mounted on the bar, it's easy enough to set the thumbscrew and start sharpening. I'm still slow at it, so people who are pros at hand sharpening will not be impressed with my speed.
Build quality: The machining and finish seem very good. The carbide cutters are fragile and won't survive abuse, so you need to proceed carefully. I'm concerned that the pawl and carbide guides are aluminum which might wear over time as they're rubbing against a much harder material (the chain and carbide). Fortunately, Timeberline sells replacements for these items (as long as they're still in business!). The pouch is just big enough to hold the sharpener, but it would be a better if it were just a little larger to hold some extra handles and cutters.
I just got a new chainsaw (562XP), but have yet to use the Timberline on its chains yet.
