amberg
Addicted to ArboristSite
philbert
I think that I can't give a good opinion as of yet, but so far it is looking good.
charlie
New Chain Sharpener
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philbert
I think that I can't give a good opinion as of yet, but so far it is looking good.
charlie
Wood Sniffer
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi all. New to ArboristSite & thought I would add to this thread. I LOVE the timberline sharpener. I've done 4 chains so far with great results. For a few resons I can't do much hand filing any more. 
With the timberline I could sharpen chain most of the day. 
Starting a sharpening biz & the timberline is a life saver for me. Have a good 1 all.
With the timberline I could sharpen chain most of the day. Starting a sharpening biz & the timberline is a life saver for me. Have a good 1 all. That was real nice form, Philbert always contributes to chain anything threads.....his reasons for not owning one are the same as mine, but I would love to hear him post about the timberline after some play time. Its nice to get an opinion from someone that has a good amount of experience with all the grinders, jigs out in the market. Most people only have one or two devices.
SteveSS
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very solid advice, right there. I was working on a chain a few weeks ago when I noticed a busted driver. I finished sharpening the chain, and took it to my local shop since I don't have the tools to fix it. Gave it to the counter guy who disappeared for a minute and came back with my repaired chain while trying to dig a metal splinter out of his finger. I neglected to clean up the chain before I took it in. Oops. Those little metal shavings can be a real pain in the finger.
SteveSS
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think I definitely would not use it as a corner stone of any sharpening business. Fast, it is not. At least for me.Hi all. New to ArboristSite & thought I would add to this thread. I LOVE the timberline sharpener. I've done 4 chains so far with great results. For a few resons I can't do much hand filing any more.
Wood Sniffer
ArboristSite Lurker
I prob wouldn't be doing much more 6-8 18-24" chains a day so speed is not a big thing. But I do know there is 1 guy close by that has a 6 footer. Even with a electric that would take a while. lol Mostly just a few around that don't want to drive 20+ mile or by new chain every time theirs gets dull. Can get something else if I get too busy.
Even with a electric that would take a while. lol Mostly just a few around that don't want to drive 20+ mile or by new chain every time theirs gets dull. Can get something else if I get too busy. Wood Sniffer
ArboristSite Lurker
Wish I could. Have no way to make vid rite now. Did mine using just a bar sitting in my lap. Made for some fun moments. lol Well3 of the 4 anyway.
amberg
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only using the timberline two more times since last post, I have found that you HAVE to on a used chain, use your regular file ( with out the guide ) to cut the gullets down on at least 1 left hand and 1 right hand tooth, so you can set the timberline bits the same height for both sides, then you can make a couple passe's on 1 or both sides at the same time, and all the cutters will be the same. ( TIP) make sure both left and right bits are cutting at the same height. or check with calipers. as you would do on the the depth gauges, It makes a super sharp chain, be it RM, or RS, makes no difference. (TIP ) first learn depth of your gullets, and the chain pitch, angle, etc. even with glass's now I can not see what angle to push the file. IMO some people will love it like me, and others will not like it. ( I happen to like it ) like I said you must have a under standing first. try it you might like it.
What ever you do, do not turn it counter clockwise!
Jon9sered
ArboristSite Lurker
.404 tooth same as 3/8 so will work even tho the link is longer, so should work with a good set up.
I will try that as my results are very inconsistent. Sometimes really good both sides, sometimes good one side only. Sometimes neither very good. Ron
Philbert Meets the Timberline (Finally!)
Thanks to a very patient member and his generosity, I was finally able to try the Timberline sharpener. My impressions generally track with the 38 pages (!) of this thread, and some related threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/timberline-chainsaw-sharpeners.191747/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpening-tool.237082/
First, start with Philbert's general rule of chain sharpening: "Everybody has to find something that works for them."
General Impressions
The Timberline is pretty simple to use, but not obvious. The YouTube video really helped me to understand how to set it up, especially for the first time, and the comments in this thread from users were also very helpful. The unit I received did not come with any printed instructions, so I can't comment on those. Like any other sharpening device or method, I am sure that users get better, and more efficient, with practice.
This device appears to be best suited for 'touch-up' sharpening: restoring edges dulled from normal use and wear, rather than those damaged from hitting rocks or other hazards. Several users noted taking just a little off at a time, which is appropriate for this application. In fairness, I would still want to use a full-sized chain grinder to restore rocked chains, so that does not make the Timberline much different from any file guide in that respect.
Setting the height of the Timberline on the guide bar appears to be key; this is also a issue for newer users of the clamp-on Granberg style file guides (although, those allow adjustment of file height once attached). The Timberline almost 'self-centers' on new, or very good condition chain, but would be more difficult to position on heavily worn chain, especially if previously ground / filed with too much hook, or overly deep gullets. Again - appears better for maintaining chain, rather than restoring it.
Use
It may be obvious, but the Timberline has to be mounted on the right bar. I used it on spare guide bars held in a bench vise, like I do with the Granberg type file guides. The chain stop / dog holds the cutters steady in the forward / backward direction, but the side clamp does not hold them securely side-to-side, unless in the proper gauge bar groove. Not an issue if you sharpen on the saw.
Cutter care also appears to be important. The cutters that came with this unit (had been passed around a bit?) were a bit rough, which left a bit of a rough finish. I kept an old toothbrush next to the unit, and brushed the spiral cutters clean after every few teeth. I think that the comments about using a drop or two of cutting oil, and taking light passes, would really help the longevity of the carbide cutters. Spare cutters would be a good investment.
It is quiet, and makes little mess (the sharp filings noted don't get thrown around like grinding dust) which makes it nice for indoor use, as well as for field touch ups.
The fixed settings are a double-edged sword (no pun intended). They provide users with consistent angles, but allow no flexibility. This will appeal to some users, and frustrate others.
Overall
A nice little device that will appeal to some, especially those satisfied with default angles, who want to touch up edges consistently, and who are not comfortable or confident with their filing skills. It is compact, and easy to pack into the field. The proprietary cutters are a bit of a concern, compared to conventional chain files, but not a problem as long as the manufacturer stays in business.
Would I use one? Sure - if that was what was available. Going back and forth between different file guides and sharpening methods can be challenging, because the angles are usually slightly different, and as noted, the Timberline appears best when touching up identical angles, rather than redefining them. So that could be an issue with chains sharpened with other methods. With some file guides and grinders (but not all) it is possible to adjust to match the existing angles - a nice feature to have.
Would I buy one? Probably not (unless I ran across one pretty cheap for show-and-tell purposes). I have other methods that meet my needs, and I like files that are inexpensive and readily available. But it could be a good choice for other users.
Thank you the the opportunity to try it!
Philbert
Thanks to a very patient member and his generosity, I was finally able to try the Timberline sharpener. My impressions generally track with the 38 pages (!) of this thread, and some related threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/timberline-chainsaw-sharpeners.191747/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpening-tool.237082/
First, start with Philbert's general rule of chain sharpening: "Everybody has to find something that works for them."
General Impressions
The Timberline is pretty simple to use, but not obvious. The YouTube video really helped me to understand how to set it up, especially for the first time, and the comments in this thread from users were also very helpful. The unit I received did not come with any printed instructions, so I can't comment on those. Like any other sharpening device or method, I am sure that users get better, and more efficient, with practice.
This device appears to be best suited for 'touch-up' sharpening: restoring edges dulled from normal use and wear, rather than those damaged from hitting rocks or other hazards. Several users noted taking just a little off at a time, which is appropriate for this application. In fairness, I would still want to use a full-sized chain grinder to restore rocked chains, so that does not make the Timberline much different from any file guide in that respect.
Setting the height of the Timberline on the guide bar appears to be key; this is also a issue for newer users of the clamp-on Granberg style file guides (although, those allow adjustment of file height once attached). The Timberline almost 'self-centers' on new, or very good condition chain, but would be more difficult to position on heavily worn chain, especially if previously ground / filed with too much hook, or overly deep gullets. Again - appears better for maintaining chain, rather than restoring it.
Use
It may be obvious, but the Timberline has to be mounted on the right bar. I used it on spare guide bars held in a bench vise, like I do with the Granberg type file guides. The chain stop / dog holds the cutters steady in the forward / backward direction, but the side clamp does not hold them securely side-to-side, unless in the proper gauge bar groove. Not an issue if you sharpen on the saw.
Cutter care also appears to be important. The cutters that came with this unit (had been passed around a bit?) were a bit rough, which left a bit of a rough finish. I kept an old toothbrush next to the unit, and brushed the spiral cutters clean after every few teeth. I think that the comments about using a drop or two of cutting oil, and taking light passes, would really help the longevity of the carbide cutters. Spare cutters would be a good investment.
It is quiet, and makes little mess (the sharp filings noted don't get thrown around like grinding dust) which makes it nice for indoor use, as well as for field touch ups.
The fixed settings are a double-edged sword (no pun intended). They provide users with consistent angles, but allow no flexibility. This will appeal to some users, and frustrate others.
Overall
A nice little device that will appeal to some, especially those satisfied with default angles, who want to touch up edges consistently, and who are not comfortable or confident with their filing skills. It is compact, and easy to pack into the field. The proprietary cutters are a bit of a concern, compared to conventional chain files, but not a problem as long as the manufacturer stays in business.
Would I use one? Sure - if that was what was available. Going back and forth between different file guides and sharpening methods can be challenging, because the angles are usually slightly different, and as noted, the Timberline appears best when touching up identical angles, rather than redefining them. So that could be an issue with chains sharpened with other methods. With some file guides and grinders (but not all) it is possible to adjust to match the existing angles - a nice feature to have.
Would I buy one? Probably not (unless I ran across one pretty cheap for show-and-tell purposes). I have other methods that meet my needs, and I like files that are inexpensive and readily available. But it could be a good choice for other users.
Thank you the the opportunity to try it!
Philbert
nice post with great photos, philbert. and, you're right. the timberline works best as a maintenance tool, keeping the razor edge on an undamaged chain, just like a file. it has a few advantages over a file. it produces repeatable results. files are fine if you don't have anything better, but not one in a thousand hombres has the skill to properly sharpen a chain with a file. ever notice the lack of photos of a well filed chain. that's because they are so rare. the timberline can repair a damaged chain if you are patient enuff, faster than filing, but a grinder is best. also, there's one thing that you forgot in your excellent post, a video of the sharpened chain cutting. there are a precious few hombres that can produce superior result filing a round ground chain. truth is, i haven't found one yet.
i seldom damage a chain. when i do i grind it back with an oregon grinder. mostly i just use my timberline to keep it throwing wheaties while my compadres are making corn meal.
Jon9sered
ArboristSite Lurker
Its the best filing system I've seen, it does require more attention - height etc and the stops (that hold the tooth) have to be used correctly - there are 2 and one - the one for the side not being filed has to be flicked up or else the file will take a chunk out of it.
I would say it produces a chain 10 % sharper than the standard old guide with file attached, its not as quick but its a great piece of kit. There is nothing like a super sharp chain ... less effort, less work, easy on gear.
I would say it produces a chain 10 % sharper than the standard old guide with file attached, its not as quick but its a great piece of kit. There is nothing like a super sharp chain ... less effort, less work, easy on gear.
CabinFever
ArboristSite Lurker
I am interested in using the TL Sharpener off the chainsaw and have a couple questions.
Have others used the TL Sharpener on a loose chain riding in a spare bar similar to the method @Philbert did in his photo below? Were you successful? Or, was the chain too sloppy from side-to side?
@Homelite410, where did you get the chain clamp in the photo below. Did you purchase it or make it? Does anyone know where I can get something like this?
Thanks!
Have others used the TL Sharpener on a loose chain riding in a spare bar similar to the method @Philbert did in his photo below? Were you successful? Or, was the chain too sloppy from side-to side?
@Homelite410, where did you get the chain clamp in the photo below. Did you purchase it or make it? Does anyone know where I can get something like this?
Thanks!
Jon9sered
ArboristSite Lurker
I am interested in using the TL Sharpener off the chainsaw and have a couple questions.
Have others used the TL Sharpener on a loose chain riding in a spare bar similar to the method @Philbert did in his photo below? Were you successful? Or, was the chain too sloppy from side-to side?
@Homelite410, where did you get the chain clamp in the photo below. Did you purchase it or make it? Does anyone know where I can get something like this?
Thanks!
Jon9sered
ArboristSite Lurker
IMO ..You don't need this rig, just leave the chain on your saw ... keep the chain tight and put the brake on and put it in a vice. Sorted.
CabinFever
ArboristSite Lurker
Agreed, but I have about 10 chains that are usually off the saws and kept in reserve for a quick swap out as needed. I really don't want to hassle putting them on the saw, then sharpening, then taking the sharpened chain back off the saw. If I had only one chain per saw, I would sharpen them on the saw.
