New chainsaw / Good used chainsaw?

[Wood Doctor]

Thanks for the suggestion; I'll take a look at that. I have a new bar on the Stihl, so I wouldn't think that's a problem there, but maybe the Echo. Speaking of bars, what brands are a good value, considering moderate use? Are there one's to avoid?
'Wood Doctor' posted earlier about using an adapter to mount Stihl bars on the Echo. Why would you want to do that? Are Stihl bars really great, or is it just the advantage of compatibility with other saws?

My supply of Stihl bars is extensive. It seemed pointless to buy more bars if the simple adapter for the Echo worked. It does and the oiler hole lines up.

I do like Stihl bars and a logger friend has given me several that he thinks are worn out. I fix them and they all work. Most of the time all they need is a new sprocket tip, the burrs filed off, and the rails evened up. Sometimes I sell them for half the price of a new one. A new 30" Stihl bar with sales tax runs about $100.

 

[Bg357]

My supply of Stihl bars is extensive. It seemed pointless to buy more bars if the simple adapter for the Echo worked. It does and the oiler hole lines up.

I do like Stihl bars and a logger friend has given me several that he thinks are worn out. I fix them and they all work. Most of the time all they need is a new sprocket tip, the burrs filed off, and the rails evened up. Sometimes I sell them for half the price of a new one. A new 30" Stihl bar with sales tax runs about $100.

Where do you get this adapter, and what does it cost? That might be a good idea since I have 3 stihl bars. Not sure if they're any good, but that's a new problem I'll have to figure out...

 

[Husky Man]

Your bars are shot. Wiggle the chain in the slot. See how they move side to side. Not good and they will either cut a circle or stop half way through. The rails may be uneven also and that only makes things worse.

Dayum Mike, ya beat me to, Great Minds think alike and all, ya know


Doug

 

[rupedoggy]

Well Doug you might suggest that he possibly has the wrong gauge. He might not know about that.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Where do you get this adapter, and what does it cost? That might be a good idea since I have 3 stihl bars. Not sure if they're any good, but that's a new problem I'll have to figure out...

Believe it or not, I think Bailey's has them. However, I made mine in my shop using hardwood. Strap metal could also be used, about 3/32" thick:

 

[Bg357]

Well Doug you might suggest that he possibly has the wrong gauge. He might not know about that.

I'm a little more with it than that...
I made sure to get the right gauge chain, and I replaced the drive sprocket.

 

[chainsawchap]

Want to sell the Echo?

learning about some saws you had very cool

 

[Remle]

I have a question that I’ve been mulling for awhile...
I read people on the forums complaining about the new saws with their electronics and EPA requirements and so forth, and it makes ya think you shouldn’t buy a new saw, because they’re a pain, hard to work on, etc... not to mention the expense of a new saw that’s worth having.

On the other hand, buying a used saw is whole other barrel of problems. So I’m wondering, what would y’all recommend to a relative novice, who doesn’t want to have to rebuild/tinker with an old saw, but really doesn’t want to spend $5-700 on a new saw.

So far, I’ve gone the used route, and it hasn’t gone that swell, although I haven’t spent a lot of money either. I started with an old Husky 61 that had problems. I now have a Stihl 026 and an Echo CS670. I use the Stihl almost exclusively, but it’s not right. My Dad’s Husky 455 will cut circles around it all day long. I’m not a saw mechanic, and don’t want to waste money having someone else work on it. The Echo starts easy and runs great, but just won’t cut. I think it may have an oiler problem, but again, I’m not sure.

I’m not asking for help troubleshooting my saws, just looking for opinions on used saws vs. new saws. Should I bite the bullet and buy a new saw, keep looking for an older/simpler saw in good condition, or spend the money to fix what I have?

If it plays into your answer, I cut a few cord a year, less than five. Cutting Red Fir, Tamarack, Lodgepole, from the smallest up to an occasional 30” tree. Thanks for the advice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bottom line is chainsaws are a very high maintenance tool. If you want one that just runs when you want it to and doesn’t need anything more than sharpening, I’d go with a cordless electric.

If you don’t want to tinker or repair a saw and you don’t want to spend $500+, then you’re going to be looking at smaller saws and homeowner grade saws. I understand the Makitas are pretty good for the price.

 

[chainsawchap]

I scored a echo cs 5500 from rmh I enjoy the saw it rips for a home grade saw I like any saw I can get my hands on the poulan wood sharks have me stumped