"new" HD oiler for 650's 660's

[gemniii]

Well I've been complaining about the oilers on my 660's and it looks like something was done about it in 2009.

See PDF

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159609&d=1290865359

I'm just surprised when I called all my local dealers (even THALL!) they didn't know much about it at the start, at least THALL came thru for me and he got me two for a fair price.

 

[mtngun]

Why do you need an oiler for a milling saw ? The aux does 90% of the oiling. The only reason I bother filling the saw's oiler is to prevent the pump from being damaged from running without lube.

 

[mtngun]

A high-output oiler has been available for the 066 for a long time. It's standard equipment on Aussie saws, special order only in the U.S..

Lakeside wrote it up in 2006. First in a series of three threads

 

[820wards]

Why do you need an oiler for a milling saw ? The aux does 90% of the oiling. The only reason I bother filling the saw's oiler is to prevent the pump from being damaged from running without lube.

Ditto MtnGun,

I had a problem with the seal in my manual oilier one day and was able to finish my milling just using the aux oilier.

jerry-

 

[BobL]

Going from the 076, which has a max oil delivery rate of 19 ml/min, to the 880 (38 ml/min) didn't seem to make much difference in terms of oil on the cutting side of the bar. The 880 just seems to have a lot more oil dripping off at the nose. With the 3120 (54 ml/min) I use down at Sandi and Hud's the oil is fairly pouring off the nose. I think these higher flow rates were designed to protect bar noses when they are buried deep in wood but I don't know how much they really help when milling.

 

[gemniii]

I also use my saws for crosscutting, and w/ my 28" bar on my Stihl it often was rather dry. I know they have been available all along and have been what was shipped to Australia all the time (since I've got two waiting to be picked up) but to me the point was that it looks like Stihl may be going back to a higher delivery rate.

Now what IF the chain and bar was designed such that there was more than enough oil to make it all the way around a long bar and thru the cut. And it was proven there was no need for an aux. oiler. Would you be running an aux. oiler out there just for the added weight? My JD CS62 operates that way with a 28" bar on 14" wood. I have to turn the oiler down from max a little or it gets stuff "wet". I was initially concerned about not enough oil getting all around the bar, but after stopping the saw the chain still felt "oily" on the return.

I'm looking for the end result, standing trees transformed into 1" and thicker lumber.

I realize Bob thinks heavier is better, and mtngun drives his truck to the log, but for my applications I'm planning on carrying my equipment thru the woods for a ways. Added mass and complexity do not make the mill better by themselves, but rather for the reliability of the equipment and the cut.

If bars and chains were designed frictionless and never needing sharpening wouldn't that be better?

I would actually prefer if I could somehow teach myself to reliably cut 1" thick, 2' wide, 10' long planks freehand. But I don't see that happening.

Or while I'm in my 3 a.m. (0800 Zulu) musings, why not a vibratory light saw that just splits the wood apart like a light saber and runs on good thoughts?

 

[mtngun]

I also use my saws for crosscutting, and w/ my 28" bar on my Stihl it often was rather dry.

I didn't notice a problem crosscutting with a 36" bar. With a 24" bar, oiler output was quite satisfactory. Realistically, the only time I use the 066 for crosscutting is to break in a new engine. I have other saws that are better suited for bucking and felling.

I'm looking for the end result, standing trees transformed into 1" and thicker lumber.

That's what this forum is about, and if you notice, all the experienced CSM'ers here are using an aux oiler. It's much more efficient because it puts the oil where it is needed, instead of flinging it off the nose.

mtngun drives his truck to the log

Dude, I have posted many pics of milling in the woods, in steep terrain, and having to lug gear and boards up and down hills. A plastic aux oiler weighs perhaps one pound. It's well worth it because it increases cutting speed and the saw doesn't work as hard.

Bottom line, the aux lets the saw rev up to 500 rpm faster in wider cuts. When the aux plugs up, or if I forget to turn it on, the saw quickly reminds me by cutting slower and working harder.

On the other hand, there have been a few times when I let the saw's oil tank run dry (not recommended, because the oiler maybe be damaged if run dry) and I never noticed a difference in the CSM performance.

 

[DRB]

gemniii

I have been running a 36" stihl bar with Oregon RD75 chain on an 088 for a few years now with out an aux. oiller. I have not noticed any unusual amount of wear on the chain or bar. Matter of fact I rarely even need to tighten the chain so I figure it must be getting enough oil. I don't cut hard woods but dry doug fir is fairly hard and dusty sometimes the chain looks dry but when you look at the drivers and the bar groove there is always oil there. I don't see the point of adding extra oil just because. If the chains not stretching, the bars not wearing and the roller tip is not over heating all is good IMO.

mtngun quote "Bottom line, the aux lets the saw rev up to 500 rpm faster in wider cuts. When the aux plugs up, or if I forget to turn it on, the saw quickly reminds me by cutting slower and working harder."

This is a good point I have not thought about. Although the 088 powers through most anything with a 36" bar.

Hope this helps your quest for no aux. oiller?