New log splitter

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Guys,
There is a lot of fancy calculations in this post. I've had the opportunity to use alot of the splitters out there. I bought the TW5 from Timberwolf. You will never look back. This splitter is incredible. Its not even their biggest. Is it expensive? Yes. However, if you want to do firewood seriously and not as a hobby (30+ cords yr). Then don't screw around in your shop building machines that you will outgrow in a couple of yrs. Get out in the woods split firewood and make money.

John D.
 
Oh and yes the 3 gal tank per 1 gpm rating are correct. Though this is used mainly for fixed station hydraulic systems such as those found in manufacturing plants. Also to need 3 gal tank per gpm you would also need to run the run it fairly continuously. If you have a fixed hydraulic system but it runs sporadic and rarely more than 20 minutes at a stretch then much less is fine. As far as log splitters go, I would just do a tank equal to gpms. More is prefferable but less will even work fine since the air circulates much better outside.
 
woodho LOL if I had a splitter that split that much wood I would have Kansas clearcut in 2 or 3 years. My need's are not that great but thats not to say my splitter won't be a great splitter and I get a kick out of screwing around in the shop and some other places also. :p
 
TreeCo said:
I'm looking for a valve that once started by hand completes one whole cycle and is ready for the next log.

Look at the Prince valve RD5200
http://www.princehyd.com/products/product.asp?gcode=stvm
“AUTO-CYCLE” TWO SPOOL VALVE
This valve is a modified RD-5200 two spool valve that can be used to automatically cycle a hydraulic cylinder. The spools and the valve body have been modified to provide this function. Both spools have the pressure release detent spool attachment. The “B” port is connected to the base of the cylinder. The “A” and “D” ports are tied together and connected to the rod end of the cylinder. The “C” port is plugged. At the beginning of the cycle the cylinder is fully retracted. To begin the cycle both handles are pulled back. Oil is directed to the “B” port and the cylinder will extend until it reaches the end of its stroke. At this point the pressure will build to the detent release pressure and the first spool will center to neutral. Now the oil will go through the open center core to the second spool and is directed out the “D” port to retract the cylinder. When the cylinder reaches the full retract position the pressure will build to the detent release pressure and the second spool will center to neutral. This completes the cycle. To begin the next cycle both handles are again manually pulled back. Please note this valve does not have the loadcheck feature of the standard RD5200 valve. Also the “B” port is open to tank in neutral.

In the Auto-Cyle manual page 6 shows an example of how it would be piped.
 
wow thats alot of great information you guys gave out that will help alot.eric-271 the cylinder does have 3/4 inch fittings.what is the minimum horse power for a 22gpm pump with my cylinder?thanks guys keep writing!!
 
silent elk that is a great description for hyd keep it up i am learning so much for all of you what a site i just love it! :blob2:
 
Rayco splitter

The local Rayco rep stopped by my place the other day and gave me their booklet with the LS 2526 Log Splitter. I think this is the one that the thread originally asked about, costwise and so forth. This machine runs between $5000-$6000, closer to the latter.
 
bobcatman It's been a while since I looked but I think 10 hp is on the small side to run the 22gpm two stage and a 13 or 14 hp engine should run it with out taxing the engine. Dont short change your cylinder with a control valve that has half inch ports. The control valve that ray has a link to would be a good choice. I bought my control valve with the 3/4 inch ports through northern but it does not feed auto either direction but I do prefer it over the other.
 
control valve

eric_271 said:
bobcatman It's been a while since I looked but I think 10 hp is on the small side to run the 22gpm two stage and a 13 or 14 hp engine should run it with out taxing the engine. Dont short change your cylinder with a control valve that has half inch ports. The control valve that ray has a link to would be a good choice. I bought my control valve with the 3/4 inch ports through northern but it does not feed auto either direction but I do prefer it over the other.
eric_271 i found this valve how would this work?http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...y?xsell=1057&storeId=6970&productId=472&R=472
 
Here is a rough idea what kind of cycle times 22 gpm will give on a 4 " bore cylinder. Unless you are going to go to a multiple split wedge, I dont think you will ever need larger. The slower cycle time of the larger cylinder would more often be a negative than the odd time you need that power. Here I am stacking blocks. An auto feed would be nice sometimes but it is some hazard too. Power here is a 530 case bachoe, dipper circuit valve, about 45 hp so a two stage pump is not needed.
 
nice video (crofter)

Crofter said:
Here is a rough idea what kind of cycle times 22 gpm will give on a 4 " bore cylinder. Unless you are going to go to a multiple split wedge, I dont think you will ever need larger. The slower cycle time of the larger cylinder would more often be a negative than the odd time you need that power. Here I am stacking blocks. An auto feed would be nice sometimes but it is some hazard too. Power here is a 530 case bachoe, dipper circuit valve, about 45 hp so a two stage pump is not needed.
i like the video could you take video of the rest of the splitter so i can get some more ideas! :) :)
 
smaller cylinder update

guys i found a different cylinder.here are the specs i found for this cylinder the piston is 2.994 inches the rod is 1.760 inches the rod will extend 26 inches .now with this cylinder what do i need for a pump (gpm) and will a 8 horse work? thanks for all the great reading.if i did cut and split for a living i would look at the tw5 but i only split for my own use and help a few of my friends.:blob2:
 
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bobcatman I ran a 16 gpm on my old splitter with 4 or 4 1/2 inch cylinder and it ran as fast as I wanted it to. My 5 inch will run as fast but thats because of the larger pump and the 3/4 inch ports on the cylinder and control valve. The 8 hp will run the 16 gpm pump just fine.
 
An 8 horse wont make a fast splitter. Smaller bores at higher pressure will work, but higher pressure pumps are more expensive and high pressure hose also > expensive. With any of the smaller than 10 horse motors a dual stage pump is a must or else they have to be geared or pump sized such that they are painfully slow. Pretty well covered earlier in the thread. There are no free lunches and everything is a tradeoff. Copy a proven slide design if you are building. That is a weak spot and I have seen some that would jamb and bind under load or pull apart. Below is a pic of the Rube Goldberg handle I rigged to reaach the controll valve. Next year I plan to install quick connects and put a didicated control valve on the splitter as well as wheels and a hitch. This was just a quick and dirty solution.
 
great advice (eric_271)

the cylinder has 3/4 inch fittings but the port holes are 1/2 inch according to the print i found on the cylinder what will this do if anything?thanks again guys i am learning as much as i can before i start the project.i also had a wedge made out of a piece of 1 x 8 bar stock i asked a friend to do it he said he has done several before and knows the perfect angle to bevel it at it will be 8 inches high to. :blob2:
 
LOL I guess my splitter was a freak of nature Frank and it did keep two guys hopping. I thought about using my bachoe but I dont want the extra hours on the engine or the cost for fuel just to split wood. There is way more then an 8 hp or a bachoe too makeing a wood splitter go fast. Its a combo of things. cylinder, pump, engine, port sizes on cylinder and control valve port size. Matched componets frank. ;)
 
bobcatman Those are 1/2 inch ports so the 22gpm might be overkill. The 16 gpm pump would prob be more inline. You also want to make sure your control valve can be adjusted on the by pass side to a high enough pressure to reach desired splitting pressure. If the pressure is lower then what the pump can produce and cant be adjusted up you will not get the full potential of the pump. Make sure the bypass valve can be adjusted up to match max working pressure of the pump.
 
And dual stage pump, right? Course we don't know how much it takes to keep you and your buddy hopping ! Lol! I agree with matching the components, and making a good compromise; still there are no free lunches. Someone mentioned using a 100 lb flywheel with a rather small enginge. That is an interesting concept to get around the tradeoff between stalling and ram speed.
 
Frank yes on the 2 stage pump. Now days just bending over to tie my shoes leaves me feeling like Ive been hopping. You know as well as I do more then any one thing gpm dictates the speed and the hp to make it happen. 16 gpm is not slow and granted it is not going to be as fast as your 30 or 40 gpm bachoe, not everyone is blessed with that kind of hp to run their splitter but remember SPEED KILLS. :p
 

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