New rope.......& New big shot

[Tom Dunlap]

There is an advantage to starting at the top. This won't be an advantage all of the time though. Balancs it out.

By starting at the top there is more mass left in the tree. By leaving that mass, when chunks get tipped off the spar, the spar doesn't get pushed back as much. The climber isn't as likely to get a whipper.

I know!!!! There are plenty of situations where the lower limbs get in the way and its sometimes hard to climb through the limbs. I've stripped sides of trees on the way up so that I have a drop slot. Other times I've thinned on the way up.

Since I SRT, this technique works out well. I climb to a point, throw in a lanyard, or two, whack and chop, then move up. Very quick and secured all of the time.

Tom

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by Tom Dunlap
There is an advantage to starting at the top. This won't be an advantage all of the time though. Balancs it out.

By starting at the top there is more mass left in the tree. By leaving that mass, when chunks get tipped off the spar, the spar doesn't get pushed back as much. The climber isn't as likely to get a whipper.

I know!!!! There are plenty of situations where the lower limbs get in the way and its sometimes hard to climb through the limbs. I've stripped sides of trees on the way up so that I have a drop slot. Other times I've thinned on the way up.

Since I SRT, this technique works out well. I climb to a point, throw in a lanyard, or two, whack and chop, then move up. Very quick and secured all of the time.

Tom

Glad you got in on this Tom.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by Tom Dunlap
By leaving that mass, when chunks get tipped off the spar, the spar doesn't get pushed back as much. The climber isn't as likely to get a whipper.

Mass damping is all fine and dandy, but you can eliminate the catapult effect by simply not leaving a beefy hinge. The beefy hinge is what bends the spar. My catapulting days were over the moment I discovered that.

Jerry B talks about it on pg 206 of his book.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

MB,

Getting away from Beefy Hinges, P. 297, TFGTW, is only part of the solution.

ALL tops will displace the top backwards. The amount of displacement is controlled a lot by the angle of the open face. Leaving a really wide open face will allow the top to move past horizontal before the wood breaks free. By keeping the top attached the butt force is pushed up into the air instead of deflecting the spar off its vertical axis.

A key thing to plan is a large, open face and a hinge that lets loose smoothly just as the face closes. If the top rips the hinge it will pull the top towards the face. Now you would have two forces, one in each direction. I think this can set up some whipping too.

The Beefy HInge won't let the top seperate smoothly. Like Jerry writes, When cutting out heavy tops it's automatic." He also writes, "
,,,you can control the action by how much wood you leave..." Note, he says, "Control" not eliminate.

Given equal setups, a tree with more limbs will move less than a spar. Even with well cut faces and back cuts. You can discuss the laws of physics but you can't argue with them.

Ton

 

[Lumberjack]

I cut the top where I can stand on a limb. I only cut the limbs that will mess up the top falling first, and then send the top out. After that, I repel down using the 8 and the backup and knock off limbs on the way down.

I just started doin this a coupla weeks ago, but it works well for me. I used to go from the bottom up, and still do on trees that require it, without spikes.

Normaly I might leave one stub if I need to pull my rope down after limbing it. Doin that, I repel DbRT and when I get to where I need to be, I pull the rope down and reattach it to the tree.

I cut the limbs off without standing on anything. The only time that I stand is when cutting out the top, or working down the spar (when I use spikes.. When I am comming down, I am on my rope, and my lanyard running the saw.

To me mass dampining is only one benifit. I like being able to be above the limbs instead of beside them. On jobs that don't require roping the limbs, I let the limbs fall free. If they get caught up on a lower limb then I keep working till I get to that limb and send all the tangled limbs down with it.

Altho I have yet to do it, I would also make a speed line super easy. Cut out the top and set the speed line. Attach the line so it is adjustable in length comming down from the speed line's line. Zip the pieces right to the trailer or chipper. When you are ready to through the spar, you already have the line set.

Mabey that clears it up a little

Carl :alien:

 

[MasterBlaster]

Carl, if you have a printer you outta save the post you just wrote and read it again in ten years.




Or, maybe even before then.

 

[Lumberjack]

Reread. I would add that I have the I'd on the way and it should be here Monday.


Carl

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by Lumberjack
Reread. I would add that I have the I'd on the way and it should be here Monday.


Carl

Nah, I'm serious. Archive it for you later.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by Lumberjack
Altho I have yet to do it, I would also make a speed line super easy. Cut out the top and set the speed line. Attach the line so it is adjustable in length comming down from the speed line's line. Zip the pieces right to the trailer or chipper. When you are ready to through the spar, you already have the line set.

Mabey that clears it up a little

Carl :alien:

Need an awfully long rope to speedline those lowest limbs with the speedline set at the top.

 

[treehugger01]

Reminds me of a ****y trap I once walked out on.Sound like you are making ****y traps and then clear them out. what fun! heh
I can see your technique sure ive put spikes on in the trees but the quicker i am on the ground the safer I am. By the time you get to the top with your acenders or whatever. I have limbed 1/2 up even roped them if I had to. Safe, cleane, and done. Nope I to used to leave stubbs, everytime something hangs and wham a ****y trap to be undone. How are you roping your tops other than speed linning. I cant see how the top would break all the banches on its way down.?

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by Rich Hoffman
Need an awfully long rope to speedline those lowest limbs with the speedline set at the top.

I was thinking of 2 ropes. One at the top, that would carry the weight, and another one comming down to the climber. It would make a T. That way the climber could pull more slack down and have the tag line right with him. Just an idea tho.

Carl

 

[MasterBlaster]

Speedlining starts at the bottom.

Like most TD's.

 

[treehugger01]

I wonder if lumberjack would trim a palm tree SRT?
pretty neat

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
You're on a roll tonight, Butch.

Brian, ROTFLMFAO!!!!

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by MasterBlaster
Speedlining starts at the bottom.

Like most TD's.

Only rule is there is an exception. If you go top down you aint gotta keep resetting the slide line every time you move up.

We aint got any Palms around here. What would you use? Spikes like normal from what I hear?

Carl

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Carl, unless I missed something, how are going to speedline with the branch 20 to 40 ft. from the speedline ???

 

[treehugger01]

pretty much my 136 husky is rated at about 60 40 foot palms a day. 60x 20 bucks a tree minus 25x2=$50 dump fee.

Is that BUTch
BUTcH HEEYYY MAN!

 

[MasterBlaster]

BRIAN!!!
WHATCHA DOING IMBEDDING IMAGES???











Get a cable modum?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I do the top down method quite frequently. I figured out mass dampening several years ago, then went to a conferance where they explained what was going on (Tom and I roomed together at that one in Sahvanah, GA)

I find spikes get in my way when not on a spar, so I'm one of those who will forgo them till it's time to block chunks. I've been doing it for years so i know it works for me.

If you think this methodology is slow, well just ask Gopher if Tom or I are dim whitted

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
I do the top down method quite frequently. I figured out mass dampening several years ago, then went to a conferance where they explained what was going on (Tom and I roomed together at that one in Sahvanah, GA)

I find spikes get in my way when not on a spar, so I'm one of those who will forgo them till it's time to block chunks. I've been doing it for years so i know it works for me.

If you think this methodology is slow, well just ask Gopher if Tom or I are dim whitted

Coming from you and Tom this is all credible!!!