New saw break in

[IchWarriorMkII]

I can't take the pressure any more, Im going in tomarrow and Im not leaving until I have a new saw under my arm... I've got some money from the Holidays that add up exactly to the sticker price on an MS361 at the local Stihl (kinda) dealer. It has to be a sign from above... has to be.

Anyways my current plan, aided very much from the esteemed Troll of Saws, is to break it in on regular mix (40:1) and trim up some smaller trees, giving it short bursts of full throttle, with just enough idle to get it warmed up.

For the first tank at least, I plan on running it long enough to get it hot then allow it to cool. And repeat. Is this neccessary?

Im all sorts of anxious, its my first stihl :taped: :rockn: :rockn:

 

[1wildthing]

I've never stopped after the motor is warm. If anything I think you are better to run the whole tank through. The engine is designed to run best at operating temp. By keeping it cold the whole time it will never really get to ideal conditions. And you will get a lot less work done. I would just try not to hold it at WOT for extended periods.

 

[NapalmDeath]

MS361, I'm jealous.:jawdrop:

 

[THALL10326]

I can't take the pressure any more, Im going in tomarrow and Im not leaving until I have a new saw under my arm... I've got some money from the Holidays that add up exactly to the sticker price on an MS361 at the local Stihl (kinda) dealer. It has to be a sign from above... has to be.

Anyways my current plan, aided very much from the esteemed Troll of Saws, is to break it in on regular mix (40:1) and trim up some smaller trees, giving it short bursts of full throttle, with just enough idle to get it warmed up.

For the first tank at least, I plan on running it long enough to get it hot then allow it to cool. And repeat. Is this neccessary?

Im all sorts of anxious, its my first stihl :taped: :rockn: :rockn:

No need for 40:1, the saw calls for 50:, use 50:1. Break in is simple, only run it wide open in the cut, not in your hand. All this break in talk is mostly general thought on what "would be" good for the saw verses is it really needed and the answer is no. If it was Stihl would tell you so. Ya can't break it in unless you run it so merely run it and the break in will occure on its own.

 

[Dan Forsh]

No need for 40:1, the saw calls for 50:, use 50:1. Break in is simple, only run it wide open in the cut, not in your hand. All this break in talk is mostly general thought on what "would be" good for the saw verses is it really needed and the answer is no. If it was Stihl would tell you so. Ya can't break it in unless you run it so merely run it and the break in will occure on its own.

I'm not a religious man but Amen

 

[mini kahuna]

during the first couple tanks don't bury the bar in full cuts and try not to let the saw free rev when coming out of the cut.
modern saws don't need an elaborate break-in,just take it a little easy the first day or so.

 

[Lakeside53]

No need for 40:1, the saw calls for 50:, use 50:1. Break in is simple, only run it wide open in the cut, not in your hand. All this break in talk is mostly general thought on what "would be" good for the saw verses is it really needed and the answer is no. If it was Stihl would tell you so. Ya can't break it in unless you run it so merely run it and the break in will occure on its own.

Yep. 89 octane or above though... Just use it..

 

[bigbadbob]

Just took out my new to me 034 at 8am today and cut about 15 cookies with it, full tilt new piston and rings 50:1 just too see the chips fly from a 30in pine. Nice saw, I must say.
Enjoy!!

 

[blis]

during the first couple tanks don't bury the bar in full cuts .......

That is so wrong, if you dont push your saw hard enough during break-in it will lack compression and power after break-in becouse the rings didnt have needed pressure to seat well to cylinder walls...

Just remember not to block a 100m tree on one go to prevent overheating, but otherwise full bar cuts are GOOD for saw...

 

[ericjeeper]

on my Dolmar 6400

I brought it home.. all shiney and new. It was full of fuel and oil from the dealer.. where he started it and said see it runs..
I pulled onto the farm where the loggers were taking a break. I showed it to Chet the owner of the logging co. he said does it have gas and oil it it? I said yeah its full.. so He proceeds to say."well lets go cut some timber with it and see what it is worth." so he fell and limbed up a nice walnut and then a cherry. and said it seems like a good one.
It is still getting stronger with every tank of fuel. I have ran around 6 gallons through it so far.
My theory on break in. Run it like you are going to use it.Not necasarily run it like you stole it..

 

[Canyon Angler]

I have ran around 6 gallons through it so far.

I am so...frickin...JEALOUS! :angry2:

Send some a that wood MY WAY!!!!

Jus' kiddin' ... enjoy! And be careful!

 

[SWE#Kipp]

That is so wrong, if you dont push your saw hard enough during break-in it will lack compression and power after break-in becouse the rings didnt have needed pressure to seat well to cylinder walls...

Just remember not to block a 100m tree on one go to prevent overheating, but otherwise full bar cuts are GOOD for saw...

Thats how I break them in too

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

I understand the concept of burying the bar, its what I do on dirt bike/snowmobile motors to break them in.... Allow the motor to pull through the RPM range and then engine brake back down to let the motor make as much compression as possible....

Thanks!

Ill go get to the breaking in

 

[SawBrian]

Every engine has its own characteristics, compression, porting, type of rings and pistons, nicasil - teflon, different tolerances.... thus different need for breakin.

From my experience. DONT bury or bog the saw in the wood or run it extremely hard during break in. I once did this with a new saw to check and it got wear on the piston and decreased power. Though I used only 2% synthetic oil and 1 turn out H and L pivot screws. DONT go with 24 bar and racechain on a 346 in large hardwood either.


But you surely dont have the time to baby it for two production days and less work done. So with a new chainsaw, use very sharp chain, add 4% of quality oil, increase H and L pilot screw to 1.25 out if possible and highen L for adequate idle rpm. If L and H are locked for epa regulations they are possibly only at 1 out at max or if you dont know go for 5% oil. You will not glaze it since you are not babying it.

This will get the saw much improved lubrication and you will always have a decent oilfilm thus prevent extensive wear and scuffing at normal sawing. Let it warm up for about 2 min in warm climate and about 3 minutes in cold climate. You should drive it at variable rpm, and not let it idle or run it extremely hard for extensive periods.

After 5-15 tanks go to normal for L and H screw and your default oil ratio.

One saw I did this to did ran very nicely at idling and acceleration. Almost as a car.

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Well, its good advice but just a little late:taped:

I ran it with normal pre-mix, gave the saw a good workout keeping my revs down outside the cut, full throttle cuts and put as much load on the engine as I could keeping it in good cutting RPM's.

Runs great now, leaned out a bit after break in, I fattened up the low speed jet a bit.

 

[sawinredneck]

I guess I aint right in the head. I buy a saw, fill it with MIX and bar oil, walk into the woods and start cutting trees down with it. Never really paid much attention to breaking one in, I was always more worried about pinching the bar, or dropping a tree on it! I figure I dropp a tree on it, then it's good and broken in then!
If it doesnt run to my likeing, I mod the muffler, if I still don't like it, then I go deeper, if I still don't like it, I sell it and buy another one!
Run that sucker like it was meant to, put it in some wood, if it blows up, it's under waranty!!!!

GO CUT SOME WOOD!!!!
YAY!!!!!

 

[Dubai Vol]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[SawBrian]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This DOES NOT applies to chainsaws. Relative torque under normal use is tenfold on a chainsaw compared to a motorcycle under normal use.

By the way this idiot is a big sucker like many other crazy americans, he reminds me of these truly secteric halleluja guys..

 

[THALL10326]

I guess I aint right in the head. I buy a saw, fill it with MIX and bar oil, walk into the woods and start cutting trees down with it. Never really paid much attention to breaking one in, I was always more worried about pinching the bar, or dropping a tree on it! I figure I dropp a tree on it, then it's good and broken in then!
If it doesnt run to my likeing, I mod the muffler, if I still don't like it, then I go deeper, if I still don't like it, I sell it and buy another one!
Run that sucker like it was meant to, put it in some wood, if it blows up, it's under waranty!!!!

GO CUT SOME WOOD!!!!
YAY!!!!!

Good post there Brother Andrew. Breaking in a saw is merely sawing wood and not much else. I put a new jug and piston on a 011AVT today and I broke it in exactly like your saying. I took the little huzzy out to the log and sawed with it. Far as I'm concerned what else is there to do with a running chainsaw other than saw with it. Good post ole boy, I like your way of thinking.

 

[SawBrian]

I guess I aint right in the head. I buy a saw, fill it with MIX and bar oil, walk into the woods and start cutting trees down with it. Never really paid much attention to breaking one in, I was always more worried about pinching the bar, or dropping a tree on it! I figure I dropp a tree on it, then it's good and broken in then!
If it doesnt run to my likeing, I mod the muffler, if I still don't like it, then I go deeper, if I still don't like it, I sell it and buy another one!
Run that sucker like it was meant to, put it in some wood, if it blows up, it's under waranty!!!!

GO CUT SOME WOOD!!!!
YAY!!!!!

Adding more oil in the first jug of gas will take few seconds, and will secure a better and finer break-in.