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wildnorthern

ArboristSite Member
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Location
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I know this has been covered before, I have been reading pages of old threads from searches but I will feel more comfortable about my choice if I ask. (glad I found this site as I know nothing about saws)

This will be my first saw. Will use it for clearning 4 wheeler trails, down trees and firewood. I am smaller build guy so don't want anything huge for a saw and probably don't need a big saw. My dad will use it as well who currently has a 03? farmboss (but it is at a cabin 4 hours away). My dad is a stihl fan as that is what is most readily available in southern wi and my buddies in northern wi are husqvarna fans as they cut timber for a living in the winter while laid off from construction.

Looking at the 353, 346xp and ms 260 pro. I understand they are all good saws and will all do the job. Is there anything that seperates these saws?

I read the post where the 353 was recommended over the 346 for a person new to chainsaws so maybe I should rule out the 346xp?

Are there any things that make these saws safer then one another? I am cautiously paranoid about kickback and not sure what else can be a hazard.

Sorry for asking this question for the umteenth time. I just want to be sure I make the right decision. (servicing a saw isn't an issue as I live central part of state and there are local dealers of each)

Thanks for any and all help!
 
Some words of wisdom

I can't help you out on your saw selection. I have a couple of Shindaiwa saws and for home owner use I don't know if the other brands are better. My 488 is lightweight, has plenty of power, and starts easily.
There are a few things I would suggest you invest in if you are going to start using a chainsaw. A good set of safety chaps and a chainsaw helmet should be worn at all times when operating a saw. A good heavy pair of boots are also recommended. I would also suggest a good pair of gloves.

I was once cutting some small alders down on my property and neglected to put on a hard hat. A very small branch came out of one of the trees and hit me point first on the top of the head and about put me on my knees. It hurt like heck and the branch probably didn't weigh more than a pound, so I shudder to think what something larger would have done.

Despite my best intentions, I have had a couple of kickback incidents with no damage, but I'm more cautious now after years of experience than I was in the blissfully ignorant beginning.

I'm sure others can give you advise on which saw to purchase so I'll leave that to the experts.

Good luck!!
 
wildnorthern said:
I know this has been covered before, I have been reading pages of old threads from searches but I will feel more comfortable about my choice if I ask. (glad I found this site as I know nothing about saws)

This will be my first saw. Will use it for clearning 4 wheeler trails, down trees and firewood. I am smaller build guy so don't want anything huge for a saw and probably don't need a big saw. My dad will use it as well who currently has a 03? farmboss (but it is at a cabin 4 hours away). My dad is a stihl fan as that is what is most readily available in southern wi and my buddies in northern wi are husqvarna fans as they cut timber for a living in the winter while laid off from construction.

Looking at the 353, 346xp and ms 260 pro. I understand they are all good saws and will all do the job. Is there anything that seperates these saws?

I read the post where the 353 was recommended over the 346 for a person new to chainsaws so maybe I should rule out the 346xp?

Are there any things that make these saws safer then one another? I am cautiously paranoid about kickback and not sure what else can be a hazard.

Sorry for asking this question for the umteenth time. I just want to be sure I make the right decision. (servicing a saw isn't an issue as I live central part of state and there are local dealers of each)

Thanks for any and all help!
Any of the saws you listed are excellent. If you have a safe technique, you will rarely if ever activate your chain brake. If I had to choose, I would go with the MS260 Pro. Cheers.
 
They are all good saws. The only thing that would make one any safer than the other would be the type of bar and chain you run. Yes, the 353 has a wider, more forgiving powerband than the 346xp but the 346 has a higher peak power. Judging from your post, dealer support is important to you. If you have a dolmar dealer nearby, the new ps-5100s blows them all away power wise at about the same weight and less $$ (the 353 might be a bit cheaper).
 
wildnorthern said:
I

Are there any things that make these saws safer then one another? I am cautiously paranoid about kickback and not sure what else can be a hazard.

Thanks for any and all help!

90% of safety is the saw's operator.

1. Always practice safe cutting techniques and plan every cut you make. Know your saw. Read the owners manual chapters on safey and saw operation. Go take the online OSHA logging advisor class - it's quite good.
2. Stop the job when fatigue sets in. Unless you're conditioned for this type of work, 1/2 day can be pretty exhausting work. Plan most of your cutting when you're fresh and alert.
3. Buying a chainsaw is only part of it. Make sure there's budget for safety chaps, steel toed boots, safety helmet w/hearing protectors.

The other 10% can be the saw. Chain brake and low kickback chain until you become more proficient. Don't start with too much saw for the job.
 
It depends wether you're a Stihl or Husky fan and also if you like the dealer in your area. I'll add one more piece of safety gear - hearing protection if it's not in the helmet. Don't cut when you're tired or when the saw starts throwing sawdust (time to sharpen the chain.)

I have dad's old 655 Mac I use for clearing deadfall from hiking trails. I took the dawgs off & put a 16" bar & chipper chain on it. Chipper chain won't cut quite as fast as chisel, but it'll stay sharper longer & I find it easier to field file. I think Carlton lists a .325 chipper chain. I can't justify a new saw for all I use it, but I liked the 353 at Commercial Cutters.
 
mbopp, what pitch chipper chain are you running on that PM655? 3/8 or .325? and also, where did ya get ahold of chipper chain?
 
Service doesn't matter, my father in law is a service manager that can get parts at wholesale or slightly more. He has offered to do any service to it.

What does a bigger power band 353 versus higher peak 346xp mean??? For safety and how they cut?

Which of the above 3 saws has the least vibration?
 
The 346XP has slightly more power than the 353, but it makes that power over a narrower range of RPM's. This makes it more sensitive to how sharp the chain is, and to how it is operated. Neither should be run with dull chain. If you use a heavy touch, the 346 will be more lightly to bog down and not cut well. The 353 is slightly less peaky and pulls reasonably over a wider RPM range, making it slightly less finicky to operate for someone not familiar with chainsaws. The 260 is similar to the 346, but slightly more forgiving of lugging the engine down.
The spring anti-vibe on the Husky saws will give you lower vibration that the rubber mounts of the Stihl.
As for safety differences between the saws, the chain/bar combo is the only significant variable that could really impact that. Since this is your first saw, you would be best to wait a little before outfitting it withan agressive chisel chain. Once you get some run time, go ahead.
How you operate it, and the safety gear you wear whenever you run it, without exception, will be the real determining factors. Get some training in safe cutting procedures, even if it is from online and the dealer. Follow it, think about what you are doing, and you will be fine.
 
So bottomline, the 353 and the ms260pro are a horse a piece except the 353 will have less vibration?

What is the cost difference?

Does one come from the factory with the bar and chain that would be good for me to start with?
 
Depends upon where you are buying as to the cost. Buying online, you can get the 353 much cheaper than the 260. This is because Stihl are only allowed to be sold new through a dealer, to a customer in his shop, not online. Husky does not have this policy, so the online sellers prices are a bit lower. You can normally get them set up with a suitable bar and chain, both length and chain type. If you tell your dealer you have never run a saw before, he will most likely set it up with a suitable chain. Also, in the U.S., all saws less than 62cc are supposed to be fitted with low kickback chain from the dealer when new so this should be what you are set up with.
You can also get them online with a powerhead only, and select the bar and chain as you wish to equip it. This would allow you to put on a lower kickback setup as well when you pick out your cutting attachment.
 
All those named are totally suitable.My 346 pulls an 18''bar and a Stihl RS chain with no problems.I would recommend it or the 260 Stihl without any further thought.A little more saw is the way to go than what you think you need so you dont do what I have done,Buy a bunch of lesser saws to discover that you wish you had more power than you have got.Protective gear is a necessity,especially chaps or pants,more so when the terrain is slick or snowy,and the potential for slips is greater.
 
I'm surprised no one's mentioned them before. Second only to your brain, safety glasses are probably the most important piece of PPE to use.

I've had very little trigger time on the 260, even less on the 346, and none on the 353, so I won't even comment on the choice of saws.
 
You probably will not disapointed if you go with MS270 or MS280 too:)
Now Stihls US www shows them available without QCA, too, so you can save some money.
If you are not pro, I strongly recommend not to go with RS chain. I know that a lot of people rather "kill" me here for that, but RM, if you can get it, is much smoother and less dangerous!
 
wildnorthern said:
So bottomline, the 353 and the ms260pro are a horse a piece except the 353 will have less vibration?
That is about right, but the 353 also has a much better air filter system, but also about half a pound more weight.

wildnorthern said:
Does one come from the factory with the bar and chain that would be good for me to start with?
The Stihl will probably be equipped with the POS RM2 chain as standard, while the Husky probably will come with a narrow kerf bar and the excellent 95VP/H30 chain, but you may have other options depending on the dealer or his distributer.

The narrow kerf setup will probably cut fastest on both saws, and Stihl does not offer it.
It will be available aftermarket from Oregon and Carlton though.
 
Lawn Masters said:
mbopp, what pitch chipper chain are you running on that PM655? 3/8 or .325? and also, where did ya get ahold of chipper chain?

It's 3/8" on the Mac. I'm running Oregon 72DP semi-chisel round tooth, I bought a couple loops at Commercial Cutters. IIRR Carlton lists semi-chisel both in 3/8 and .325.

The 2 Macs I own have 3/8" sprocket noses on the bars, otherwise I'd try .325 on them.
 
wildnorthern said:
Is the husky chain as easy to tighten as the stihl?
It will be about the same except if the Stihl has the QCA feature.
The QCA makes the tightening prosess in the field a tad faster, but it also makes maintenance of the bar and cleaning the saw more time consuming and discurages flipping the bar.
Imo it is a :censored: PITA, all things considered.
 
Well it sounds like I can't go wrong with either saw. I guess I will let price be the deciding point. I know I can get the 353 husky for $358 which includes shipping on eby. Just need to get a price for the stihl. Kind of hoping the husky is cheaper.
 
wildnorthern said:
Well it sounds like I can't go wrong with either saw. I guess I will let price be the deciding point. I know I can get the 353 husky for $358 which includes shipping on eby. Just need to get a price for the stihl. Kind of hoping the husky is cheaper.

This probably sounds odd, but I chose a Stihl not because of the price but because of the feel and balance. I considered a Stihl MS361 and a Husky 357xp, both very good machines (I am doing slightly heavier work than clearing trails, I am just giving an example), the Husky was cheaper but the Stihl just felt better. Pick them up and if possible run them before making a decision.
 

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