New to all of this and need help !!

[dsell]

Look for lines or roughness. The piston and cylinder walls should be smooth like your first picture. I can't see in the second picture well enough to detect scoring.

 

[Joel Dixon]

Now, get some white paper or paper towels and lay the carb on it. Take it apart carefully. Don't shove a screwdriver under the covers to remove them or you will ruin the gasket surface. There is a little lever inside that has a spring under it. The assembly is probably held down with a screw. Don't loose the spring! Pay attention to the H screw and L screw, which goes where. Never tighten these screws or you will damage the seats in the carb and then it can't be repaired.

should I disassemble completely??

Now, get some white paper or paper towels and lay the carb on it. Take it apart carefully. Don't shove a screwdriver under the covers to remove them or you will ruin the gasket surface. There is a little lever inside that has a spring under it. The assembly is probably held down with a screw. Don't loose the spring! Pay attention to the H screw and L screw, which goes where. Never tighten these screws or you will damage the seats in the carb and then it can't be repaired.

this is what i have done so far where should i go from here

 

[dsell]

In the 3rd picture, there is a screw holding the rod that contains the metering lever and spring. Pay close attention to the height of the lever with a straight edge. It's connected to the inlet needle. Take that apart and don't loose the spring. To the right of that, there is a small screen and a check valve under it. Don't mess with this. You also have welch plugs that can be removed to gain access to small holes. I'd recommend leaving them alone on your first rebuild. The fourth picture shows the fuel pump side. There is a screen you can remove in the large hole. This is directly opposite the inlet needle and you should be able to see through the hole when the needle and screen are out. Then, do you chem-dip or ultrasonic cleaning. Blow it all out with compressed air and put in a new kit. Set the inlet lever to the factory spec. Lightly turn the H and L screw in, then out 1 to 1-1/4 turns.

 

[Joel Dixon]

In the 3rd picture, there is a screw holding the rod that contains the metering lever and spring. Pay close attention to the height of the lever with a straight edge. It's connected to the inlet needle. Take that apart and don't loose the spring. To the right of that, there is a small screen and a check valve under it. Don't mess with this. You also have welch plugs that can be removed to gain access to small holes. I'd recommend leaving them alone on your first rebuild. The fourth picture shows the fuel pump side. There is a screen you can remove in the large hole. This is directly opposite the inlet needle and you should be able to see through the hole when the needle and screen are out. Then, do you chem-dip or ultrasonic cleaning. Blow it all out with compressed air and put in a new kit. Set the inlet lever to the factory spec. Lightly turn the H and L screw in, then out 1 to 1-1/4 turns.

First of all thank you so much for your help, but another question, i have the inlet pin taken out aswell as the small spring , lever and rod assembly, but how do i get that big screen out of the fule pump side, i can see though the carb with the inlet pin taken out but how do i get that screen out?

 

[Joel Dixon]

In the 3rd picture, there is a screw holding the rod that contains the metering lever and spring. Pay close attention to the height of the lever with a straight edge. It's connected to the inlet needle. Take that apart and don't loose the spring. To the right of that, there is a small screen and a check valve under it. Don't mess with this. You also have welch plugs that can be removed to gain access to small holes. I'd recommend leaving them alone on your first rebuild. The fourth picture shows the fuel pump side. There is a screen you can remove in the large hole. This is directly opposite the inlet needle and you should be able to see through the hole when the needle and screen are out. Then, do you chem-dip or ultrasonic cleaning. Blow it all out with compressed air and put in a new kit. Set the inlet lever to the factory spec. Lightly turn the H and L screw in, then out 1 to 1-1/4 turns.

In the 3rd picture, there is a screw holding the rod that contains the metering lever and spring. Pay close attention to the height of the lever with a straight edge. It's connected to the inlet needle. Take that apart and don't loose the spring. To the right of that, there is a small screen and a check valve under it. Don't mess with this. You also have welch plugs that can be removed to gain access to small holes. I'd recommend leaving them alone on your first rebuild. The fourth picture shows the fuel pump side. There is a screen you can remove in the large hole. This is directly opposite the inlet needle and you should be able to see through the hole when the needle and screen are out. Then, do you chem-dip or ultrasonic cleaning. Blow it all out with compressed air and put in a new kit. Set the inlet lever to the factory spec. Lightly turn the H and L screw in, then out 1 to 1-1/4 turns.

okay so inlet screw is taken out, along with that assembly and i have the large screen taken out, is this carb ready for cleaning?

 

[DSS]

First of all thank you so much for your help, but another question, i have the inlet pin taken out aswell as the small spring , lever and rod assembly, but how do i get that big screen out of the fule pump side, i can see though the carb with the inlet pin taken out but how do i get that screen out?

Take a small pick and pop it out. Don't worry about damaging it, there's a new one in the kit you'll buy. Don't pry too deep and damage the carb though.

That's a Tillotson HU carb. There's no H screw, only an L.

 

[dsell]

It's ready for the cleaner.

 

[Joel Dixon]

Guys what is a H and L Screw and, Do i have to buy a carb kit? if these gaskets and stuff are not broken ? if so any idea where i can buy stuff like this??

 

[HarleyT]

Take a pic of your old gaskets and needle.


H and L refer to the fuel mixture adj. screws, the
L controls more on the low rpm range, and the H=high is more concerned with the high rpms, but they work
together, and must be adjusted together.

 

[Joel Dixon]

Take a pic of your old gaskets and needle.


H and L refer to the fuel mixture adj. screws, the
L controls more on the low rpm range, and the H=high is more concerned with the high rpms, but they work
together, and must be adjusted together.

I think these are the pictures you are looking for?? if not let me know and thank you so much

 

[Joel Dixon]

Well, get yourself an ice cube tray or egg carton to put pieces in when you disassemble anything. That will help you keep track of the order you took it apart.

The condition of the piston is a critical diagnosis aid on a chainsaw. Usually the piston can be viewed by removing the muffler. (and the carb to see the other side)

Fuel hoses and carburetor rubber parts tend to go bad and may be all that's wrong if the saw's been sitting.

Thanks for the ice cube tray idea, would be lost without it, or should i say the parts would be! haha

 

[HarleyT]

I'd get the kit, you need the needle for sure. Polish the seat with a q-tip and baking soda

 

[Joel Dixon]

I'd get the kit, you need the needle for sure. Polish the seat with a q-tip and baking soda

Polish the seat? The seat to what??

 

[HarleyT]

Where that needle rests on, that's what was filling your saw with fuel.

 

[Joel Dixon]

Where that needle rests on, that's what was filling your saw with fuel.

Will do, so let me get this straight, the saw takes mixed gass from the tank, runs it though the intake filter, up the gas line into the fuel pump side of the carb, then your throttle postilion, determines the amount of air that is getting through the carb, ?? is that right or am i off??

 

[Joel Dixon]

Also, what is this piece that the carb attaches too?? whats it purpose??

 

[HarleyT]

Here is a pic of how a carb works. The fuel pump side pumps fuel by using the "impulse" of the engine's
crankcase changing pressures, and the crankcase vacuum pulls air through the carb body, and fuel as it passes
through the carb. The air constriction {venture} causes the fuel to atomize as well.

 

[DSS]

Also, what is this piece that the carb attaches too?? whats it purpose??

That's the intake block. That little hole at the 11 o'clock position is the impulse passage. Air comes through there from the crankcase to the pump side of the carb to move the diaphragm and pull fuel out of the tank

 

[DSS]

Will do, so let me get this straight, the saw takes mixed gass from the tank, runs it though the intake filter, up the gas line into the fuel pump side of the carb, then your throttle postilion, determines the amount of air that is getting through the carb, ?? is that right or am i off??

That's basically correct, yes

 

[DSS]

Take a pic of your old gaskets and needle.


H and L refer to the fuel mixture adj. screws, the
L controls more on the low rpm range, and the H=high is more concerned with the high rpms, but they work
together, and must be adjusted together.

He doesn't have an H screw. That carb is fixed high side