Next chainsaw conundrum's.

[paperclips43@]

Looking for next saw. The town I live in the trees are small enough I use my two echo cs590s for almost everything. One has a 24 inch bar but every now and then I do need something bigger. I bought a gs660 because I figured I wouldn’t use it much and it was perfect and my saw collection was complete until it started just giving me problem after problem and now I can’t keep it running long enough to be helpful so I’ve accepted I need to get a husky or Stihl or something more reliable.

I’d like to spend the least amount possible since I only will using it maybe once or twice a month so used is probably fine. I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations and more importantly anything for sale. I’m not in any rush. I just don’t feel comfortable buying used from local markets as I don’t trust they were maintained as good as folks here would do.



Lastly how often should I be giving my 590 a break? Yesterday for instance as I was cutting a lot of bucking a lot of rounds that were 24-30 inches in diameter as well as having to cut unions up down the middle to fit them in the chipper.

I would run out of gas and fill it up and go back to cutting non stop. Should I be giving it a break every tank of gas or pause halfway through a non stop full throttle cut?

 

[cscltd]

If you can find a good hq 390/395 or ms660.
All with original cylinder kit or very least meteor piston

“Sharp” chain and proper fuel/mix shouldn’t be an issue, provided no running problems
Don’t let saw run out of gas if you can, idle for 30sec or so before and after cutting depending on outside temp.

 

[WoodmanSr]

Looking for next saw. The town I live in the trees are small enough I use my two echo cs590s for almost everything. One has a 24 inch bar but every now and then I do need something bigger. I bought a gs660 because I figured I wouldn’t use it much and it was perfect and my saw collection was complete until it started just giving me problem after problem and now I can’t keep it running long enough to be helpful so I’ve accepted I need to get a husky or Stihl or something more reliable.

I’d like to spend the least amount possible since I only will using it maybe once or twice a month so used is probably fine. I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations and more importantly anything for sale. I’m not in any rush. I just don’t feel comfortable buying used from local markets as I don’t trust they were maintained as good as folks here would do.



Lastly how often should I be giving my 590 a break? Yesterday for instance as I was cutting a lot of bucking a lot of rounds that were 24-30 inches in diameter as well as having to cut unions up down the middle to fit them in the chipper.

I would run out of gas and fill it up and go back to cutting non stop. Should I be giving it a break every tank of gas or pause halfway through a non stop full throttle cut?

If you can't come back to the job when cooler air temperature, then saw is going to run temp it does. Rotating saws with not change average running temp. Using 60cc saw within it's limits will pay dividends. Sharp chain, let the saw tell you what's too much & hold back accordingly. Go slower.

Be religious on maintenance & cleaning during use & post. Absolutely keep cylinder fins, air filter, & recoil/Ignition cavity clean. Fix what's showing any issue.

My feeling... what is appropriate breather for a hard worked saw. Eaze off in large blocking cuts, lift in kerf, & give saw a moment to 4-cycle, repeat 2-3 times in huge cuts.
Then, before big cuts, hoover over tree at moderate engine speed, gives the bar&chain an extra dose of lubrication, bit of air flow cooling to cylinder, typical healthy rich drink to crankcase & piston skirt, etc.

Just breakup the breathers of the log. And, don't run dry out of fuel. That's stress on the saw. Stop early. Hold saw a minute at idle to fast idle. Even feather the choke slightly to give saw a cool drink. Then shutdown & refuel.

 

[Michael E]

Rotating saws with not change average running temp. Using 60cc saw within it's limits will pay dividends. Sharp chain, let the saw tell you what's too much & hold back accordingly. Go slower.

Be religious on maintenance & cleaning during use & post. Absolutely keep cylinder fins, air filter, & recoil/Ignition cavity clean.

It doesn't matter what you do after the first tank, but what you do during that tank of gas. Don't abuse the saw, don't run a dull chain. After a long cut on full throttle, letting the saw idle actually brings the temperature down (because the fan is running).

Sorry to hear about your experience with the cheap saw. The argument "I don't use it often, so a cheap saw will do" doesn't work if the saw has lots of costly repairs or is useless for lack of reliability. Sometimes, the more expensive tool is the cheaper option. If you buy a used high quality saw, you will be able to sell it after some time with very little loss.

 

[paperclips43@]

Thanks so much! That was all really great advice. There may have been some stuff I did intuitively but it’s good to get confirmation what is good practice.
I definitely have been letting the saw run out of fuel so I’m glad I know now and I see how that is bad especially if it’s been running real hot as there is no fuel to cool it down.
Yeah the cheap gs660 I bought I just can’t get to run consistent. It’s possible it’s user error and maybe tuning issues. But I learned how to tune on my echo cs590 and 2511t and since they all run great I’m assuming I learned how to tune well enough.
Thanks again for the tips and suggestions. Should help keep me on the right path.

 

[Chainsaw Pete]

I've always been a proponent of buy the best dang tool you can afford and treat it well - it will probably last you a lifetime. I'm happy to have seen more guys here with the same philosophy - said as buy once, cry once. Today's price for a good quality saw that is maintained will seem dirt cheap in 10 years, and more than one guy here has said a good quality saw will easily last 20 or more years.

My choice would be to ask something like 'what do I look at in a used saw' on this forum. Once you know what to check before plunking down your cash (let's be real, a seller is unlikely to let you strip the saw down to the last nut and bolt) you should be able to determine a saw's rough health.

For all I know, someone has asked that question (what do I look for...) and a search will turn up the answers. If I were younger and in the market for a saw, I'd probably look for an older (carbureted) pro saw - but not too old. And I'd be willing to stretch paying for a good sample.

I do suggest you learn to sharpen your chains quickly and properly - that seems to be the defining difference between the 'pros' and the 'homeowners'.

 

[Gord404]

husky 372 or 390- prefered saws in my area- although I do mild port work on the 372 xtorq and the xp's to make them dependable but show their true colors, not fond of mtronic or autotune saws, over complicated imo

 

[paperclips43@]

I've always been a proponent of buy the best dang tool you can afford and treat it well - it will probably last you a lifetime. I'm happy to have seen more guys here with the same philosophy - said as buy once, cry once. Today's price for a good quality saw that is maintained will seem dirt cheap in 10 years, and more than one guy here has said a good quality saw will easily last 20 or more years.

My choice would be to ask something like 'what do I look at in a used saw' on this forum. Once you know what to check before plunking down your cash (let's be real, a seller is unlikely to let you strip the saw down to the last nut and bolt) you should be able to determine a saw's rough health.

For all I know, someone has asked that question (what do I look for...) and a search will turn up the answers. If I were younger and in the market for a saw, I'd probably look for an older (carbureted) pro saw - but not too old. And I'd be willing to stretch paying for a good sample.

I do suggest you learn to sharpen your chains quickly and properly - that seems to be the defining difference between the 'pros' and the 'homeowners'.

Yeah sharpening made sense to me. Even though the two other tree guys I know pay to get them sharpened it always made sense to learn it on my own so I practiced a whole lot especially square filing. I filed almost a whole brand new chain down to nothing when I was practicing. Although for the most part I like to just bring several pre sharpened chains with me to swap out when I’m at the job as I don’t like pausing work to sharpen.

It’s funny I say that saying buy once cry once a lot but I guess I’m guilty of not always practicing it. Unless I find someone on here selling a used chainsaw I think I should just buy new as I live in an area where there are no local chainsaw for sale or rarely ever. The closest city is 2 hours away that has saws on the market.

 

[paperclips43@]

husky 372 or 390- prefered saws in my area- although I do mild port work on the 372 xtorq and the xp's to make them dependable but show their true colors, not fond of mtronic or autotune saws, over complicated imo

I’ve been drawn to getting a husky a lot more lately as certain things stihl does erks me. Like making the carb tool special and selling it for 25 dollars. I really dislike business practices like that. Of course I just got a knock off on eBay for 5 bucks but still. lol.

The only negative is there are no dealers close by. I live in an area where the closest dealer is Stihl and they don’t even stock a 660 or 500i. But that didn’t stop me from getting an echo so I’m quite sure I’ll go husky. It would just be nice if someone on here was selling one. I’m patient so I’ll keep checking the for sale threads for now. The closest city is two hours away from me that has used chainsaws on FB market place.