Roger, thats some fine work, glad to see ya keeping up with it as I got a box headed to you tomorrow!
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Roger, thats some fine work, glad to see ya keeping up with it as I got a box headed to you tomorrow!
Maybe, just maybe to hold up my new chaps!
Those are cool as heck though, and if I couldnt use them I would hang them up on display.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Displacement has nothing to do with the differences. In fact, some Micros share displacement numbers with some XXV saws. The two saw families are constructed quite differently, despite have a somewhat similar 'look' and sometimes sharing parts of their model names (such as "25", "XXV", and "Super").
Look at Mark's Micro Series fuel line replacement thread. You can see how these saws are constructed.............and can compare it to the XXV series saws seen in the S25 fuel line replacement thread I posted the link to earlier.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm
Hi all,
Finally got the crank case gasket in for my Poulan 20 project. Got everything buttoned up today and fired the saw up. The starter rope broke in the middle of it all so I had the opportunity to pull the flywheel again......
The saw seems to run really strong given it's age. It seems to be a bit rich at WOT, it doesn't really clean up in the cut. It feels like it has lots of torque for its size. I ended up making my own cylinder gasket, so I dropped the cylinder 0.010" or so below stock. I went with a 0.010" thick gasket. I am glad I didn't mess with grinding the jug at all. It seems just fine the way it is. I just need to find something to cut up now!
Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy!
Thats a fine looking XX and you done a great job on it.
Most people never think about it or realise what a ground breaking saw that was back when Poulan came out with them.
Ok a few pictures of the 8500 project.
I said I decided to use a new P/C but that didnt work out, as I found another difference in the 8500. The cooling fins on the back of the cyl are shorter to clear the intake manifold on these. So I ended up using the excellent cyl that I had that only had a couple screw hole problems on top where the muffler brace bolted but left the new piston on it as there a PITA to put on with out heat and a guide dowl. (which I need to get around to making).
Everything else is going together fine, just taking my time with it. I purposly didnt want to work on the rear tank/handle as the paint is still too fresh far as I'm concerned. Its hanging over my woodstove right now, should have done that yesterday.
Everything else is done though, recoil, carb etc. I now just basically need to put the trigger and throttle lock back in the handle, tap the hole for the fuel fitting, run the fuel line and put the antivibe buffers back in it and bolt it to the saw.
Going to clear coat the decals tomorrow and maybe put them on.
Make sure your ign gets good ground by tapping the paint out of the bolt holes :msp_thumbup:
I said I decided to use a new P/C but that didnt work out, as I found another difference in the 8500. The cooling fins on the back of the cyl are shorter to clear the intake manifold on these. So I ended up using the excellent cyl that I had that only had a couple screw hole problems on top where the muffler brace bolted but left the new piston on it as there a PITA to put on with out heat and a guide dowl. (which I need to get around to making).
Everything else is going together fine, just taking my time with it. I purposly didnt want to work on the rear tank/handle as the paint is still too fresh far as I'm concerned. Its hanging over my woodstove right now, should have done that yesterday.
Everything else is done though, recoil, carb etc. I now just basically need to put the trigger and throttle lock back in the handle, tap the hole for the fuel fitting, run the fuel line and put the antivibe buffers back in it and bolt it to the saw.
Going to clear coat the decals tomorrow and maybe put them on.
Make sure your ign gets good ground by tapping the paint out of the bolt holes :msp_thumbup:
Few more
Ok, I looked and sorry to say I do not have a decent cyl for that one.
Lignator
Swamp Yankee
Thanks Mark! Couldn't have done it without the help here.
Best part is I have about another 1/2 of a saw left over!
Could you run that by about the cylinders again? Which cylinder are you saying is different from the 8500?
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I may be able to help him out a bit with that!!!
I have a "project" saw that has been here WAY too long that it seems like I'm never going to get around to and I can't think of a better guy to work on it.
Well....... maybe some just as good!LOL
Mike
Few more
I really like that pipe with the 90 degree elbow.
Lignator
Swamp Yankee
So the XXV's are all mag and the micros not so much?
Looks like the micros start to incorporate more plastics ect.
What are peoples views on the XXV saws? Do they have an exceptional power to weight ratio? Well balanced?
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well I know of a little fat hillbilly that would keep them back for weddings and funerals!!!
Mike
Hang on to that half, never know when another will appear that needs help.
That 90 deg elbow was needed to clear the chain brake handles on these later ones. I'm pretty happy with this muffler now, it was pretty mangled up on that outlet. A little heat, some massaging and brazing and I think its presentable.
Scarey how we think alike sometimes. :hmm3grin2orange:
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Steve, look at the first set of pictures that I posted. The one in the front is different from the one in the back, see how the cooling fins are shorter on the back of the one in front, that is whats needed to clear the intake on the 8500.
Not sure when that got changed, I'm thinking that the other cyl is a really old one, but I'll check some of my others when I get around to it.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 25 series saws are one of the best all time top handle saws, ESPECIALLY when you consider when the came out!
They are STILL hard to beat for normal limbing and firewood saws and the power is still on par with the best of the top handle saws even today.
The higher RPM top handle saws from the major manufacturers are actually better suited to the "all day long bottom limb trimming" that is a major selling point for this style, but as a firewood saw, the S25's and its brothers have NO equal!.
I even know of one guy who did ALL of his firewood for several years with nothing but an S25!
Mike
What I was getting at was what the other cylinder is from. I assume it's from a 5200. I've never paid attention to any difference either. I'll have to check that out. Maybe next spring when it warms up. I thought they'd be the same since they had the same part #. Looks like they would have changed the # like they did the piston. :msp_confused:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The earliest Micro series saws are still almost all mag (except for the fuel tank). The later versions had more and more plastic incorporated into them as the years went on. The differences between the Micro and XXV series saws has more to do with the design. In particular look at the fuel tank setups and how they're mounted...............and the side covers.
While the Micro still is a 'bolt on cylinder' design with a vertically split crankcase, it sits within a 'clamshell' of two case halves. One side houses the ignition, the starter, and most of the fuel tank. The other side covers the other half of the cylinder, the last bit of the 'off side' of the fuel tank, and the clutch. It also doubles as the clutch cover/bar clamp.
On a XXV series saw, the magnesium (rather than plastic) fuel tank makes up part of the chassis, and is braced with the bottom plate under the cylinder. The flywheel cover still holds the starter, but covers much less of the saw. On the right side of the saw, the clutch cover is very small and only covers the clutch and bar (except for the last Poulan Pro models that had a 'muffler guard' incorporated into it).
On top of all that, they are metal bodied, American made saws that are very cheap to buy used, are easy to work on and still run great with minimal tinkering after 20 or 30 years!
What else can you ask for?
