fastLeo151
Addicted to ArboristSite
My poulan 3750 needs a brake band and the current IPL I have doesn't list a part number. Does any one have the part number or a used band?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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I found a new chainbrake assembly for less than $11.00. Inbound PM..........
WARNING!!!!! IGNORANCE ALERT!!!!
not so smart in the area of paint. i just thought a good base coat of rustoleum over clean, dry surface would suffice as a primer. guess i was wrong. how is a primer different than a spray enamel? etc.?
fastLeo151
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
See.... Paint in a spray can is a dif ball game than auto paint. Most paint from a can is some kind of variation of the auto equivalent. Rustoleum used to be a fish oil based paint. Incredible rust prevention.... Fish oil got expensive so now its and enamal with some rust inhibitors. Enamel is around the cheapest grade paint. It's also soft and less permanent. Its what almost all spray bombs are full of now. If you buy a can of spray lacquer, it will not work under a high grade lacquer spray because its just not the same thing.
High build lacquer primer is my fav for most priming jobs. I buy it by the quart or gallon for 14ish to 40ish respectively. You thin it with lacquer thinner and cleanup is easy. After you fill and smooth with that, you should seal the item being sprayed with a sealer/epoxy primer. After that.... Single stage top coat...aka acrylic enamel, enamel, acrylic uerethane, etc. or a base coat of color then top coat of clear.
The most important thing for a guy that doesn't want to be a chemist to spray a saw is to stay withing a system of paint products... If you want to use rustoleum, use their primer and color paint and even clear. If you want high grade auto paint, ask at your local store. Here's a picture of a can of ready mix acrylic uerethane that I just had mixed to do some touch up on a jetta I'm flipping. It's spendy at $24 a can, but you can go get a can of poulan green if you have a sample at many paint stores. It also holds up very well with fuel and oil. Another downside is, you should use a good epoxy primer for adhesion. It all adds up fast when you add in thinners.
I grew up in a body shop so if you have questions, ask away. We haven't been in it for a while, but I can help with basics.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I looked at it too and I didn't see anything that would be considered racist.
This concludes my yearly trip to the Poulan threads. Y'all play nice now, okay?
Hiya Bob.
I've seen Gologit run a PP 655BP. As I recall he was quite impressed with it.
Good advice. I have gone to a couple automotive paint seminars and there is some amazing stuff out there anymore. They used an adhesion additive and flex additive and painted a beach ball, and we could hit it around the room without chipping paint. If a guy is really serious, he can go to a auto paint store and they can set him up for the material he is painting. i.e. Magnesium or plastic, and give you the color match. They will give you little propellant bottles to spray if you don't have a gun or air brush.
Anything will wear/ chip if a working saw. I guess it would come down to temperment and how hard you will run the saw to decide how much effort/$ you want to put into painting. I accept that mine will be used on the farm and will get ugly.......but it was fun to clean up an old one and start out fresh with my use of it. It has already taken some hits putting it back together:dunno:
take care
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Right on Cmarti.... I have one of the largest rattle can collections this side of the Mississippi. Way easier than mixing up paint. I use more flat and gloss black spray paint from Walmart than I do water at my house.
Just to be sure i wasnt coming off the wrong way....I never in any way meant to belittle your job. I think the saws look great.... Your choice in football teams was the only thing in question
Just to be sure i wasnt coming off the wrong way....I never in any way meant to belittle your job. I think the saws look great.... Your choice in football teams was the only thing in question
Right on Cmarti.... I have one of the largest rattle can collections this side of the Mississippi. Way easier than mixing up paint. I use more flat and gloss black spray paint from Walmart than I do water at my house.
Just to be sure i wasnt coming off the wrong way....I never in any way meant to belittle your job. I think the saws look great.... Your choice in football teams was the only thing in question
I have been married almost 30 years, you can't hurt my feelings:msp_biggrin
enn State fan I guess? I grew up on the PA border in the steel valley. Hard not to get drawn into football in this state. The Browns-Steelers hatred was epic back in the day.....now the Browns just stink........every year...
I paint so much stuff, I am making a little paint booth out of duct work and rivets. I have an old blower motor out of a Jenn Aire stove and I am going to run it out with a dryer vent hose. I will take a picture when I get it done. My wife thinks I will kill myself on the fumes!
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
I think my wife may hope I do...lol
Engine swap
Hi Folks,
Great thread, learning lots. Can I swap in a pro 220 motor into my 2550t Poulan? I need a new cylinder and piston due to a snap ring coming off after a rebuild.
2nd question: I was taking apart a 3314 to replace the P&C when I inadvertently undid the chain brake, which then blew apart sending bits in several directions. Any info available on how this item goes back together? I know these are inferior big box store saws but still useful tools. Looking forward to all and any help offered. One day I'll get a real Poulan as I seem to have picked up CAD.
Many thanks,
Lee
PS RIP Stompin' Tom
Hi Folks,
Great thread, learning lots. Can I swap in a pro 220 motor into my 2550t Poulan? I need a new cylinder and piston due to a snap ring coming off after a rebuild.
2nd question: I was taking apart a 3314 to replace the P&C when I inadvertently undid the chain brake, which then blew apart sending bits in several directions. Any info available on how this item goes back together? I know these are inferior big box store saws but still useful tools. Looking forward to all and any help offered. One day I'll get a real Poulan as I seem to have picked up CAD.
Many thanks,
Lee
PS RIP Stompin' Tom
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Test mules for mini gtg tomorrow. 5020 50cc, grey 3000 49cc, 4500 45cc echo reminds me of a OE 45cc 346, 545 NE346 50cc, 550.
The 5016 545 on 1st tanks, 550 on 2nd. So no where close to being broken in.
All will be running 3/8 even through I feel 2 may not pull stihl rsc 3/8 so well. Time will tell.
Just wanted to see how the new poulan and 80's poulan matched up and against the new top dawg 50cc stock for stock no muffler mods.
50cc and below saws, no 53cc, thats starts another class of saws IMO Heck I'm thinking of putting a 60cc on my 49cc, but that would be cheating testing in 50cc under just like a 53cc 54cc etc. :msp_tongue:
View attachment 283471
The 5016 545 on 1st tanks, 550 on 2nd. So no where close to being broken in.
All will be running 3/8 even through I feel 2 may not pull stihl rsc 3/8 so well. Time will tell.
Just wanted to see how the new poulan and 80's poulan matched up and against the new top dawg 50cc stock for stock no muffler mods.
50cc and below saws, no 53cc, thats starts another class of saws IMO
Heck I'm thinking of putting a 60cc on my 49cc, but that would be cheating testing in 50cc under just like a 53cc 54cc etc. :msp_tongue:View attachment 283471
Test mules for mini gtg tomorrow. 5020 50cc, grey 3000 49cc, 4500 45cc echo reminds me of a OE 45cc 346, 545 NE346 50cc, 550.
The 5016 545 on 1st tanks, 550 on 2nd. So no where close to being broken in.
All will be running 3/8 even through I feel 2 may not pull stihl rsc 3/8 so well. Time will tell.
Just wanted to see how the new poulan and 80's poulan matched up and against the new top dawg 50cc stock for stock no muffler mods.
50cc and below saws, no 53cc, thats starts another class of saws IMO
View attachment 283471
There is no such thing as a grey Craftsman 3000.
Test mules for mini gtg tomorrow. 5020 50cc, grey 3000 49cc, 4500 45cc echo reminds me of a OE 45cc 346, 545 NE346 50cc, 550.
The 5016 545 on 1st tanks, 550 on 2nd. So no where close to being broken in.
All will be running 3/8 even through I feel 2 may not pull stihl rsc 3/8 so well. Time will tell.
Just wanted to see how the new poulan and 80's poulan matched up and against the new top dawg 50cc stock for stock no muffler mods.
50cc and below saws, no 53cc, thats starts another class of saws IMO
View attachment 283471
That is quite a selection of different saws. It should be interesting.
I could have thrown in a stock 5105 with 5100 muffler and put a partner 5000 back together. But I know they all cut the same as a NE346 in bucking cuts with 3/8. 026 260 I already know but sure would have loved to had a new echo 50cc and stihl 261 to throw in the mix.
One thing for sure. None of them others will be the $165 price tag when new.
Well here is one of those ole magnesium clutch covers that break so easy. It took awhile to get to it because I had to find some of that special Poulan welding rod. You know the magnesium in Poulans is 10% lighter than other saws it takes a special rod in order to weld it so I just call it the Poulan rod. The dark spots around the weld is just alittle JB weld to smooth it out some, like body work. I have not found any welding rod that works on the poulan plastic yet, but I keep looking.
This one was broken so bad that the edges would not longer line up. I had to put a c-clamp on it and force it back together.
View attachment 283484View attachment 283485
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Well here is one of those ole magnesium clutch covers that break so easy. It took awhile to get to it because I had to find some of that special Poulan welding rod. You know the magnesium in Poulans is 10% lighter than other saws it takes a special rod in order to weld it so I just call it the Poulan rod. The dark spots around the weld is just alittle JB weld to smooth it out some, like body work. I have not found any welding rod that works on the poulan plastic yet, but I keep looking.
This one was broken so bad that the edges would not longer line up. I had to put a c-clamp on it and force it back together.
View attachment 283484View attachment 283485
Nice work as usual. If you ever find anything that will weld polyethylene you will be a hero to thousands
Said it before and I'll say it again as often as you keep showing your good work. You do mighty fine work. Did you ever try to redo that 306a drive cover? Ready to be way impressed. Just sayin
No I still have sitting here. You never know I may get real ambitious and take it on, but for now it sits.
Well here is one of those ole magnesium clutch covers that break so easy. It took awhile to get to it because I had to find some of that special Poulan welding rod. You know the magnesium in Poulans is 10% lighter than other saws it takes a special rod in order to weld it so I just call it the Poulan rod. The dark spots around the weld is just alittle JB weld to smooth it out some, like body work. I have not found any welding rod that works on the poulan plastic yet, but I keep looking.
This one was broken so bad that the edges would not longer line up. I had to put a c-clamp on it and force it back together.
View attachment 283484View attachment 283485
3000,
I knew you'd get it welded back together, despite what some others said
.Fossil,
I wonder if you can just fuse the polyethelyne back together using a soldering gun? I've fixed an air leak in a plastic Rollez tire and welded a trimmer muffler guard back together recently using just a solder gun to melt things back together - no welding rod used.
I have a plastic boat that I believe is manufactured out of roto-molded polyethelyne (a Logic, later to become Triumph boats). Supposedly you can fix gouges in it by just using a heat gun to melt it back together.
