Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
Does the 6900 have a HS-168A 'tilly' carb on it?
My 4900 had a HS-176A on it when I got it...but I can't say if it was original or not.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Does the 6900 have a HS-168A 'tilly' carb on it?
My 4900 had a HS-176A on it when I got it...but I can't say if it was original or not.
I don't have any wood to cut..
I'm not counting 4 hacksaws, 1 cutoff saw, 1 miter saw, 2 Skilsaws, 1 Sawzall, 1 table saw, 3 jigsaws, maybe more..
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..And just how many do you have?
I ended up with a bunch of Homelite small mount bars like are used on the Super EZAO so since its hard to find K041 mount bars in 16" 3/8s I decided to see if they could be moded to fit and they sure do.
Just had to open the narrow slots with a hole up into the bottom of the bar groove and it looks now like a old A195 mount.
Just had to open the narrow slots with a hole up into the bottom of the bar groove and it looks now like a old A195 mount.
OK you newer Poulan fans......
can you help me out. As you know, I have been working on a 42cc newer Craftsman saw. New used coil, and new carb, and fuel line. 150 PSI compression. Starts easy and idles, but will not take throttle. Impulse line, crank bearing? Thanks for any suggestions. I wil play with it some more tomorrow.
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can you help me out. As you know, I have been working on a 42cc newer Craftsman saw. New used coil, and new carb, and fuel line. 150 PSI compression. Starts easy and idles, but will not take throttle. Impulse line, crank bearing? Thanks for any suggestions. I wil play with it some more tomorrow.
View attachment 287353
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Open the low side, and keep going til it doesn't hesitate when you open the throttle. May need to add some idle speed as you go. Don't worry about where the screws end up, just keep turning them. Then set the high side the same way, til she cleans out just into the cut. If you don't have the splined tool to turn it without the caps on, they can be bought on the bay for less than $10.
No impulse line, and doubt its a seal if it idles well.
Thank you, have the tool.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I learned that with my WildThing. Did exactly what you said. Keep opening the Lo needle whlie squeezing the throttle. Was surprised as it must be 2 turns open or more.
Bob
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
You know what they say around here, Pics or it didnt happen.
FWIW my wife dont even bother with those comments anymore.
Mark, you know I'm picture brain dead. Have never been able to open post them. Am going to try once the Testors paint arrives and I paint the 3700 handle.
Bob
nthums1
ArboristSite Member
Grill high heat in flat is what I tried last time. Now that they have gloss high heat I think I'll try that next time. High humidity in this area may have worked through the flat.
nthums1
ArboristSite Member
Chain sharpening has never been my strong suit. :msp_mad: More of a necessary evil in my book. I hand sharpened, with a guide on the saw for years. Then made a gizmo out of an old bar, that I can clamp in the vise, and use a guide that way. Worked better. Then several years ago I bought one of the Chinese knockoff Oregon style grinder, from Northern Tool. By far I have had the best "luck" with that.
Its faster, easier, plus I can sit down and drink a cup of coffee or beer while doing it.I can make them sharp enough to cut my firewood. Was money well spent to me. Was around $90 or so at the time. I will still use the hand file once in a while, when feeling ambitious. (not very often).
The hand file thing I use is Pferd (sp?) file holder/guide, that uses a round file for the cutters, and a flat file for the depth gauges, at the same time. Don't have a pic of it handy.
Gregg,
Thanks all and thanks for the pix, Gregg.
Still in the hunt when I came across a brochure for Oregon. 20–Series Chisel LPX. It showed file and grinder angles and it threw a wrinkle since it seems to have an additional setting. The head that holds the chain, besides being set for file angle, they show that head being tilted 10 degrees as if holding file down 10 degrees. Is that a common setting?
The cheap ones I've looked at do not appear to have that setting.
Regular high heat for grills is flat. The new high heat Ultra for grills is semi gloss.
I went with Ultra this time. Looks good so far but not enough run time to see how it holds up. Me I dont care how it looks anyways down the road, I was just painting to cover after sanding and getting surface rust off.
copied and pasted RustOleum
OVERVIEW:
HIGH HEAT ULTRA is a superior rust-preventive enamel that provides deep color, rich sheen and the best protection for high heat surfaces. This durable semi-gloss finish gives metal surfaces a premium look along with excellent gloss and color retention after repeated heating. It withstands temperatures of up to 1200 degrees (648C). Ideal for barbeque grills, wood stoves, radiators, firepits, fireplace screens, automotive parts and more. = MUFFLERS
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8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Regular high heat for grills is flat. The new high heat Ultra for grills is semi gloss.
I went with Ultra this time. Looks good so far but not enough run time to see how it holds up. Me I dont care how it looks anyways down the road, I was just painting to cover after sanding and getting surface rust off.
copied and pasted RustOleum
OVERVIEW:
HIGH HEAT ULTRA is a superior rust-preventive enamel that provides deep color, rich sheen and the best protection for high heat surfaces. This durable semi-gloss finish gives metal surfaces a premium look along with excellent gloss and color retention after repeated heating. It withstands temperatures of up to 1200 degrees (648C). Ideal for barbeque grills, wood stoves, radiators, firepits, fireplace screens, automotive parts and more. = MUFFLERS
Its a freaking muffler. I like them as black as the next guy, but if it don't look like one of Picasso's masterpieces a year down the road, it just gets another coat. Maybe.
Any painting is 90% surface prep, I always hose them off with brake cleaner after sanding, and thats the last time my greasy fingers touch them until the paint is dry.
I can't recall the carb numbers off hand without going to look, but that sounds right. I would assume that the 69cc 6900, being a newer version of the 69cc 4200 would be the same. The 4200 uses a non-governed carb. The 85cc 5200 and I would guess the 77cc 4900 might use the same. I know the 5200 has one on it. Just a guess on my part.
Gregg,
I bead blast them and send them out to be chromed.......:canny:
BTW thanks for the tip on the 42 CC. I was at 1 3/4 out, and gave up. I will try again tonight.
I can't recall the carb numbers off hand without going to look, but that sounds right. I would assume that the 69cc 6900, being a newer version of the 69cc 4200 would be the same. The 4200 uses a non-governed carb. The 85cc 5200 and I would guess the 77cc 4900 might use the same. I know the 5200 has one on it. Just a guess on my part.
Gregg,
Both my 4200 and 5200 have HS-168A 's on them
I ended up 3 out on L on new 5020. I have ended up 3 out on smaller poulans and redmax saws before too.
LOL, I should just be quiet. I put a carb from a 4200 on my 5200 some time ago. I know Mark & others have showed how to block off the governors on the 5200. I cheated, and put one from a 4200, without the governor on my 5200. I just can't recall the numbers. I will check later to see. Will ck the newer 5200 I have also.
Geezer,
LOL, I should just be quiet. I put a carb from a 4200 on my 5200 some time ago. I know Mark & others have showed how to block off the governors on the 5200. I cheated, and put one from a 4200, without the governor on my 5200. I just can't recall the numbers. I will check later to see. Will ck the newer 5200 I have also.
Geezer,
Gregg I dont know these carbs. But ones that have a brass screw in governor. I just unscrew, put a BB in and put brass gov back in.
Basically the ones I have delt with just flood the saw when to high of rpm is reached. This BB underneath lets you adjust past that and bypasses the gov flooding out the saw.
