Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

6900 + 5200 p/c = 8500

well i have my next project started, i have decided to install a used 5200 P/C on the other 6900 i have. from what information i have gathered it is a direct bolt on. i have everything cleaned and ready to install, if i have enough time i should have it completed by the end of the weekend. I think i have most of the parts but will need some for sure. Once i am done it will be a 8500.

 

[nthums1]

Mike,
I don't have any nekkid wimmin pictures on the wall of the shop....just this.
Funny, I just noticed that blue Pferd chain sharpening guide hanging on the wall, to the left. LOL

Gregg,

Must be the day for finding things. Found chain for 2750.

 

[Modifiedmark]

well i have my next project started, i have decided to install a used 5200 P/C on the other 6900 i have. from what information i have gathered it is a direct bolt on. i have everything cleaned and ready to install, if i have enough time i should have it completed by the end of the weekend. I think i have most of the parts but will need some for sure. Once i am done it will be a 8500.

By chance did you compare the rear fins on the cyls? Just curious.

 

[nthums1]

When I look for a saw to restore I like to start with one with little or no corrosion. That seems to make the restore more worthwhile than one that's starting to be eaten up. I would suggest buying one like it and using this saw for parts. If you fix up this one you'll quickly end up with more in it than it's worth.

Thanks for input. Seems lot of smaller saws can be had cheap, making you right.
Found chain, still soaking in can with mineral spirits from about 2 years ago. I have no idea what that last owner was cutting, but a guess would be asphalt roof buried in sand. It did not appear to have a lot of wear but definitely dull. I tried to clean with soak in transmission fluid which has lots of anti-corrosives and detergents. Then sprayed it with brake clean fluid which would not cut it either. Then left in mineral spirits for some time and still the stuff was not coming loose. That 2 year soak softened what-ever it was and managed to knock it off with brass bristled brush. It now looks salvageable and maybe only half worn or less at witness marks on drive links. Back in mineral spirits right now, with an occaisonal swish to let debris settle. I shall have to check how much it is stretched before sharpening.
The drive spur has wear but not as bad as some I let get worn. If chain is not stretched, they may be a match, till totally worn out. Cross chain and drive off list for now. Bearing was dry, but OK.

Now to work the niggly part list + coil.

I finished tearing apart, not the engine. Decided to do that because I'm seeing vent and duckbill on IPL. Like where the --- did they hide that. Found the one for oil when handle was removed and figured that was the inconspiculously located on IPL. Could not see one in tank and figured I had another without a gas vent. Not until I removed that last piece in the carb area was it revealed, hidden under the part that connects carb to motor.

One thing I had noted was the chain cover had damage, like friction melting plastic from clutch drum. Figured something got between them. A little on the oil pump cover as well. It was those 2 missing bolts holding motor to case and the other 2 were loose, allowing motor to shift.

Starting a new, shorter part list.

Has anyone found the best paint for muffler? I tried some flat black high heat but did not hold up. I'm thinking of trying the gloss Rustoleum they now have available. Hoping that will keep moisture from air penetrating which then rusts and flakes paint loose.

 

[8433jeff]

Thanks for input. Seems lot of smaller saws can be had cheap, making you right.
Found chain, still soaking in can with mineral spirits from about 2 years ago. I have no idea what that last owner was cutting, but a guess would be asphalt roof buried in sand. It did not appear to have a lot of wear but definitely dull. I tried to clean with soak in transmission fluid which has lots of anti-corrosives and detergents. Then sprayed it with brake clean fluid which would not cut it either. Then left in mineral spirits for some time and still the stuff was not coming loose. That 2 year soak softened what-ever it was and managed to knock it off with brass bristled brush. It now looks salvageable and maybe only half worn or less at witness marks on drive links. Back in mineral spirits right now, with an occaisonal swish to let debris settle. I shall have to check how much it is stretched before sharpening.
The drive spur has wear but not as bad as some I let get worn. If chain is not stretched, they may be a match, till totally worn out. Cross chain and drive off list for now. Bearing was dry, but OK.

Now to work the niggly part list + coil.

I finished tearing apart, not the engine. Decided to do that because I'm seeing vent and duckbill on IPL. Like where the --- did they hide that. Found the one for oil when handle was removed and figured that was the inconspiculously located on IPL. Could not see one in tank and figured I had another without a gas vent. Not until I removed that last piece in the carb area was it revealed, hidden under the part that connects carb to motor.

One thing I had noted was the chain cover had damage, like friction melting plastic from clutch drum. Figured something got between them. A little on the oil pump cover as well. It was those 2 missing bolts holding motor to case and the other 2 were loose, allowing motor to shift.

Starting a new, shorter part list.

Has anyone found the best paint for muffler? I tried some flat black high heat but did not hold up. I'm thinking of trying the gloss Rustoleum they now have available. Hoping that will keep moisture from air penetrating which then rusts and flakes paint loose.

High heat, header or grill paint. Regular paint just peels and flakes.

 

[Acornhill]

By chance did you compare the rear fins on the cyls? Just curious.

i checked it twice Mark side by side, it is now on the saw, i am in the process of putting the rest of the saw back together. i will keep you posted on how it goes.

thanks for your advise,

 

[Modifiedmark]

By chance did you compare the rear fins on the cyls? Just curious.

i checked it twice Mark side by side, it is now on the saw, i am in the process of putting the rest of the saw back together. i will keep you posted on how it goes.

thanks for your advise,

Cool, like I said I just wondered if that one 5200 jug I got is just really early one. Almost has to be since they all ended up crossing to the same part number.

I hope your replacing crank seals in those saws, cheap insurance far as I'm concerned. You will know if the PTO seal is leaking, it will draw bar oil into the crankcase and smoke alot.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well I got some National seals #340847 for the Micro saws and am telling ya'll, dont do it.

There rubber coated single lip seals without the garter spring. I will be returning these and will try to get the SKF 4913 and see how they work. There single lip and thats fine, the OEM's are as well but these are supposed to have the garter springs. We will see.

 

[Acornhill]

Cool, like I said I just wondered if that one 5200 jug I got is just really early one. Almost has to be since they all ended up crossing to the same part number.

I hope your replacing crank seals in those saws, cheap insurance far as I'm concerned. You will know if the PTO seal is leaking, it will draw bar oil into the crankcase and smoke alot

i am not chainging crank seals, i am first seeing if the saws run at all after what i do, if i need to do more i can tear them back down in about 20 minutes. I have done so many now!! this particular saw was straight gassed early on in its life and looks to be the best one out of the bunch, i can tell you this, i pulled it and stopped @ 170 because my arm did not like what was happening to it.:yoyo: i have the carb ready to go on now and putting the choke and throttle knobs on now.

 

[Acornhill]

it is a great saw, but it can post good compression with bad crank seals. If you want to keep it healthy for the next generation spend the $6 for new seals, cheap insurance...
170 is identical to what my 8500 pumps on my elcheapo gage. Do a pressure vacuum check on it. Even then old seals can go away in a hurry....


...

View attachment 287156

 

[Acornhill]

8500

well here she is, battle scars and all. I still need a handle bar (or repair the old one) a new bar clamp, guide plates, bar, and chain. I have not tried to start her yet. i did rebuild the carb. View attachment 287160

 

[Acornhill]

very cool. The 8500 bar is a bit more forward than the 4200/5200 I would think that they are the last parts to wear out so should be easy to fnd. If you are building a 8500 clone...:hmm3grin2orange

this started out as a 6900 so i think everything is now identical, i check in the Poulan service book to make sure.

 

[Eccentric]

it is a great saw, but it can post good compression with bad crank seals. If you want to keep it healthy for the next generation spend the $6 for new seals, cheap insurance...
170 is identical to what my 8500 pumps on my elcheapo gage. Do a pressure vacuum check on it. Even then old seals can go away in a hurry...

i will need to get seals for all of them then. once i get them all done i will pressure test them all and see what i have for each of them.

That really is the best way to go. Don't want to have to replace a P/C because a 30+ year old seal that's holding right now decides to let go while you're in the middle of a long bucking cut. BTDT...:bang:

 

[redunshee]

Your garage looks a little sparse compared to mine. I have junk in every direction you look. One of these days I'm gonna have some Spring cleaning.

I walk in my garage every day and say the same thing. Every day I tell you!

 

[Acornhill]

very cool. The 8500 bar is a bit more forward than the 4200/5200 I would think that they are the last parts to wear out so should be easy to fnd. If you are building a 8500 clone...:hmm3grin2orange

what is funny is that all three of my handle bars (5400 6900 6900) are broke and have been pieced together with some type of additional metal plate and more screws/nuts bolts. I told you guys this tree company worked these saws very hard.

 

[Acornhill]

6900 5400 8500 broken handle bars

here is one of the broken handle bars on the 3 saws I have, as you can see they have been pieced together pretty good with metal plates and additional nuts and bolts/hose clamps. they actually work this way but these saws deserve better. All three of them are like this in some way/form.View attachment 287179View attachment 287180

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=287179

 

[Acornhill]

bow bar guide plate broken? what model 71-A?

here is a guide plate that i have, it looks like the aluminum is broke where the chain adjuster would go through, can anyone confirm this? also what model does this go to?

thanksView attachment 287181View attachment 287182

 

[Modifiedmark]

here is a guide plate that i have, it looks like the aluminum is broke where the chain adjuster would go through, can anyone confirm this? also what model does this go to?

thanksView attachment 287181View attachment 287182

That chain adjuster isn't broken far as I remember, its made that way.

It fits lots of saws, all older gear drives.

 

[Acornhill]

That chain adjuster isn't broken far as I remember, its made that way.

It fits lots of saws, all older gear drives.

Mark, i was not sure if it was broken or not, if you look close at where the adjuster screw would lay in it, it appears the aluminum is broken and should be a loop to hold it in place. Yes i see it in the service manual for many of the sandcast saws using a bow bar setup.

 

[Modifiedmark]

That chain adjuster isn't broken far as I remember, its made that way.

It fits lots of saws, all older gear drives.

Mark, i was not sure if it was broken or not, if you look close at where the adjuster screw would lay in it, it appears the aluminum is broken and should be a loop to hold it in place. Yes i see it in the service manual for many of the sandcast saws using a bow bar setup.

That adjuster would only be used on a plate bow, the other older cast base bows used a different steel adjuster. It is also used on all straight bars on the gear drives with 2 bar studs.