Nik's Poulan Thread
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They are just some wear marks from the heat shroud that was on there. The exhaust use to exit through the back of the muffler. I welded that shut and made two slits one on each side of the muffler and the opened them up. I did put a spark arrestor around the deflector inside of the muffler and got rid of the heat shield since it is really not needed anymore. There is still an aluminium plate behind the muffler to shield it from the cylinder.
Oh, really....
Pictures or it didnt happen.
Since you asked. I made this. It is the exact width and the exact diameter of the crankcase for where the bearing seats on a Poulan 295. I clamped the cylinder upside down and took measurements with it stock. I made it from a piece of round stock aluminium and then set it into where the bearings go and then started grinding very slow with equal pressure on both sides. I switched the cylinder from side to side to try and keep everything even taking lots of measurements as I went. When I got .020" out of it and then sanded down the base of the cylinder .020. I put it all together and checked the squish making sure it was now at .020". Now I probably did this measurement as I went along 5 or 6 times making sure I did not over shoot anything. Put new bearings in seals in double checked the squish and did a leak test and all was tight and good.
The compression would have been higher but I raised the exhaust port also so that is why 160 psi. Other wise I think it would have been up around 170 or better.
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Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Since you asked. I made this. It is the exact width and the exact diameter of the crankcase for where the bearing seats on a Poulan 295. I clamped the cylinder upside down and took measurements with it stock. I made it from a piece of round stock aluminium and then set it into where the bearings go and then started grinding very slow with equal pressure on both sides. I switched the cylinder from side to side to try and keep everything even taking lots of measurements as I went. When I got .020" out of it and then sanded down the base of the cylinder .020. I put it all together and checked the squish making sure it was now at .020". Now I probably did this measurement as I went along 5 or 6 times making sure I did not over shoot anything. Put new bearings in seals in double checked the squish and did a leak test and all was tight and good.
The compression would have been higher but I raised the exhaust port also so that is why 160 psi. Other wise I think it would have be up around 170 or better.
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That seal hanging off the end there answered my question....lol
That is one of the old bearings and seals from the saw. I used that to hold on to and apply downward pressure into the crankcase and then of course the drill was on the other end. The key was to go slow and easy.
that is just some crazy ****......you obviously didn't know you can't do that without a CNC machine shop.........
Thanks that was the whole point. I always read you cannot drop the cylinder on a clamshell and I probably thought about this for 6 months or more before actually doing it. The proper way would have been to do it on a vertical mill but I do not have one. So until you try you never know.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
that is just some crazy ****......you obviously didn't know you can't do that without a CNC machine shop.........
The pakistani's build guns with nothing but hand tools. I've seen my uncle make a wood lathe out of a table saw. Ingenuity is a fine thing, but machinery(CNC or otherwise) makes it a lot faster and easier. :msp_tongue:
Farmer north of here near Oregon, Mo. didn't come home for lunch. Wife and neigbor went and found the tractor running the grain auger but he was no where to be found. Finally someone got the idea of looking in the grain bin. Yup, that's where he was.
It was a closed casket funeral.
Yikes that gives me the chills.
My cousin's husband in Michigan lost some of his scalp in a grain augar. I told her the above story over the phone and the line went dead. Her husband called me back. She had fainted.
nthums1
ArboristSite Member
Iwas staying in the area of what I perceived as wood equipment. But who says chainsaw is more dangerous than farming?
An uncle got wrapped in PTO of corn picker, several hours. Closed casket. A friend of Dad's got caught in hay cutter. One with driven rollers to crush hay stalk so it dries faster. Closed casket.
Maybe by the falling tree, but few are killed by the saw I'd bet. Grandpa lost his thumb to one of those 36" circular saws. And lived to a ripe old age.
245A/306A wrap handle.
Turns out a 306A wrap works fine on a 245A. If, you have small hands like me...........................................................................:msp_biggrin:
Turns out a 306A wrap works fine on a 245A. If, you have small hands like me...........................................................................:msp_biggrin:
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just finished up another 295, that makes two for now. I really like these saws and find them very easy to work on and modify.
This one I took the squish from .040 to .020. I put in new main bearings and seals and ended up with 160 psi on the compression. I modified the muffler and opened up the deflector inside and created two openings on the outside. I ported the cylinder and advanced the timing. The saw started real easy and ran very good. I tuned it in the wood and with good 4 stroking I was able to get 14k rpm's. I am using a 18" bar and .325 chain with a rim sprocket. A but kicking little saw for about 70.00 bucks.
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Nice, very nice :msp_thumbsup:! A few months back I got a clean low-hours 295 for $25.00 via Houston CL.
i did use it on my saw. thanks muchly. however, i found a parts saw last week at my special store that has a complete cover. it also has a handlebar on it that i don't need. the rubber grip is really ruff but that's another issue. seems like its got everything except a carb and clutch cover (no b&c either). anything you need is yours for the saying.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Along with the gruesome... A pair of brothers near me were cutting wood and the saw kicked back. Hit him in the throat. The other brother had no chance of saving him.
I grew up farming and cutting wood. It's was stories like these that kept it real during my cocky youth. You don't want to lose respect for the equipment you're using.
I grew up farming and cutting wood. It's was stories like these that kept it real during my cocky youth. You don't want to lose respect for the equipment you're using.
Really sad to hear that.Chainsaws are among the most deadly tools.You must pay attention on the saw every single moment during cutting,if you leave your mind free even for a second,you are lost.Same when using dangerous tools like saws.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I finally got the 3400 back together.
[video=youtube;DL1iNA97NAs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DL1iNA97NAs&feature=youtu.be[/video]
[video=youtube;DL1iNA97NAs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DL1iNA97NAs&feature=youtu.be[/video]
Just finished up another 295, that makes two for now. I really like these saws and find them very easy to work on and modify.
This one I took the squish from .040 to .020. I put in new main bearings and seals and ended up with 160 psi on the compression. I modified the muffler and opened up the deflector inside and created two openings on the outside. I ported the cylinder and advanced the timing. The saw started real easy and ran very good. I tuned it in the wood and with good 4 stroking I was able to get 14k rpm's. I am using a 18" bar and .325 chain with a rim sprocket. A but kicking little saw for about 70.00 bucks.
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Is that similar to a 4620? At least it looks similar to mine. I bought one factory reconditioned. Modded and put an 18" .325 bar on it, and I enjoy using it for firewood.......I just need to come outand admit I use a newer Poulan.
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