Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

Doesn't the tag on top say? I think it is in the 53/71 family but not sure which one based on the picture.

The pic is from an ad. I haven't been able to contact the seller yet.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Eccentric]

So, here's my 3.7/3700 first run after MM and porting... I'm impressed, still needs some fine tuning..

Are there dogs available for this model? Not even seeing where it'd mount....

Craftsman/Poulan 3.7 after MM/mild port first run. - YouTube

Sounds really good I think... Throaty...
Not bad for a $30 saw... NO money into it other than a $.50 o ring for the gas cap and the bar I had laying around. Needs a new rim for the sprocket, but that's normal wear...

The spike set (called a 'spur' by Poulan) is still available new for $11-$13 or so plus shipping.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Doesn't the tag on top say? I think it is in the 53/71 family but not sure which one based on the picture.

Well actually maybe the 72 family or such as its clearly a reduction drive. The reduction drives always had a even number for the model number.

I hope I'm saying that right.

 

[redunshee]

Yeah, I've been searching using S25DA and not 250A. I haven't had much luck with finding junked saws at the scrapyards. The one that I know has at least a few saws laying around is apparently closed, or they're on vacation or something. The other closes before I get off work. :msp_thumbdn: This is the first metal Poulan I remember coming across, and the price was right, so I bought it. From what I understand, some of the craftsman saws are actually rebadged poulans...I just don't know which ones are the same.

I'm north of dallas about an hour, close to Lake Texoma.

I'm in PLano and may have the parts you need. Have a box of S25Da parts here from an old saw. Let me look.
Bob

 

[kuhndog]

Poulan 61

Did searches and didn't find much.Anyone do much with a Poulan 61,got one and someday will play with it.Thanks Dave

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I'm in PLano and may have the parts you need. Have a box of S25Da parts here from an old saw. Let me look.
Bob

And if bob doesn't have it, I should. I have a pile of these.

 

[3000 FPS]

opcorn:

 

[67L36Driver]

Dayton 4.5 cu.in. 21" saw find.

The blind squirrel found this: Used Poulan Daton 21 inch Roller Bar Chainsaw 4 5 Cubic in Eng | eBay

Arrived this a.m.. Comp. is 130 and hot spark. Normal trashed fuel system but no white death in the tank or anywhere else:msp_thumbup:. 21" roller nose needs dressed badly. Chain is 50% or better. Piston and cylinder look good from the exhause port.

It's going to need a wrap handle and flywheel cover for shure.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

The blind squirrel found this: Used Poulan Daton 21 inch Roller Bar Chainsaw 4 5 Cubic in Eng | eBay

Arrived this a.m.. Comp. is 130 and hot spark. Normal trashed fuel system but no white death in the tank or anywhere else:msp_thumbup:. 21" roller nose needs dressed badly. Chain is 50% or better. Piston and cylinder look good from the exhause port.

It's going to need a wrap handle and flywheel cover for shure.

carl, i got a 306A clutch cover that might look familiar to you ifn you want it. got couple of grill bars missing.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The blind squirrel found this: Used Poulan Daton 21 inch Roller Bar Chainsaw 4 5 Cubic in Eng | eBay

Arrived this a.m.. Comp. is 130 and hot spark. Normal trashed fuel system but no white death in the tank or anywhere else:msp_thumbup:. 21" roller nose needs dressed badly. Chain is 50% or better. Piston and cylinder look good from the exhause port.

It's going to need a wrap handle and flywheel cover for shure.

They're a pretty good saw, like the Poulan 245. I have three of them, I think the number is 2z463. I think I have an A and a B and a 306A which is a smaller version but most of the exterior parts fit.

 

[nthums1]

Rattled me just reading it.

speel check changed sharpener to sharpened.
Glad someone understood the potential consequence of that incident. For those who don't know what a farm hay and corn chopper is, think of one of those wood chippers that they grind small stuff into the back of a truck with. Everyone of those I've seen appears to be one of those farm choppers with attachments removed.

Those whirling knives apparently caused a draft that sucked my loose shirt in.
Is not loose clothing a safety issue?

 

[3000 FPS]

Poulan 295.

Just finished up another 295, that makes two for now. I really like these saws and find them very easy to work on and modify.

This one I took the squish from .040 to .020. I put in new main bearings and seals and ended up with 160 psi on the compression. I modified the muffler and opened up the deflector inside and created two openings on the outside. I ported the cylinder and advanced the timing. The saw started real easy and ran very good. I tuned it in the wood and with good 4 stroking I was able to get 14k rpm's. I am using a 18" bar and .325 chain with a rim sprocket. A but kicking little saw for about 70.00 bucks.

View attachment 292970View attachment 292971View attachment 292972

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Hey Mike I rednecked it.......................

I broke out with my Redneck idea of using a mantis housing cover for parts. Best I can do and my redneck ways and let me tell you about getting this stuff on 2 fingers at a time.

Now to find some purple and make or get some wild thing decals for the 2 covers (recoil and clutch). :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[rms61moparman]

Hey Mike I rednecked it.......................

I broke out with my Redneck idea of using a mantis housing cover for parts. Best I can do and my redneck ways and let me tell you about getting this stuff on 2 fingers at a time.

Now to find some purple and make or get some wild thing decals for the 2 covers (recoil and clutch). :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

That right there looks pretty dang good.
You'd fit right in if you wasn't so far "nort"!


Mike

 

[nthums1]

I bought a few parts toward putting saws together, among them muffler for 3500. I hate engineers that don't know what they are doing. That darned replacement muffler does not fit! I was putting top cover back on and found that side exhaust port holds the plastic cover away not to mention the heat it would have to take. Or did they ship me the wrong muffler? It came with a second baffle and screen that is about an inch longer and have no idea what it would go in. And it is Friday night so there is a wait before I can talk to someone on the shipping end. Anyone know about this? TIA

None of you professional modders have an opinion?
They are shipping me another muffler, which will fix the side exhaust port hitting plastic cover, maybe. That is if they stamped the holes for bolting up in the wrong location. Or if the spot welded side piece was not properly stamped. I don't have engineer drawings so impossible to say for sure. That side piece for directing exhaust is not at 90 degrees to the back plane and appears to be sticking out further toward the back portion.
I need about an 1/8" to create clearance.

Dreamed up possibilities, open up bolt and exhaust holes enough to shift sideways a little but still maintain gasket seal.
Or try to flatten that spot welded side piece. But thanks to Gregg, it appears there have already been concerns of exhaust restriction with the new design muffler. Just eye-balling, comparing the size of the slotted hole on old front port muffler to new side port, the new design appears about 50% smaller area, that is 1/3 smaller than the original. And that is before looking at the opening available on the tube inside. Pictures of modding and suggestions I think were to totally remove that tube.

A base question. Does anyone know why it was redesigned?
To me, logical reasons would be better noise suppression, better spark arrest, improve exhaust flow (hence better engine performance, power, durability), some poorly thought out EPA hurdle, or durability of the muffler itself. Any thoughts? Or experience?
I asked because I've seen many times where someone thinks up an idea with negative impact. Like oversizing a carburator to find idle and mid range issues. Or thinking straight pipe for exhaust is better not considering the consequence of needed back pressure or tuning for best overall performance.
Some claim better performance after modding the changed muffler, that is opening up holes in baffle and removing other internal parts. Were there any test data available? Hopefully not adversely effecting cylinder scavenge.
I'd rather not burn up a 60cc saw, pricey. Especially since I had an issue already of breaking ring with mild scoring. That I believe to have been from leaning due to lack of fuel tank ventilation and drawing a vacuum.
Assuming the OE muffler was properly designed for engine making it a noise or spark issue, I think I'd prefer to mod muffler back to OE design. That appears to not be difficult. Remove internal tube and squash that side port flat which provides clearance and blocks flow. Drill and cut front cover on new muffler with the same slotted hole that was of OE design. Drill out spot welds holding plate to front of old muffler and attach to the new, now modified, front cover.

Any thoughts?

PS someone went through a lot of effort to create that curved square tube exhaust pipe. It is an exhaust, isn't it?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

That right there looks pretty dang good.
You'd fit right in if you wasn't so far "nort"!


Mike

Youins gots to remember I was born in Hopkinsville KY. It's in my blood.

 

[3000 FPS]

None of you professional modders have an opinion?
They are shipping me another muffler, which will fix the side exhaust port hitting plastic cover, maybe. That is if they stamped the holes for bolting up in the wrong location. Or if the spot welded side piece was not properly stamped. I don't have engineer drawings so impossible to say for sure. That side piece for directing exhaust is not at 90 degrees to the back plane and appears to be sticking out further toward the back portion.
I need about an 1/8" to create clearance.

Dreamed up possibilities, open up bolt and exhaust holes enough to shift sideways a little but still maintain gasket seal.
Or try to flatten that spot welded side piece. But thanks to Gregg, it appears there have already been concerns of exhaust restriction with the new design muffler. Just eye-balling, comparing the size of the slotted hole on old front port muffler to new side port, the new design appears about 50% smaller area, that is 1/3 smaller than the original. And that is before looking at the opening available on the tube inside. Pictures of modding and suggestions I think were to totally remove that tube.

A base question. Does anyone know why it was redesigned?
To me, logical reasons would be better noise suppression, better spark arrest, improve exhaust flow (hence better engine performance, power, durability), some poorly thought out EPA hurdle, or durability of the muffler itself. Any thoughts? Or experience?
I asked because I've seen many times where someone thinks up an idea with negative impact. Like oversizing a carburator to find idle and mid range issues. Or thinking straight pipe for exhaust is better not considering the consequence of needed back pressure or tuning for best overall performance.
Some claim better performance after modding the changed muffler, that is opening up holes in baffle and removing other internal parts. Were there any test data available? Hopefully not adversely effecting cylinder scavenge.
I'd rather not burn up a 60cc saw, pricey. Especially since I had an issue already of breaking ring with mild scoring. That I believe to have been from leaning due to lack of fuel tank ventilation and drawing a vacuum.
Assuming the OE muffler was properly designed for engine making it a noise or spark issue, I think I'd prefer to mod muffler back to OE design. That appears to not be difficult. Remove internal tube and squash that side port flat which provides clearance and blocks flow. Drill and cut front cover on new muffler with the same slotted hole that was of OE design. Drill out spot welds holding plate to front of old muffler and attach to the new, now modified, front cover.

Any thoughts?

PS someone went through a lot of effort to create that curved square tube exhaust pipe. It is an exhaust, isn't it?

Maybe you can post a few pictures so I would know what your referring to. There are alot of people here that can just look at a muffler and tell you exactly what it goes to.

 

[67L36Driver]

carl, i got a 306A clutch cover that might look familiar to you ifn you want it. got couple of grill bars missing.

Hey, you were supposed to use it on your saw.

But, hold on to it or use it as there are three of my projects ahead in the line. Pioneer P-41, Homelite 2000 and Pioneer IEL RA.

On the side burner is a P-40 and my PP 655.....................................................

Yikes!

 

[barneyrb]

Just finished up another 295, that makes two for now. I really like these saws and find them very easy to work on and modify.

This one I took the squish from .040 to .020. I put in new main bearings and seals and ended up with 160 psi on the compression. I modified the muffler and opened up the deflector inside and created two openings on the outside. I ported the cylinder and advanced the timing. The saw started real easy and ran very good. I tuned it in the wood and with good 4 stroking I was able to get 14k rpm's. I am using a 18" bar and .325 chain with a rim sprocket. A but kicking little saw for about 70.00 bucks.

View attachment 292970View attachment 292971View attachment 292972

What I want to know is how did you reduced the squish? The only way I've ever been able to do it was to weld up the piston........

Edit: Never mind, I found my answer :msp_biggrin:

 

[machinisttx]

I'm in PLano and may have the parts you need. Have a box of S25Da parts here from an old saw. Let me look.
Bob

And if bob doesn't have it, I should. I have a pile of these.

Thanks. Let me know what you want for them. I'm going to hit another scrapyard tomorrow afternoon after work. Maybe I'll find something, probably not. If anyone has something they're looking for, let me know...otherwise I may pass by something in ignorance. :redface: