Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

Pp325

Got my 325 running great. Problem was a bad metering lever spring. New spring and voila'. Curious thing though is I checked comp and its 90psi. Pulls a lot harder than that plus it starts on 1-2 pulls cold. Checked my tester on another saw and it recorded fine. Something is amiss. Positive I put a new ring on the piston. However I'm going to check my last parts order to be sure.
Bob

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Ah, that was you running the saw! That was ur 475 ? Hope mine runs near as well. Still waiting for the BB 372 piston to stick in.

That video was just a 65cc 415 I rebuilt after it had lost a fight with a tree. Darn good runner for 65cc though.

 

[Showme]

Poulan 5200

I just received a 5200 off eBay and the previous owner has put a .325 rim sprocket on it. I of course want to go back to 3/8th. Can anybody direct me to the clutch removal tool it looks like I need?

Thanks,

Gerry

 

[OhioGregg]

I just received a 5200 off eBay and the previous owner has put a .325 rim sprocket on it. I of course want to go back to 3/8th. Can anybody direct me to the clutch removal tool it looks like I need?

Thanks,

Gerry

Gerry,
Here is what it looks like...:msp_ohmy: The part # escapes me at the moment. I bought mine from Poulan's online parts thingy..Order tree.

Gregg,

 

[Showme]

Yep, I've got one similar for the newer but not for my 5200. Why did they put a .325 sprocket on it to start with! I guess the old bar it came with it was available. Thanks Gregg, if you come up with the part number I could sure use it.

 

[OhioGregg]

Gerry,
I went out and looked at mine. The only number on it is 31004.
Don't know if that will help you any or not.

Gregg,

 

[Showme]

Thank you very much as usual you are most helpful. I'll see what I can do.

 

[67 Mustang]

Gerry,
I went out and looked at mine. The only number on it is 31004.
Don't know if that will help you any or not.

Gregg,

That is correct, Gregg. 530031004.

 

[OhioGregg]

Thank you very much as usual you are most helpful. I'll see what I can do.

You can remove the clutch on those saws with a punch & hammer also. The tool just makes it easier. Just knock it clockwise.

Gregg,

 

[Showme]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll check a little for the correct tool and if it doesn't turn up I'll try the hammer and punch.

 

[OhioGregg]

Can try this link Gerry, see if it works for ya.

OEM Parts

Gregg,

 

[Showme]

Can try this link Gerry, see if it works for ya.

OEM Parts

Gregg,

Thanks a lot Gregg. It's on the way. Your help is much appreciated. Who would have thought it would have a .325 rim on it anyway. I've been admiring the one your restored and it forced me to buy this one even though I've got the Dayton version. I didn't have a green one though.

 

[machinisttx]

A search for "poulan clutch tool" on amazon or ebay will turn up the correct tool. I'm pretty sure bailey's has them too. I made my own.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I didn't have a green one though.

Sounds like what I would use for a excuse!

I got the S6000 even though I had a 6000. LOL

 

[Modifiedmark]

Speaking of S6000, here it is all tore to pieces. Every thing is cleaned up and ready to go back together. Just waiting for the crank which from what I found out tonight about this, I'm hoping I got the right crank coming.

I said before that I thought the S6000 was the same as a Dolmar 153 and it seems now that I was right, it is a 153 except for one thing. That thing is that it still used 152 style crank (at least I'm hoping that right now) as it still uses that larger crank step for the race, bearing and drum like a 6000/152.

Even though the serial # on this saw says 152 it has a 153 recoil, back handle, tank, RH crank case and oiler.

Here it is spread out on the bench.

 

[redunshee]

Cleaned up real good Mark.

 

[psuiewalsh]

Speaking of S6000, here it is all tore to pieces. Every thing is cleaned up and ready to go back together. Just waiting for the crank which from what I found out tonight about this, I'm hoping I got the right crank coming.

I said before that I thought the S6000 was the same as a Dolmar 153 and it seems now that I was right, it is a 153 except for one thing. That thing is that it still used 152 style crank (at least I'm hoping that right now) as it still uses that larger crank step for the race, bearing and drum like a 6000/152.

Even though the serial # on this saw says 152 it has a 153 recoil, back handle, tank, RH crank case and oiler.

Here it is spread out on the bench.

Is that an evil bosch coil? I have a st**L 045 that I have been trying different tricks to get it to stay running.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Is that an evil bosch coil? I have a st**L 045 that I have been trying different tricks to get it to stay running.

Yes I believe it is the Bosch module. It is the reason for the crank snafu to begin with as the switch wire coming from it had the insulation crumbling off of it and that is what I was trying to get at to repair and why I was trying to pull the flywheel to begin with.

The switch wire is also molded into the module making that wire not replaceable so I had to get creative in repairing it.

It involved threading the now bare copper wire into the insulation from another piece of wire near the module, splicing and soldering a new piece of wire to it and heat shrinking that connection. I also sealed the wires at the module with SealAll.

Seems I'm not really a big fan of quite a bit of German engineering. .

 

[redunshee]

Poulan Pro 325

This 90 comp issue is bugging me. While it starts easily and runs at wot great I don't have a bar and chain for it so I wonder if the low comp will be noticed in the cut. My gut says "yes". I put in a new ring so I'm wondering if the piston or cylinder is worn. I rehabbed the cylinder with muriatic acid and fine sandpaper and it came out ok. A worn out cylinder or piston would seem to be the. Most likely culprit. If so I wonder what my options are?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

This 90 comp issue is bugging me. While it starts easily and runs at wot great I don't have a bar and chain for it so I wonder if the low comp will be noticed in the cut. My gut says "yes". I put in a new ring so I'm wondering if the piston or cylinder is worn. I rehabbed the cylinder with muriatic acid and fine sandpaper and it came out ok. A worn out cylinder or piston would seem to be the. Most likely culprit. If so I wonder what my options are?

you're most likely correct about will it be noticed in the cut BUT you've got it put back together already so just put a b&c on it and cut something. you'll always wonder if you don't. you probly already said but i'm wondering how many different gauges you tried on it. also, does it pass the "hang it by the pull rope" test? i've got some that couldn't hold themselves up if they were sitting on the table but they still cut great. go figure. could also be the ring is taking a bit to break in; i hear tell that synthetic oil can cause that.