Nik's Poulan Thread

[hemiyota]

Poulan Pro 210....seems to be running out of gas

The saw will start, and run for about 10 seconds, and then seems to run out of gas. Here's what's been done so far....

1) New fuel lines, filter, and rebuild carb.............same result
2) Adjusted the needle valve lever up higher, and turned the adj screws out until they almost fell out.............same result but maybe a bit better
3) Replaced the manifold to cylinder gasket, and carb base gasket..........same
4) Reset the lever at the proper height, and tried the carb on another saw.......runs fine!
5) Swapped carb from other saw onto the 210..............still runs out of gas
6) Swapped out the gas cap..........same
7) Removed muffler........same
8) Removed bar and chain.......same

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[dboyd351]

The saw will start, and run for about 10 seconds, and then seems to run out of gas. Here's what's been done so far....

1) New fuel lines, filter, and rebuild carb.............same result
2) Adjusted the needle valve lever up higher, and turned the adj screws out until they almost fell out.............same result but maybe a bit better
3) Replaced the manifold to cylinder gasket, and carb base gasket..........same
4) Reset the lever at the proper height, and tried the carb on another saw.......runs fine!
5) Swapped carb from other saw onto the 210..............still runs out of gas
6) Swapped out the gas cap..........same
7) Removed muffler........same
8) Removed bar and chain.......same

Anyone have any ideas?

Pinched or kinked fuel line? I just did that when I replaced the fuel line on a trimmer. Made it too long and when the carb got pulled up on the mounting bolts it kinked the line.

 

[7hpjim]

Got the dreaded call===NLA:msp_sad:

 

[67L36Driver]

Small Poulan oil pump.

I just discovered I burned up the replacement pump. :bang: Coil spring/worm driver was bunched up and not spaced properly.

Is there a gauge or instructions on the proper 'thread' spacing?

 

[fossil]

Changed out the pumps on the Wildthing and the 220 but still no oil at the chain. Used two from the junk pile that appeared good and lubed them with white lithium grease.

220 is making a racket from the clutch at idle.

The 1950 runs great and oils like it is $5 a barrel.

Would both the saws that don't oil have the two piece rubber pick up?. If so there was a bulletin for the saws that changed it to a one piece. If they do have the two piece, the pieces swell and hold the pump away at an angle and the rubber won't form a seal with the pump.

 

[barneyrb]

Ok, back to first grade, does anyone have a replacement seal number for the S25CVA/S25DA crank seals? I sold my slightly hot rodded S25 and am going through a very nice S25CVA that will be a stout runner but also want it trouble free so new seals are in order....TIA.....

 

[fossil]

Ok, back to first grade, does anyone have a replacement seal number for the S25CVA/S25DA crank seals? I sold my slightly hot rodded S25 and am going through a very nice S25CVA that will be a stout runner but also want it trouble free so new seals are in order....TIA.....

F/W and PTO 530019051. CR/SKF-5510

 

[barneyrb]

F/W and PTO 530019051. CR/SKF-5510

That'll work.......thanks.....

 

[rms61moparman]

I just discovered I burned up the replacement pump. :bang: Coil spring/worm driver was bunched up and not spaced properly.

Is there a gauge or instructions on the proper 'thread' spacing?

There is a tool that you screw the spring into and then tap it on the crank.
When it gets home you unscrew the tool and you are all set.


Mike

 

[rms61moparman]

Here is one of those tools.


Poulan Chainsaw Oiler Pump Worm Gear Tool 530031166 | eBay


( disclaimer-I have no vested interest at all in this sale and merchandise, and this is NOT a recommendation to buy from this seller.)


Mike

 

[67L36Driver]

There is a tool that you screw the spring into and then tap it on the crank.
When it gets home you unscrew the tool and you are all set.


Mike

Here is one of those tools.


Poulan Chainsaw Oiler Pump Worm Gear Tool 530031166 | eBay


( disclaimer-I have no vested interest at all in this sale and merchandise, and this is NOT a recommendation to buy from this seller.)


Mike

Thanks fellas.

Turns out Mo.Jim has one. He is 7mi. south of River City. See him tomorrow.

Ordered a tool for my stash.

 

[hemiyota]

Pinched or kinked fuel line? I just did that when I replaced the fuel line on a trimmer. Made it too long and when the carb got pulled up on the mounting bolts it kinked the line.

Nope. Fuel line is fine.......

 

[fossil]

The saw will start, and run for about 10 seconds, and then seems to run out of gas. Here's what's been done so far....

1) New fuel lines, filter, and rebuild carb.............same result
2) Adjusted the needle valve lever up higher, and turned the adj screws out until they almost fell out.............same result but maybe a bit better
3) Replaced the manifold to cylinder gasket, and carb base gasket..........same
4) Reset the lever at the proper height, and tried the carb on another saw.......runs fine!
5) Swapped carb from other saw onto the 210..............still runs out of gas
6) Swapped out the gas cap..........same
7) Removed muffler........same
8) Removed bar and chain.......same

Anyone have any ideas?

Did you check the primer bulb / line carefully to make sure it's not cracked or not seated properly? I fixed a string trimmer that exhibted the same symptom and that was the issue.

 

[hemiyota]

Did you check the primer bulb / line carefully to make sure it's not cracked or not seated properly? I fixed a string trimmer that exhibted the same symptom and that was the issue.

No primer bulb....I bypassed it........

 

[Guido Salvage]

Speaking of sand cast models...

poulan bow saw f200 old saw

 

[fossil]

No primer bulb....I bypassed it........

The only other thing I can think of if you're not pulling mix is something to do with the impulse passage. I would also change out the spark plug to rule that out.
After you check those things, I guess you'll need to find someone who knows what they're talking about.

 

[3000 FPS]

Got the dreaded call===NLA:msp_sad:

Yea that is a tough seal to find. Well if you decide to try the modified seal let us know how it turns out. That seal is pretty cheap, can not hurt to try.

 

[diggers_dad]

The only other thing I can think of if you're not pulling mix is something to do with the impulse passage. I would also change out the spark plug to rule that out.
After you check those things, I guess you'll need to find someone who knows what they're talking about.

+1 on the impulse passage. I've seen 'em do the same thing with a partially plugged passage.

I am NOT the person fossil was referring to when he said "someone who knows what they're talking about".

 

[LegDeLimber]

No primer bulb....I bypassed it........

How did you isolate/close off the primer/purge bulb ?Could be a problem if not absolutely sealed.

When I ditched the bubble, I used a new carb
Before ever mounting it or putting any oil & fuel in it.
I sat down and cleaned the brass purge line fitting so as to not have any tarnish, skin oils or
manufacturing lubes coatings, etc on the tube.
I did the pre-clean so as not to have any contaminates left inside of the tube
or trapped in crevices made by crimping
because it's difficult to reliably clean them out after the crimp.

An ink eraser is mildly abrasive and handy for burnishing the metal after degreasing
and will improve the flow and adhesion of anything used to seal the the fitting.

Then I double checked that I had the correct fitting and made the crimp/pinch.

That done, I gave it a quick cleaning again and then brushed on some flux,
making sure to get it inside the cut end of the fitting and outside.
( make sure the flux is correct type for the type of solder you have )

Then I grabbed the big Weller soldering gun and put some BTU's into the fitting first
and then fed a bit of solder till I liked the flow and plugged look of the fitting.

A bit of fuel line with a plug in it, slipped over the fitting would do the job too.
I just wanted to not have to be concerned with the hose aging issues or slipping off, etc.

After removing the choke plate from the carb, I also soldered that hole in the choke plate
using the same fussy cleaning routine.
Note that if you have a plastic shaft, you absolutely have to remove the plate from it
to solder or you'll melt the shaft and ruin it.

Check post #9 for a couple pics of my efforts.
http://www.arboristsite.com/hand-held-equipment-tools/241144.htm#post4449561

-
Of course by the time I peck all of that out, you'll likely have already gotten a better answer.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Just when I thought I had seen all the 70's and 80's Poulan rebrands I find this one on Ebay which was apparently made for the Ridgid Tool Company. I have a big pipe wrench from that firm. I don't see what they were trying to accomplish with a rebranded chainsaw but a neat piece of ephemera just the same.

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