Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

Fuel filters

Looking to order some fuel filter for Poulan 46 - 65 cc saws.

What do you guys use? There seems to be lots of choices out there.

 

[3000 FPS]

Roger knows more about the clutch side and finding one now days. My clutch side checked out good.

I would have to go back through my notes and I do not know where they are right now. If I get a chance I will look.
Right now I am 30 miles away from where my junk is stored and I caught some bug going around so chances are it will not be right away.
I know that the clutch side seal is NLA and the inside diameter has to fit over the shaft for the worm gear that drives the oiler. It is completely different than a 505.

 

[machinisttx]

I'm debating on doing a full teardown on the "good" S25CVA I have. IIRC, it only blows 120ish for compression. Deleting the base gasket is easy enough, but can new rings be had? I know the pistons are no longer available.

 

[67L36Driver]

Pretty sure I have an extra oiler assembly if you need it.

Thanks but, I have a carcass with the oil pump on it. And, if the Zama on the 1950 don't clean out I'll use his pump.

I'm debating on doing a full teardown on the "good" S25CVA I have. IIRC, it only blows 120ish for compression. Deleting the base gasket is easy enough, but can new rings be had? I know the pistons are no longer available.

You can get rings from 'The Greek' on evilbay. Just need to shop by diameter and thickness in mm.

Everyone should have a good running S25CVA once in their life. I sometimes miss the one I had. A farmer fast talked me out of it.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I would guess a 2077 cylinder had made it's way on a 475 at one time over it's life. That would be reason for the air injection cylinder with boss to drill out for a de-comp. 475 didnt have air injection and why our cylinders are like they are. Then again you never know about what poulan swapped in when needed on the Sweden assembly line.

FWIW, just to clarify, both of the 475's that I had came from the same owner who bought them both new and had never had the top ends done on them.

Not unusual to see castings changed over production times to simplify part numbers. The 415 and 475 were the only ones in that series that didn't have air injection far as I know.

 

[stubnail67]

ridgid poulan 4200

Mark i know you like the ridgid rebadged saws there is one on the bay.... thought you wouldf like to know also to all the other poulan guys...

 

[Eccentric]

Changed out the crank seals on 4900 today. the 4200-8500 series has to be the easiest saws to change crank seals on that I've done so far. Plenty of room to work. Flywheel and clutch are easy to get off. Oil pump comes off with two screws. And the biggest + is the nice big metal seal body that's easy to get a screw into to pull 'em out.

Since my OEM 530019075 seals are still back ordered.................I went to my local bearing house and picked up some SKF 6904 seals. These are the equivalent of the National/Timken/FM 471466 seals that others have mentioned are a match for this saw series. They fit the saw, but look different. The metal seal body comes much closer to the shaft bore. The configuration of the sealing lip is quite a bit different too. You can see the old seal sitting on the crankcase to the left of the new seal in my pic. The seals were pretty tight on the crankshaft after installation. There was quite a bit of rotational friction afterwards too (despite the seals being oiled with mix oil before installation). Things freed up after a minute or so of running. Not sure whether these differences will affect the longevity of the seals in this application. Time will tell.

I changed the FW side seal and then ran the saw for a minute or so before tackling the PTO side. It ran richer ('wanted' to be leaned out a bit) after the FW side was done. Saw passed a pres/vac test. Fired it up again and remembered Mark's admonishment to change both seals anyways. As I was pondering this I noticed that the saw was smoking pretty good. Oily, slick feelin' smoke. Saw was pulling bar oil through the PTO side seal methinks. Wasn't doing that before the FW side seal was replaced. That seal didnt' look so good, so maybe it was leaking bad enough to keep the PTO side from sucking oil. Pulled spark plug and saw it was sooty/oily.

Rebuilt the carb and replaced the fuel line before doing the PTO side seal. Could NOT get the governor out of the carb. This is the first governed HS that I've dealt with which refused to let go of the governor body. Had a thick orange/red sealer (more orange...........and thicker than what I've seen before) on the governor body threads. May give it another shot later. I'll have to remove the choke shaft to get a good straight shot at it with a bigger hollow ground screwdriver tip.

Runs and tunes fine now. Saw acted weird (like my PP330 did with the bum HDA164) for the first minute or so of running after the carb rebuild and PTO side seal replacement. Thought the PTO side seal must've gotten damaged during installation. Suddenly it started running and tuning like normal. Had it idling and running for a good 1/2 hour after that with no changes. Smoke went away right about the time that the saw started running 'right'. Maybe the weird running was due to the residual bar oil fouling the plug.

 

[7hpjim]

I would have to go back through my notes and I do not know where they are right now. If I get a chance I will look.
Right now I am 30 miles away from where my junk is stored and I caught some bug going around so chances are it will not be right away.
I know that the clutch side seal is NLA and the inside diameter has to fit over the shaft for the worm gear that drives the oiler. It is completely different than a 505.

Ebay seller has this one but IDK if it is the right one for the clutch side of the 475
Poulan 505275715 Seal Ring POU505275715 Fits KS412 Gas Saw New Genuine Part | eBay

 

[67L36Driver]

This thread is severely lacking in cast aluminum content.:msp_scared:

(Old pictures from my library.)

I just love the dual fuel caps for faster pit stops.

 

[diggers_dad]

This thread is severely lacking in cast aluminum content.:msp_scared:

(Old pictures from my library.)

I just love the dual fuel caps for faster pit stops.

I think one side is for "leaded" and the other for "unleaded"... :jester:

 

[redunshee]

This thread is severely lacking in cast aluminum content.:msp_scared:

(Old pictures from my library.)

I just love the dual fuel caps for faster pit stops.

A Corvair. Neat.

 

[67L36Driver]

Got the 1950 Wood Shark running. Dumped the Zama and put on a Walbro. Had to cut screwdriver slots in the H & L screws and a slight re-route of the purge hose.

Zama is in the 'round file'.

We be happy now.

 

[dboyd351]

Got the 1950 Wood Shark running. Dumped the Zama and put on a Walbro. Had to cut screwdriver slots in the H & L screws and a slight re-route of the purge hose.

Zama is in the 'round file'.

We be happy now.

Which Walbro do you use? Does it work for the 1800-2000-2300 series?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Not that it matters but, when I say stronger I go by feel of saw in cut. Stop watch only backs up what I felt if faster in cut.

You do realize my times show seconds. tenths, hundredths right. There was over a second difference which is 10 tenths to a second and they were further apart then that. :hmm3grin2orange:

I timed at real lumberjack events so I consider myself pretty dang good on stopwatches. Guess what even at the track meets guess what we use stop watches, timing the 40yd dash at football stop watches. The guy that times for me when I'm not timing might be off a tenth or even 2, but I know for fact he isnt off by seconds. :hmm3grin2orange:

I shurg a lot of peoples posted testing methods all the time. They dont take into account, chain, gears, tune, same wood, operators etc etc. :hmm3grin2orange:

Kevin, what ever makes you happy man!

I don't really care much if one saw is a .10 faster then the other anyway.

I just stated I don't take much stock the times posted by them.

NASCAR don't use stop watches, neither does NHRA. Why is that? :msp_rolleyes:

 

[67 Mustang]

A Corvair. Neat.

Hell, a Corvair weighs less than that thing! 'Bout as soon put a bar and chain on a Corvair and run it. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[67L36Driver]

Which Walbro do you use? Does it work for the 1800-2000-2300 series?

WT624. Left over from long ago. Cut off metal tab on metering cover and cut slots in H & L screws. Limiters long gone.

Dunno about them tophandles.

 

[dboyd351]

WT624. Left over from long ago. Cut off metal tab on metering cover and cut slots in H & L screws. Limiters long gone.

Dunno about them tophandles.

Thanks for the info. Actually, after my post I realized the 1800-2300s might already have Walbros - I checked and they do. Guess I was half asleep when I wrote that post

Been working on too many saws w/C1Q Zamas lately. I like Walbros better, too.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Mark I'm not going to argue back and forth with you, no use your head is harder then mine :msp_rolleyes:. Just go in front of the mirror again ok .

Oh talking over a second, 10/10 = SECOND not 1/10 :tongue2: I could care less too but since you keep bringing it up. :msp_biggrin:

I'll drink a brew at the gtg with you though.

 

[redunshee]

PP475 running

Got it put together and got it running. No bar or chain on it yet. Running real rich with both Lo and Hi at 1 1/4 open. Starts easy. Will have to fine tune it once I put on bar,etc.
Bob

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Got it put together and got it running. No bar or chain on it yet. Running real rich with both Lo and Hi at 1 1/4 open. Starts easy. Will have to fine tune it once I put on bar,etc.
Bob

All of mine were that way too. :msp_wink:

Did you change coils?