Nik's Poulan Thread

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I am looking for a nylon mesh air filter & not the flocked one for the 3300 etc series poulans. Does anyone know what the part number for that was? found a place advertising some old stock & would like to find one of these. Thanks!
 
I am looking for a nylon mesh air filter & not the flocked one for the 3300 etc series poulans. Does anyone know what the part number for that was? found a place advertising some old stock & would like to find one of these. Thanks!

Whole thread on the subject saved with part numbers etc. Look for link. ;)
 
Well my $15 4000 arrived. Extremely dirty but it has spark and the P&C are in great shape. Comp is 150. Put oil in the tank but the manual oiler doesn't work. Will pull oil pump and hope outlet line is intact. Hate to split case to replace it. Rear handle has been riveted and there is a small crack on the left side. Overall saw is better than expected.

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Well my $15 4000 arrived. Extremely dirty but it has spark and the P&C are in great shape. Comp is 150. Put oil in the tank but the manual oiler doesn't work. Will pull oil pump and hope outlet line is intact. Hate to split case to replace it. Rear handle has been riveted and there is a small crack on the left side. Overall saw is better than expected.

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I thought the oil line with the pick up screen all come out when you remove the oil pump. If you need the pick up hose with the screen let me know I can hook you up right along with that handle. I just got a full bottle of argon and ready to go. The P&C are the hard parts to find on that saw. Everything else is an easy fix.
 
I thought the oil line with the pick up screen all come out when you remove the oil pump. If you need the pick up hose with the screen let me know I can hook you up right along with that handle. I just got a full bottle of argon and ready to go. The P&C are the hard parts to find on that saw. Everything else is an easy fix.
Unless I'm confused, the inlet line is the one with the pickup screen, but he is talking about the outlet line - the plastic line running from the pump to the bar hole. Even that can be replaced without splitting the cases, can't it?
By the way, what do you guys use to replace the inlet line (with the screened pickup)? I've been using 3/16 x 3/32 tygon with the old spring slipped over it, and it works OK, but I wonder if it restricts flow some.
 
I thought the oil line with the pick up screen all come out when you remove the oil pump. If you need the pick up hose with the screen let me know I can hook you up right along with that handle. I just got a full bottle of argon and ready to go. The P&C are the hard parts to find on that saw. Everything else is an easy fix.

The pickup line does come out with the pump. However the output line doesn't. Hopefully it's not the output line. Some of the output lines use a compression fitting and a screw in fitting on the exterior. This one simply has the line protruding out the saw. Maybe it can be replaced w/o splitting the case. I'll test it by blowing air thru the line. Hopefully it is the pickup. I have plenty of those, though a couple have broken lines. I may have a rear handle assembly I can use, if not I may take you up on your offer.
 
Unless I'm confused, the inlet line is the one with the pickup screen, but he is talking about the outlet line - the plastic line running from the pump to the bar hole. Even that can be replaced without splitting the cases, can't it?
By the way, what do you guys use to replace the inlet line (with the screened pickup)? I've been using 3/16 x 3/32 tygon with the old spring slipped over it, and it works OK, but I wonder if it restricts flow some.
I think that should work fine so long so long as the spring is in place. Possibly the output line can be replaced w/o splitting the case. We'll see.
 
The pickup line does come out with the pump. However the output line doesn't. Hopefully it's not the output line. Some of the output lines use a compression fitting and a screw in fitting on the exterior. This one simply has the line protruding out the saw. Maybe it can be replaced w/o splitting the case. I'll test it by blowing air thru the line. Hopefully it is the pickup. I have plenty of those, though a couple have broken lines. I may have a rear handle assembly I can use, if not I may take you up on your offer.

Yep I jumped to the wrong conclusion confusing the output with the input. Sorry.
 
I thought the oil line with the pick up screen all come out when you remove the oil pump. If you need the pick up hose with the screen let me know I can hook you up right along with that handle. I just got a full bottle of argon and ready to go. The P&C are the hard parts to find on that saw. Everything else is an easy fix.

I think Bob was talking about the output line, not the pickup line. That said the output line can be very easily replaced and no the case does not need split.

Very easy to fish a new line through with a piece of thin wire. The 1/8" dia plastic line is the same type used with the aftermarket automotive oil pressure gauges and the 1/8" brass ferrules are found in any hardware store.
 
I think I may have had a brain fart. The piston in the picture may be one from a black "Sears Best" Craftsman 3.3 I worked on a couple years ago. Crazy that they make chrome pistons both ways.

I thought that the Craftsman 3.3 had a plain piston and plated cylinder like the PP335,am I wrong about that?
 
I think Bob was talking about the output line, not the pickup line. That said the output line can be very easily replaced and no the case does not need split.

Very easy to fish a new line through with a piece of thin wire. The 1/8" dia plastic line is the same type used with the aftermarket automotive oil pressure gauges and the 1/8" brass ferrules are found in any hardware store.

Thanks for the tip Mark. I did pull the oil pump and the outlet line is fine. Guess the problem is with the pump or the inlet line. The fact that the manual oiler won't pump oil would seem to indicate that the pump is bad assuiming the pickup line is okay. Never had the manual oiler not work. Usually its the other way around.
 
I thought that the Craftsman 3.3 had a plain piston and plated cylinder like the PP335,am I wrong about that?

I think most all the gray 3.3 were like a Poulan 3300 with a chrome piston. That said we have seen the black "sears best" 3.3's that have come with either a chrome piston or a plain piston. The Sears model # should be different between them though.

Glad to see you hear again Dan!
 
Thanks to all for 3.8/3800 piston ring keeper pin information, there would be no good improvements in fitting a pair of
over sized Caber rings to that pin type.

I forgot to mention that on the recent 245 rebuild, I used some square cord "O-ring" Buna-N stock from McMaster Carr for the gas tank lid,
and it holds 8# pressure test all day. The jointing method I used was an angled cut on the ends to match with no overlap, and
then a dab of Hylomar before I put the lid back on. You can also get that in Viton for longer life, but it's priced higher.
 
I think most all the gray 3.3 were like a Poulan 3300 with a chrome piston. That said we have seen the black "sears best" 3.3's that have come with either a chrome piston or a plain piston. The Sears model # should be different between them though.

Glad to see you hear again Dan!

Thanks Mark, I was thinking about maybe bidding on one of the black 3.3's that are on the 'bay right now but I would want one with the plated cylinder.
 
There are a couple variations of the all black 3.3's, the blue decal one & the gold type lettering one, I thought the blue lettering was the latter of the two, maybe theres no difference? Are any of those on there now Jeff's? I have a blue lettering one I plan on diving into here shortly. Suppose to go look at a 2700 that wouldn't start the last time they used it for $30, couldn't talk them down any on the phone "But it has a 20" bar" haha, bet it really rips with that 20.
 

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