Nik's Poulan Thread

[OhioGregg]

I do not recall seeing a 4000 with this decal before, all the ones I have encountered have blue lettering. Is this something late in the production run?

Yes, That would be my GUESS Gary. The last of the 4000's I think had the green & black color thing going. Black rear handle also. Not sure the last year for the 4000 before the Poulan Pro yellow versions started. Maybe 1988 or so...Mark probably knows. I like the black version myself.

Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

I do not recall seeing a 4000 with this decal before, all the ones I have encountered have blue lettering. Is this something late in the production run?

Yes, That would be my GUESS Gary. The last of the 4000's I think had the green & black color thing going. Black rear handle also. Not sure the last year for the 4000 before the Poulan Pro yellow versions started. Maybe 1988 or so...Mark probably knows. I like the black version myself.

Gregg,

 

[machinisttx]

Need a little help. I just rebuilt the Walbro HDA-49 on a craftsman branded poulan 3300(or something in that family). Metering lever was set flush with the carb body. Started with the needles 1.5 turns out(service manual says 1.25) and it started/ran, but not very well. I adjusted some, but couldn't seem to find the sweet spot. Then it quit and has refused to restart. I noticed the muffler had some fuel seeping, so I pulled the plug and cranked it over a few times. BTW, don't leave the spark plug laying on top of the cylinder when doing this, as I just found out the hard way. It blew fire out of the plug hole. Anyway, I have readjusted the needles to 1.25 turns and so far it's still refusing to pop. Fuel and impulse lines are new. It doesn't seem to respond much to needle adjustments either, or at least not as much as most others.

I'm trying to figure out why it would be pulling excess fuel. It doesn't make sense to me. Could someone have swapped in the wrong metering lever spring? I wouldn't think that to be the case since the old lever was set the same as the new one.

 

[redunshee]

I'll retry using your approach. The Walbro HDB doesn't have welch plugs . I may have caused part of my problem by not running it thru plain water as the final step.

Well think I found the problem. Least I hope so. Drained fuel tank and mix was brown. That likely was the brown s#%^t I found in the carb. Guess I'll pull tank and use another one I have. Need to get some new mix as stupidly I poured the dirty mix in with the good mix.

 

[fossil]

Need a little help. I just rebuilt the Walbro HDA-49 on a craftsman branded poulan 3300(or something in that family). Metering lever was set flush with the carb body. Started with the needles 1.5 turns out(service manual says 1.25) and it started/ran, but not very well. I adjusted some, but couldn't seem to find the sweet spot. Then it quit and has refused to restart. I noticed the muffler had some fuel seeping, so I pulled the plug and cranked it over a few times. BTW, don't leave the spark plug laying on top of the cylinder when doing this, as I just found out the hard way. It blew fire out of the plug hole. Anyway, I have readjusted the needles to 1.25 turns and so far it's still refusing to pop. Fuel and impulse lines are new. It doesn't seem to respond much to needle adjustments either, or at least not as much as most others.

I'm trying to figure out why it would be pulling excess fuel. It doesn't make sense to me. Could someone have swapped in the wrong metering lever spring? I wouldn't think that to be the case since the old lever was set the same as the new one.

Have you pressure tested the carb to make sure there's no leaks?

 

[leecopland]

I know the 3314Ws type stato saws are considered uncool, however I would appreciate the start settings for H&L on the carb. I've rebuilt one and it's not running or idling very well yet. Thanks folks, I'll be back with other older Poulan questions I'm sure, as I have some 2300's to sort out
.
Lee

 

[machinisttx]

Don't have the tools to do it yet, my mityvac only does vacuum. It's also got a high idle as if there is a vacuum leak. I can't find anything wrong with the intake boot, and didn't see anything wrong with the gasket between the carb and the mount. It did restart and run after sitting a few more minutes.

 

[machinisttx]

I know the 3314Ws type stato saws are considered uncool, however I would appreciate the start settings for H&L on the carb. I've rebuilt one and it's not running or idling very well yet. Thanks folks, I'll be back with other older Poulan questions I'm sure, as I have some 2300's to sort out
.
Lee

I set almost everything at 1.5 turns out to start and go from there. Rarely have I found a 2 cycle that wouldn't at least start and run enough to get it dialed in with those settings. If you have the numbers from the carb, the service manuals are available from the Walbro and Zama sites. http://www.walbro.com/servicemanuals.aspx

 

[fossil]

I know the 3314Ws type stato saws are considered uncool, however I would appreciate the start settings for H&L on the carb. I've rebuilt one and it's not running or idling very well yet. Thanks folks, I'll be back with other older Poulan questions I'm sure, as I have some 2300's to sort out
.
Lee

Lee, I think some of the newer saws like to be 2 turns out on both needles to start. My 295 is somewhere aroiund there.

 

[redunshee]

Some of those strato Wildthings have carbs set at 2 to 2.5 turns open.

 

[fossil]

Don't have the tools to do it yet, my mityvac only does vacuum. It's also got a high idle as if there is a vacuum leak. I can't find anything wrong with the intake boot, and didn't see anything wrong with the gasket between the carb and the mount. It did restart and run after sitting a few more minutes.

Maybe a long shot but, I was trying to get an HS going. The carb was running rich and mix was coming out the muffler. Turned out the governor was faulty, Some HDA'a have governors on them. Brass slotted plug just ahead of the choke rod.

 

[leecopland]

Thanks guys, I will give it a whirl tomorrow.

Lee

 

[leecopland]

Thanks guys, I will give it a whirl tomorrow. 3314ws stratos carb tune that is.

Lee

 

[leecopland]

Thanks guys, I will give it a whirl tomorrow. 3314ws stratos carb tune that is.

Lee

 

[fossil]

Thanks guys, I will give it a whirl tomorrow. 3314ws stratos carb tune that is.

Lee

WOW Lee, triple unintentional post. Could be a record.

 

[Eccentric]

I could be wrong, but I think all the 25's had an allen bolt instead of a stud. None of mine have studs.

A few of the very late Poulan Pro branded S25AV saws have studs and nuts rather than the allen bolt. All the rest of the XXV series saws have the bolt. I'm going to convert a couple of my XXV series saws (the ones that I use a lot) over to studs.

 

[machinisttx]

A few of the very late Poulan Pro branded S25AV saws have studs and nuts rather than the allen bolt. All the rest of the XXV series saws have the bolt. I'm going to convert a couple of my XXV series saws (the ones that I use a lot) over to studs.

I think that's a good idea and I will likely do the same. Seems like poor engineering to run a steel(hard) bolt in/out of a mag(soft) case.

 

[Eccentric]

That's my thought. The Micro series was designed after the XXV series............and it has a stud/nut setup (despite being a lower price point design). That is one area of improvement for the XXV series. Heck............no design is perfect (although the XXV series is pretty damn close in my opinion).

 

[80sDweeb]

Hey, which Poulan model is this Craftsman "Sears Best" 3.3 the clone of? Looks like a metal case saw, 54cc, no brake. Would that be a PP335? Or the 3300? Spotted this in a Craigslist ad and wondered what it was (not that I can buy a fifth saw in the same week... dang CAD!) Asking $60, says it's "just like new, starts right up." I seem to recall that the "Sears Best" saws were the "Poulan Pro" equivalent, does that sound right? Does look good for the $$. Looks like it comes with a dull chain collection, as well.







Scott in Penfield NY

 

[Modifiedmark]

A few of the very late Poulan Pro branded S25AV saws have studs and nuts rather than the allen bolt. All the rest of the XXV series saws have the bolt. I'm going to convert a couple of my XXV series saws (the ones that I use a lot) over to studs.

The later saws used a bolt with a hex head instead of the allen head.

At least this one appears to be one of the latest ever made far as I know.