brokenbudget
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haaaaay! you can see parts of the mcculloch 5-10e's batt pack in the backround of pic 2!
woops i said mcculloch in the poulan forum
woops i said mcculloch in the poulan forum
Got it. Thanks Mike.You do now!!!
Check your E-mail
Mike
The rings spins freely. What's the purpose of the teeth on the OD? Tell me about this quad ring. I don't remember seeing anything like that. I'm going to tear it back down and get some pics of it. I'll also try pumping the auto oiler piston by hand. That's a great idea.A good sign is that the manual oiler works as the auto wont work when it wont.
Push that plunger in and out by hand and it should pump, if not check that quad ring on that plunger.
That brass gear should be free to spin in that housing and everytihing should be clean.
That oiler setup is about as reliable as I have ever seen.
Got it. Thanks Mike.
The rings spins freely. What's the purpose of the teeth on the OD? Tell me about this quad ring. I don't remember seeing anything like that. I'm going to tear it back down and get some pics of it. I'll also try pumping the auto oiler piston by hand. That's a great idea.
something i've been working on...
roughing them in:
hmmmm that aint the stock carb...
very tight under there...
the saw flows alot more air. the stock airfilter chokes it down almost 2000rpm
i don't have a pic yet but i ended up modifying the a.f. with a small micron stainless screen (like the screen used in other saws filters but just a touch smaller). thing 4strokes at 13500.
I'm fairly confident I have it assembled correctly. I have the button on the lever on the ramp of the bronze gear, the other end on the plunger. The spring is behind the plunger. The checkvalve for the bar oiler is clean and functional. I did not remove the manual oiler. I did split the tank halves, and reassembled with a new gasket, so I know there's no leak in that oil port connection between the two halves. The only thing I can think is the quad seal for the auto oiler plunger. I'm still not understanding the purpose of the teeth on the bronze gear. I don't see anything driving, or being driven by them. It looks to me that the gear is driven by pressure applied by the clutch being tightened down. This was the first time I've seen one of these. I need to go back in there and study/check it out again.The teeth walk the gear inside the housing. The quad ring is like a square cornered oring that seals the plunger where it goes in the housing, it will be under the washer on the outside of it.
Its a very simple setup, with two check valves in the system. One is under the manual oiler at the top of the pickup line, the other is at the outlet in the bar pad. Like I said if the manual oiler is working then the check valves are probably ok. That only leaves the mechanical part of the auto oiler left along with the quad ring on the pump plunger.
The cross looking lever has to be in with the bump on it against the brass gear.
Like I said you should be able to pump oil by pushing the plunger in and out by hand.
PM me your email and I'll send you something.
Interesting for sure! What carb is that? A WJ?
Was there alot removed from the exhaust port? Looks like you need a K&N filter setup. LOL
Looks good for sure.
widened out another 3.5mm. just too much material to hog out to get any wider.
i honestly can't remeber right now what carb i put on that, i'll have to look
the modified filter does a real good job of letting it breath, and nothing will get past it.
on a side note i'll get some pics of the filter (won't be for a week as my camera just bit it) but if anybody wants to try some of the screen, i can send some out.
I want to see some video of it cutting!!!:jawdrop:
Mike
I have not yet found where that vent line is located.
And what is messed up is look closely at the lines on the carburetor. They are backwards and have gotten many newbies at a rebuild. The line with the fuel filter is shown located on the connection for the pump diaphram. And the fuel inlet is shown connected to the crankcase line.
It is not only this saw they have backwards but the 3000 as well.
Nice work! cant wait to see more picswidened out another 3.5mm. just too much material to hog out to get any wider.
i honestly can't remeber right now what carb i put on that, i'll have to look
the modified filter does a real good job of letting it breath, and nothing will get past it.
on a side note i'll get some pics of the filter (won't be for a week as my camera just bit it) but if anybody wants to try some of the screen, i can send some out.
Another fine looking addition to the ever-growing Poulan collection you are amassing Mark! Have you started on that "Museum" building yet? LOL
Gregg,
I forgot to show the muffler I did for a friend from works 2175. Had to fix the saw for him so I thought what the heck, it wont hurt any.
something i've been working on...
roughing them in:
hmmmm that aint the stock carb...
very tight under there...
the saw flows alot more air. the stock airfilter chokes it down almost 2000rpm
i don't have a pic yet but i ended up modifying the a.f. with a small micron stainless screen (like the screen used in other saws filters but just a touch smaller). thing 4strokes at 13500.
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