Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

Did this make much difference on this little saw Mark?

Night and day difference. You wouldn't believe how much.

 

[partsman51]

Okay, thanks a lot for the info, found a Stihl Dealer here that will bring it in for me, $11.75CDN plus $7.00CDN for shipping, so may buy two just to have a spare, as the one site says every three chains the sprocket should be replaced and I have had this saw since the 70's and never really looked at it till now and it is worn out.
Now how hard is it to get these off and what is the procedure, how are they attached?
Any pics of one dissasembled to show me how they are made, I have to see about getting mine off as the dealer is going to see what the dimensions of this sprocket 28006 is.

So here is a picture of my sprocket, I hope the 28006 will be the same dimension, can't find any dimensions of it on the Bailey site.
I figure it has enough wear to need to be replaced.
Just noticed the date on the camera is wrong, I took the pic last night.

 

[redunshee]

Yup. That sprocket is toast.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yup. That sprocket is toast.

I agree but I've had a couple of saws that I bought used and the sprockets were almost cut in half. I had a heck of a time keeping the chain tight and first thought it was an adjuster problem. Someone had put on a new bar and chain and left the old sprocket on it.

 

[nthums1]

I agree but I've had a couple of saws that I bought used and the sprockets were almost cut in half. I had a heck of a time keeping the chain tight and first thought it was an adjuster problem. Someone had put on a new bar and chain and left the old sprocket on it.

That does not sound like a good combination, new chain/old sprocket.
Was it because the new chain was trying to wear quickly to match that old sprocket?
Just a guess.
I have run across some conversions for changing to a rim sprocket. This way I have a sprocket, chain, and used side of bar that match. Up to two chains anyway.

 

[scottr]

That does not sound like a good combination, new chain/old sprocket.
Was it because the new chain was trying to wear quickly to match that old sprocket?
Just a guess.
I have run across some conversions for changing to a rim sprocket. This way I have a sprocket, chain, and used side of bar that match. Up to two chains anyway.

If you would compare a wagon rolling on spokes to one running on a wheel.

 

[nthums1]

No I didnt look anymore, but since I dont have any other, later IPLs I'm betting its in the handle like that later PP330.



Rock ON that is nice.

Does this orange one have counter-vibe?
I may do some more poking to see if it exists, the vent. If it gets plugged, that is a major job to clean it then. And likely a certainty of running lean. I'm considering modifying it by adding the IPL parts and doing it by poking hole in top of tank near where fuel line exists or pictures posted in manual earlier.

That recarb job is interesting. I wonder how well it tuned out. There is more to consider when doing such mods with 2 cycle because you have no valves, the fuel is also a coolant, and your oil ratio to fuel remains constant. That is you can run into lean and rich spots across the rpm range.
There were a lot of people that learned the hard way during the era of muscle cars. Many thought the answer to more performance was bigger carburetor, some bolting 1200 CFM or larger to small & midsize blocks. This almost always led to flat spots in power curve because of over-carburetion. Ford put out a book showing how to muscle up small and midsize blocks. On the small block, 260/289/302, even after swapping heads from the midsize, oversizing the valves, swapping cam, high compression pistons and rods,adding headers with exhaust system, new ignition, and new intake, they strongly recommended not going above a 750CFM carb.

I know someone who ruined a Classic 57 Impala that had only 27K on it. Decided he wanted to turn it into muscle car. Used a late 60's Vette engine totally rebuild to his thoughts of what would get him the most. I'm not sure if it was the over-carburetion, really wild cams, 12.5 to 1 pistons, or what, but it did run. Really fast. Problem was he never got more than about 600 miles out of a rebuild, most common problem was hole in piston.
Just some food for thought. That is, running something in the hi-performance area might be like running major races. Tear down and rebuild after every race.:greenchainsaw:

BTW, I did seal that filter in every possible way. I used gray RTV which seems to be a little thinner than others and easier to run a very thin bead. I split the filter and run bead on edge of one half at all areas where it migh suck debris including bolt holes. Snapped together and then small amount under screw head before securing halfs. Then the same at the carburetor mounting surface. Gave it some time to skin before bolting back to carburetor. If I find anything on the inside of it now, it is getting through the screen or the engine is coughing it backwards.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That does not sound like a good combination, new chain/old sprocket.
Was it because the new chain was trying to wear quickly to match that old sprocket?
Just a guess.
I have run across some conversions for changing to a rim sprocket. This way I have a sprocket, chain, and used side of bar that match. Up to two chains anyway.

It seems that people who don't use their chainsaws that much think that when the chain wears out that's all you need to change. They get frustrated at the way the saw works and just trade them in. I usually buy these at flea markets and yard sales, etc. Some have very little wrong with them. The last saw I bought only needed a sprocket and a little cleaning to be like new. I have one Poulan that only needs a chain because it came with the self sharpening device and they removed it without changing the chain.

 

[nthums1]

It seems that people who don't use their chainsaws that much think that when the chain wears out that's all you need to change. They get frustrated at the way the saw works and just trade them in. I usually buy these at flea markets and yard sales, etc. Some have very little wrong with them. The last saw I bought only needed a sprocket and a little cleaning to be like new. I have one Poulan that only needs a chain because it came with the self sharpening device and they removed it without changing the chain.

Sounds like it is time for me to check flea market. I might find a deal for something I probably don't need. :greenchainsaw:

 

[partsman51]

Sounds like it is time for me to check flea market. I might find a deal for something I probably don't need. :greenchainsaw:

Since when has it been about need.:blush:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Sounds like it is time for me to check flea market. I might find a deal for something I probably don't need. :greenchainsaw:

Yeah, who actually needs 32 chainsaws? I counted mine and that's what I had earlier in the year. I've tried selling them on ebay but on some of them I'd rather have the saw than what they brought. Funny thing about ebay, something you think people would want, they don't bid much on and something that's off brand, not in good shape, maybe not usable, people bid like crazy on!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Yeah, who actually needs 32 chainsaws? I counted mine and that's what I had earlier in the year. I've tried selling them on ebay but on some of them I'd rather have the saw than what they brought. Funny thing about ebay, something you think people would want, they don't bid much on and something that's off brand, not in good shape, maybe not usable, people bid like crazy on!

Ebay sucks, you never know what your getting for sure!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Ebay sucks, you never know what your getting for sure!

No, but the seller usually knows what he's selling. I sold several, perfectly good, running chainsaws for much cheaper than you'd find at any lawnmower shop, flea market, and some yard sales. If someone had come up and asked me what I wanted for them I probably would have said $50 to $75. I think I got about $20 and had to give some of that to ebay. Good thing I didn't have much money tied up in these saws. If you want a certain price for your saw, you'd better use Craigslist.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

No, but the seller usually knows what he's selling. I sold several, perfectly good, running chainsaws for much cheaper than you'd find at any lawnmower shop, flea market, and some yard sales. If someone had come up and asked me what I wanted for them I probably would have said $50 to $75. I think I got about $20 and had to give some of that to ebay. Good thing I didn't have much money tied up in these saws. If you want a certain price for your saw, you'd better use Craigslist.

Yes, Craigslist is a wonderful thing.

 

[redunshee]

Craigslist has its advantages but in Dallas you'd have a hard time finding or selling a good saw. I've never come across anything worthwhile so as a seller I believe you'd have a problem selling a saw. Maybe its because its too metropolitan an area. Maybe the Texas Chainsaw guy scared everyone off!

 

[partsman51]

Try this one.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+28006&catID=10646

Thank you that was the ticket, once I had the number I was able to find it locally, picked it up during lunch today, and it fits well, just have to put together and cut some wood.

 

[67 Mustang]

Thank you that was the ticket, once I had the number I was able to find it locally, picked it up during lunch today, and it fits well, just have to put together and cut some wood.

Congrats! Glad you were able to find one.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Craigslist has its advantages but in Dallas you'd have a hard time finding or selling a good saw. I've never come across anything worthwhile so as a seller I believe you'd have a problem selling a saw. Maybe its because its too metropolitan an area. Maybe the Texas Chainsaw guy scared everyone off!

I sure wouldn't try to sell one in California..I think they're outlawed out there, at least the two cycles are, I've heard. Maybe that's just new sales, don't know.

 

[formula_pilot]

Poulan 2000 RPM setting?

Hi guys,

Does anyone know the correct no load RPM setting for a model 2000 (2.3 c.i.)? I did a search and also looked through the manual, but no luck.

Thanks

 

[67 Mustang]

Hi guys,

Does anyone know the correct no load RPM setting for a model 2000 (2.3 c.i.)? I did a search and also looked through the manual, but no luck.

Thanks

\

Model 2000 is 2.0 c.i. Usually the best way to adjust is set carb to four stroke out of cut and smooth out in cut. Acres lists operating rpm as 7500.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/1b4ef1f00fa5e65888256bfa0019583f?OpenDocument