Nik's Poulan Thread
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roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
This is the only saw I've ever bought from feebay. A rebadged Poulan 1800 in red.
It needed the usual stuff you expect from an old saw: new fuel line and filter, worn out chain, completely fried bar because it had quit oiling, no air filter (I just can't fathom running a saw with no air filter), couple of the housing screws were missing, and the rope didn't pull in all the way. I fixed all that stuff.
Here are a couple of other fixes that may be of interest:
(1) Once I replaced the fuel line and filter, it fired up and ran like a champ. However, it shot fuel out the intake hole of the carb when I revved it. A lot of fuel. Like a dedgum geyser. Turns out it had debris in the reed valve area. This was expected since the previous owner ran it without an air filter. I cleaned the reed valve and surface up and that problem was cured.
(2) The saw wouldn't oil. Thankfully I saw an old post from poster Modifiedmark to get me pointed in the right direction. The replacement oil pump 530069142 was nowhere to be found. I took the advice from poster Ironhand and grinded off the end of the existing oil pump, dug out all the crud and cleaned it up, and dropped in a Homelite duckbill valve 69451 which are readily available. I also had to replace the oil line within the oil tank. I poured in some poulan bar oil, but I guess it was too thick because it would not oil. I cleaned all that out and poured in some thinner oil (it just happened to be a mix of 5w30 and 10w30 synthetic left over from other oil changes) and it oiled just fine. So if you have one of these saws that won't oil, it's not a hard fix even though that part is discontinued.
Here she is. I haven't really had a chance to evaluate this power sharp chain yet. I got a good deal on the bar/chain so I snatched it up.
It needed the usual stuff you expect from an old saw: new fuel line and filter, worn out chain, completely fried bar because it had quit oiling, no air filter (I just can't fathom running a saw with no air filter), couple of the housing screws were missing, and the rope didn't pull in all the way. I fixed all that stuff.
Here are a couple of other fixes that may be of interest:
(1) Once I replaced the fuel line and filter, it fired up and ran like a champ. However, it shot fuel out the intake hole of the carb when I revved it. A lot of fuel. Like a dedgum geyser. Turns out it had debris in the reed valve area. This was expected since the previous owner ran it without an air filter. I cleaned the reed valve and surface up and that problem was cured.
(2) The saw wouldn't oil. Thankfully I saw an old post from poster Modifiedmark to get me pointed in the right direction. The replacement oil pump 530069142 was nowhere to be found. I took the advice from poster Ironhand and grinded off the end of the existing oil pump, dug out all the crud and cleaned it up, and dropped in a Homelite duckbill valve 69451 which are readily available. I also had to replace the oil line within the oil tank. I poured in some poulan bar oil, but I guess it was too thick because it would not oil. I cleaned all that out and poured in some thinner oil (it just happened to be a mix of 5w30 and 10w30 synthetic left over from other oil changes) and it oiled just fine. So if you have one of these saws that won't oil, it's not a hard fix even though that part is discontinued.
Here she is. I haven't really had a chance to evaluate this power sharp chain yet. I got a good deal on the bar/chain so I snatched it up.
Great job and some good info.
imo, you'll like real [non safety] chain better... I do. have 3/8 lopro on both my little [red] poulans.
Craftsman 2.3-18/Poulan 2400(?) off evilbay. Just needed some TLC and the usual fuel system refurb.
Crap safety chain needs replaced with real chain.
Make a run to Halls tomorrow.
Crap safety chain needs replaced with real chain.
Make a run to Halls tomorrow.
This is a bar for a Poulan 5200 welded back together. Should work pretty good
Nice save Roger
Thanks Tim. I have one more bar like this to weld except it is broken in two different places. Then it will be off to the owner.
It is funny, I had been doing so much welding on magnesium that when I went to weld the aluminum bar it sure seemed a lot easier to me. The magnesium is just harder to do.
Never saw a Crapman saw that looked like that, don't me wrong, but that's an ugly lil cuss.
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I picked it up to see how Poulan adapted a top handle design to a rear handle configuration. That and, fond memory of my S25CVA. A.K.A. the 'Light & Power Bucket Saw'.
At least the fuel supply line is shorter.
At least the fuel supply line is shorter.
I loved that 2100 2400 236 design. Light weight top handle saw made into rear handle with coil spring av. I would have bought one of them new over my 2000 back in the day if it had been on the shelf.
stihl and husky did the same thing with their 339 200 for way more money.
stihl and husky did the same thing with their 339 200 for way more money.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
The fit of the plastic on yours still looks nice & tight. With what appears to be the original bar, it probably didn't get used much. The plastic on one of my Craftsman rearhandle 2.3s looks pretty saggy.
jerry quinn
Proud dad of a US Marine.
The National # is 253747 I just get them from the nearby Napa dealer.
jerry quinn
Proud dad of a US Marine.
Auction find this weekend, Really cool little saw with box and manual. Runs good, And it`s a gear reduction of some sort.
I like my top handle 2.3, cleaner lines
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Sent from my Prism II using Tapatalk
In case the Nationals are harder for you to get, you can use SKF CR 6119 as well
I'm thinking it might be one of these.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...e7fae813c8d5f74d88257087004f71b5?OpenDocument
Jerry, You're getting low on ammo.
Thanks for this source as well I will post pics of the beast when she's together.
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