Nik's Poulan Thread

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Yeah, yeah. I hear ya.:) Nothing personal or malicious intended. Just a little chops rattlin'.

I'm just always leery of the too good to be true stuff -- especially with NO PICS! :laugh:

But hey, if it's the magic bullet for stuck rings by just pulling the spark plug and dribbling some voodoo through the hole, I'm all in!
 
your thoughts on comparison between the Poulan 4000 (65) and the Pioneer P41 (66cc). my opinion is the P41 is a torque monster and can handle a 32" bar if need be, the 4000 is right behind it and will run a 28" bar if needed for a short time.
my thoughts would be too much, if those bars got any where near that much wood... I have a p40 & 41, good runners, imo, would only like a 28 for cutting/limbin w/o bendin over... don't think id go 32. it pulls 24 nicely. I do have p61 for the bigger stuff tho... no exp w/4000, do have 4200, tho. it came to me w/26 on it, and was good... is wearin 22" now...
 
I will be honest about this, when I 1st got my P41, it had a 24" bar on it,( roller nose). It borderline scared me with how much torque it had. I actually blew the bearings out of the roller nose using it. it was like a Tasmanian Devil eating that wood up.
 
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Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
That the stuff I've use, let it soak, dump it out and flush out with brake cleaner. Add fuel mix to relube and check compression. This stuff has been out for over thirty year's for a reason, it works. Not Snake Oil.
 
Can someone post an exploaded view of the oil pump on a Poulan XX (20) please.

Can't get the manual oiler to pump. Either I got the check ball and spring in wrong or I'm missing a ball. I have two springs but only one ball.

Thanks fellas.
 
I will be honest about this, when I 1st got my P41, it had a 24" bar on it,( roller nose). It borderline scared me with how much torque it had. I actually blew the bearings out of the roller nose using it. it was like a Tasmanian Devil eating that wood up.
sounds like ya got a good runner... and maybe a tired bar... maybe the rollers don't like the speed of a more modern saw... have 2 rollers here. haven't run them, but rollers feel tight. on remy bars, theyre not running, yet...
 
If I just wanted to do the top end for now and leave the rod in place, how much needs to be removed to get the cylinder off? Obviously the covers, handle brace and coil etc. 3 of the cylinder nuts seem 'get-at-able'.
Is that foam still available or do you make your own out of some material?
May give it ago sometime but do as Acornhill said until then and always run it with good fuel mix.
Thanks.

Correct on the covers, but the carb & intake has to come out to get the top handle off...all easy peasy, but making the 2 gaskets. Soaking the intake in oil or PB Blaster for two or three days may keep them from tearing. I hate making & scraping gaskets, makes my thumbs sore for a couple of days! IMG_0444.JPG

You can always leave the rod & piston connected, just pull the jug off.

I used a 3M high temp foam sheet off FleaBay for making body gaskets, but it was thicker than the OEM gasket & hard to cut into shape. Briggs & Stratton air filter material or even weather stripping would work fine. I just worked over a saw that had been run for years w/o the seal, and the reed valves were stuck open with dirt & chips, and the main ball bearing (FW side) was trashed & had to be replaced. The operator should have known the air filter was not causing the trash to get into the air box, as the filter looked brand new.

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You'll need a little 90° ignition wrench to get at one of the 4 cylinder nuts though.
 
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My fresh built "3400"... Something different is lurking under the hood though ;).
First attempt at a 5200 style MM. Not pretty but sounds great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There was a 3400 counter vibe on eBay here in the UK, non runner and starting bid of £10. I did a little reading up on here to see if they was any good. I was watching it out of curiosity (collection only, it was too far away for me to pick up) and it's been taken off, probably someone made an offer.

I like your Dayton jerrycmorrow. The fuel lines I put in my 306a (I assume the 245 used same internal diameter?) was 5mm I.D for tank to carb and 3mm I.D for in tank. Don't know what that is non metric. I always sit the ends in boiling water for a mo' as it softens them and is much easier to for them to the unions/fuel filter, sure you all know that.

And thanks to hotshot for that reply regarding cylinder removal on a 306, helpful info as always. I've ordered a base gasket which will take a couple of weeks to arrive.
 

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