Nik's Poulan Thread

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Looking good now. The wrist pin is just locked in with carbon, clean a wp pocket end out really well and then drive the pin out using a brass punch, with the piston supported on a wood block. Note that the closed end of the wp goes to the exhaust side.

Lightly sand that piston's carbon scoring off with 400 grit on a Popsicle stick. You really don't need to "deglaze" the cylinder chrome, but some do it with a green Scotchbrite pad on an eye bolt with a drill. I'd go 65-75 in-lb on the nuts, if you have a torque wrench and a crows foot adapter, otherwise snug them down tight.

I just did another 306 yesterday, and it was filthy like that one. It had both a leaking case o-ring and a bad PTO side inner seal, so the crank had to come out. Good thing I did, because the piston had a big gouge in one place and a busted top ring. It had 130# of compression, but I never ran it. It obviously ingested something (cotter pin or a screw), but the cylinder had already been replaced with a new one.
Gouged.jpg Twins.jpg
You won't believe that I temporarily put it back into service. The only reason I reused it is that the bottom of the ring lands are still OK, so it seals up fine. The top ring is in direct contact with the combustion, so it may overheat the ring. I plan to pull it down to inspect after a few tanks of gas, but the saw runs/cuts great with 135# compression.

Post a pic of the exhaust port on your cylinder, I'll bet it'll take you 1-1/2 hours to clean that cylinder up to shiny again!
 
Hi Hotshot. Thanks for the tips again.

Nice work on that 306, I guess most would've considered it a write off and only good for parts. You should update on it when you take it apart again, be interested to see how it's doing after a few tanks of fuel. Did you already have that new cylinder? I'd imagine they're hard to come by. I remember there was a nos cylinder, piston, rings, rod and pin kit on eBay last year and it was a bit pricey.

Here's some pics of the exhaust port on mine from inside the cylinder. Not sure if this is good, bad or reasonable considering it's 40 years old, or how clear it'll even be from the pics.

image.jpg

image.jpg

How many 306's do/have you had? Got any 245's? You seem to know a thing or two about them (understatement).
 
Between Dad & I, 9 runners, 3 are the 245 series. That saw came with a new cylinder already on it, now I know why... but will post pictures when I tear it back down in a couple of weeks.

Yours is not too bad, just starting to wear through the chrome plating at the port :(. Looks like it ingested something
in the top picture, left side. Photos always make it look worse, but you can work that score mark out when you remove
the carbon tracking above it. That bridge in the port is mostly void of chrome in these old saws with a lot of hours on them.

Seems like nobody reads page 7 of the owners manual to periodically decarbon the saws exhaust port, and most
pistons end carbon scored from 40 years of service on a stout 16 or 32:1 mix ratio.
 

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  • P306_245 IOM Manual.pdf
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Hi guys, I'm new here and have a Poulan question or two. I've got a Craftsman Special Edition 42 CC 18" Chainsaw 358.360171, which is about the same as a Poulon 2375 LE or Poulon Pro PP262. It has anti vibe and inertia chain brake on it. I've done the exhaust muffler porting job on it, which has helped it run a little more powerful. I've been playing with milling and have used this little guy to do some milling of smaller logs. I ground my own milling chain to about 10 degrees, which was a key enabler to get this to work well. It actually is not bad at all at full speed in the cut and can handle 16" dia logs OK, just takes awhile. I'm using a little 2x4 guided mill top down type. I've torn it down and checked fuel lines and carb, ignition coil and business card gap there, etc. All looks good there. Running 30:1 or 40:1 oil/gas in it, tried both.

Here's my problem: I can't get this thing to idle and not die. No setting will work. There aren't any air leaks anywhere. It also will start with difficulty (maybe 30 pulls over 5 minutes) but will start and if run at WOT, is great in the cut with power. If I let off the throttle, it will die within seconds. And if hot after using it 20 minutes a few times, it doesn't want to start again for a couple hours. What are good high, low, idle settings to use on this one with a muffler mod? The saw doesn't have probably more than 10 hours on it max. Old but not used much at all. I can't figure out how to get these to idle and not die, but it is a good, light, and fun saw to use, even for light milling when running. What are the tricks to know with these to get them to idle, start, and run good? Also, anyone have a shop manual for this type saw or close? Thx- Paul
 
hotshot said:
Between Dad & I, 9 runners, 3 are the 245 series. That saw came with a new cylinder already on it, now I know why...

Yours is not too bad, just starting to wear through the chrome plating at the port :(. Looks like it ingested something
in the top picture, left side. Photos always make it look worse, but you can work that score mark out when you remove
the carbon tracking above it. That bridge in the port is mostly void of chrome in these old saws with a lot
of hours on them.

Seems like nobody reads page 7 of the owners manual to periodically decarbon the saws exhaust port, and most
pistons end carbon scored from 40 years of service on a stout 16 or 32:1 mix ratio.
Click to expand...

Nice, I think there'd be room in my life (maybe not house and shed though) for that many 306's and a few 245's. Plus I bet you've got enough boxes of parts to make another couple.

I think I've found that manual online before, I also have the paper manual for it, a little different to that one you posted but all info is basically the same. Yeah, if only people had made the effort to read page 7 (and do it) as you say. I don't think my previous owner bothered to make a habit of even draining the gas (it arrived with some in!) let alone running the carb dry after use. The tank has a varnishy coating. I think the carb kit was the original too, since you know the way the green paint is along the edge of the carb? Well it was on the edges of the reed diaphragm and gasket that stick out of the carb. Don't know if it would've ran with that kit, I changed it before even trying.

How would you recommend I clean this cylinder up then and remove that score mark? I don't want to just 'go at it' with wet 'n' dry if that's not a good idea, especially when I can get expert advice on here.

Thanks for the help.
 
I'm no expert, but I first use a brass brush & glass stove door acid/degreaser called "Clear Flame", and then a long hot bath in a USC. That stuff also works well for mufflers.

Here's a good thread from Mastermind about aluminum transfer cylinder cleaning with emery cloth (without muriatic acid),
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/
Your cylinder has no aluminum transfer, so it's "reference only" reading per the glaze you had mentioned.

I wouldn't mechanically pick or clean that score/scratch, in other words try to leave the carbon alone that is down in it. Also, stay away from the exhaust bridge if using sandpaper or Scotchbrite pad for cleaning, as the bare aluminum is soft.
 
Pauls_Workshop said:
Hi guys, I'm new here and have a Poulan question or two. I've got a Craftsman Special Edition 42 CC 18" Chainsaw 358.360171, which is about the same as a Poulon 2375 LE or Poulon Pro PP262. It has anti vibe and inertia chain brake on it. I've done the exhaust muffler porting job on it, which has helped it run a little more powerful. I've been playing with milling and have used this little guy to do some milling of smaller logs. I ground my own milling chain to about 10 degrees, which was a key enabler to get this to work well. It actually is not bad at all at full speed in the cut and can handle 16" dia logs OK, just takes awhile. I'm using a little 2x4 guided mill top down type. I've torn it down and checked fuel lines and carb, ignition coil and business card gap there, etc. All looks good there. Running 30:1 or 40:1 oil/gas in it, tried both.

Here's my problem: I can't get this thing to idle and not die. No setting will work. There aren't any air leaks anywhere. It also will start with difficulty (maybe 30 pulls over 5 minutes) but will start and if run at WOT, is great in the cut with power. If I let off the throttle, it will die within seconds. And if hot after using it 20 minutes a few times, it doesn't want to start again for a couple hours. What are good high, low, idle settings to use on this one with a muffler mod? The saw doesn't have probably more than 10 hours on it max. Old but not used much at all. I can't figure out how to get these to idle and not die, but it is a good, light, and fun saw to use, even for light milling when running. What are the tricks to know with these to get them to idle, start, and run good? Also, anyone have a shop manual for this type saw or close? Thx- Paul
Click to expand...
have you looked at p&c through the exhaust port or the spark plug hole? have you tuned the carb? these newer saws come with limiters on the carb adjusters to keep you from tuning it properly. our beloved epa has mandated emission controls and that's how they did it. these are typically tuned too lean. as you may know, too lean leads to too hot. sounds like you may have a toasted top end. how did you check for leaks? what is the compression? there are vids online showing how to tune your carb, i typically start at one turn out for both and tune from there. are you keeping your filter clean? that's some pretty heavy duty for a saw that size. just sayin.
 
Hi Jerry, thanks for posting back. Yes, I took out the spline screws and dremeled slots in them and removed the screw limiters. I've tried adjusting the 3 screws quite a bit but just can't get this thing to idle. It will run well in the cut. Leaner low doesn't help. Richer low doesn't help. Seems many people have problems with these Poulans getting them to idle like I do. Porting the exhaust muffler didn't make this any worse but also didn't make this any better. The piston and rings/liner are all good here - did check. Nothing is toasted at all. Never run lean. Filter is new, lightly oiled before installed with a few drops. It is a good running saw at WOT in the cut. Just won't start well, or at all after hot for a few hours, and won't idle ever. I don't have a compression checker but it would not run well in the cut if low on compression. Seems fine that way and has good resistance when pulling on the cord to start. What is the ideal oil/gas mix for these? Does seem very sensitive to that too. For air leaks, nothing obvious there is what I meant. Primer bulb and fuel lines don't have any air leaks or bubbles and seem to work normal.

I'm not a pro or anything, but have worked on small engines for many years when needed and have got lots of engines running well before, mainly lawnmower types, and getting in to chainsaws a bit now. So not an amatuer either. I've taken carbs apart and cleaned, set them, etc. Haven't replaced pistons or rings or bearings on any engines yet but most other needs. This Poulan has me pretty stumped. Is it the carb design? Low speed setting works well responding in the cut, so it is functioning somewhat at least. Just won't idle. I've also recently bought my father's older Mac saws as he is now too old to use them well (75), so longer term, I'll be trying to get those going and use them. The biggest is an 80's Pro Mac 700, so that may be good for some milling later, but it also won't start or run well at the moment. But I want this Poulan to work well too. It really is fine and nice for smaller work or light hobby milling, just really annoying! - Paul
 
Have you turned the idle speed adjustment screw (not the mixture screw) in to the turn the idle up?
I've found that these saws need more than one turn out to run properly. I think my idle is at 1-1/2 and high around 2.
Have you put a carb kit in it? If you have, you may have an air leak which will burn the piston up.
 
Thanks guys. Well, I haven't rebuilt this carb or opened it up. I did spray carb cleaner jet in each low/high screw when I pulled those out and dremelled them so those should be clean. Fuel filter is a possibility. Didn't do anything to that. Could have some pluggage there. Doing some more reading on the site, I found some have found the little mesh screen in the carb might get plugged up and need to be cleaned out on these often. I haven't done that either. So those are some options. I was also reading here someone else recommended using CJ-6 spark plugs in these and not the stock CJ-7, and that by going to the colder plug, they WOULD then consistently start hot. That is really interesting to me and something I want to try for that issue. Some have also pulled carbs off and just soaked them entirely buried and assembled in fuel for a day or two and suddenly they work good! No one seems to know why! But several have done this with success! Might try that!

This saw has never idled right. This is from about 2001 and I got it used and first used it just about 8 weeks back. I cut part of a big silver maple tree with it and an old plum tree with it, then learned about milling and doing some milling now on those plum and maple for hobby woodworking later. The guy who sold it had the gas cap drilled out and said "just needed to be vented right to work". Well, that got replaced promptly with a new one as gas was leaking right out of it. He couldn't get it to idle either. It hasn't got many hours on it at all, little use, but did sit for some time but without gas in it. The original chain was still on it and still had 1/2 life left to it. Fuel lines/bulb are all good. I have messed with the idle speed screw also but also doesn't seem to do too much for it idling better. As for inlet control lever set properly, not sure what you mean there unless the same idle speed screw? Throttle lever? That is fine. Meaning pull the trigger and it revs fine.

I'm getting some good ideas here to explore a bit more. I think this is a minor problem, just haven't figured it out yet. I've just been running it WOT for my cuts and let it die when each is done, then restart. You do WOT for milling anyway, but the constant restarts are not something to live with for long. After about 10-15 board feet of milling for maybe an hour over 4 or 5 starts, let it die and come back in two hours to use it again and cool off. (That part to cool off probably won't change even if it idles well. If I feel the saw getting hot through my glove, I turn it off a while.) - Paul
 
when you do open it up be VERY careful with the spring that keeps tension on the inlet control lever. trust me, that thing will try to escape and you have less than 0.00001% probability of finding it if it does. you can ask me how i know but i already said somewhere else and don't really want to advertise my headupmyazzedness any more.
read the manual fossil gave you before doing anything. not hard, just keep your head outa dark, smelly places.
 
Thanks guys! Really appreciate the advice and direction. I ended up using it last night for a bit and milled a bit with it, 4 ripping cuts in a 7' long 9" dia log of the maple over about an hour (higher power milling saw users may laugh at this rate of speed but that is fine!). Now it is not holding consistent WOT though as it bogged down a couple times doing that, so I think the carb look is definitely in order. I may not need a kit if I can salvage the gaskets when I do this. But we'll see. Give me a while to find time to work on it - I'll post back on it probably in a few weeks. I only get an hour here or hour there each week with my schedule to do projects these days as I also have a toddler at home who is priority number one, so it will take me a bit to get into it. I'm already teaching him how to use tools like his plastic hammer and screwdrivers he uses to work on his toy train wheels...

Oh one more thing, know any good 'net sources to get the carb kits for fair cost? I think this one is the Walbro one - have to verify. I prob should just buy one to have it, even if I don't need it right now as I want to keep the Poulan saw in my arsenal as it is my most modern saw and very user friendly to run once it runs, even with some legendary MACs in my future once I get them going too. thx! - Paul
 
Bumped to the sticky bottom, does anyone know or remember the black plastic S25 carb spacer usage?

hotshot said:
On the subject of Poulan S25's, what's the story on the black plastic heat isolator/carb spacer? I searched & looked & read a lot of old threads, but still can't figure out what series used them and what ones did not.

I had an early model S25DA in to fix for a guy, and thought the plastic spacer was just missing. Got one & installed it and the carb hit the top cover. Then I saw that there were taller covers used on the later S25 series, tried one and it still hit. Thought maybe it was a Tillotson HU-10 versus Walbro WT-83 thickness issue, but they're the same dimension...so I gave up and took the spacer out.

Did the late model S25 saws' air box/cover handle have a design change to increase the depth to allow the spacer to be used?
Click to expand...
 
Picked up a 2000 with after market case and new oilomatic chain for $25 off Craigs. It blurped with a bit of gas - good enough for me. Will prob dismantle and paint up like the 3400. Decals real bad will prob just leave off. On another note- I think I have the bug - 2 weeks ago one of the first things I do on arrival at Myrtle Beach is check Craigs for saws. :dizzy:

DSCF4047.JPG
 

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