cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
thanks non-swede 
How are parts to find, for all my saws I like to have backup saws/parts.
How are parts to find, for all my saws I like to have backup saws/parts.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I hope to be working on some of my projects this weekend, 141A AKA Dayton 2Z462A, (runs great just need to work on the oiler (lines) newest 4000 (runs great) just want to put it in some wood. I may switch my Bow bar from my 3700 to my other 4000 (it has a stripped out dawg hole so kind of makes since. 
should be a fun weekend
should be a fun weekend 
ImNotASwede
ImNotaSwede
I have a 380 and a 330 both awesome saws. Parts are getting scarce but the big parts are still available new from your Husqvarna dealer.thanks non-swede
How are parts to find, for all my saws I like to have backup saws/parts.
Happy 4th of July to all you guys.
Posting this from the parking lot at work this morning..
Posting this from the parking lot at work this morning..
Happy 4th of July to all you guys.
Posting this from the parking lot at work this morning..
I hope you're at least makin' double-time and a half today.
My place of work. If scheduled to work we get 2.5 times. If called in 3 times. I took straight time and got the day off with pay.
Good day fellows,
I finally got around to trying to fire this monster up I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
Let's just say my arm and hand were not prepared. I am either having a very difficult time with the decompression valve triggering fast or I am not starting this with the correct technique. I thought I'd ask before I pull that valve and look at it.
I am left-handed typing...for what it is worth.
Any tips because I am afraid if this recoil snaps back something is going to break and the compression is off the charts with this demon. I am sure some of you guys that run these series of saws have an good technique on starting.
Thanks - Cory
I finally got around to trying to fire this monster up I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
Let's just say my arm and hand were not prepared. I am either having a very difficult time with the decompression valve triggering fast or I am not starting this with the correct technique. I thought I'd ask before I pull that valve and look at it.
I am left-handed typing...for what it is worth.
Any tips because I am afraid if this recoil snaps back something is going to break and the compression is off the charts with this demon. I am sure some of you guys that run these series of saws have an good technique on starting.
Thanks - Cory
When you push in the decomp, is it easy to pull over the first time? I can't remember if I have to set the decomp on my P51 everytime or not.
I hear where you're coming from. You can seriously damage the nerves in your arm if it keeps kicking back.
I hear where you're coming from. You can seriously damage the nerves in your arm if it keeps kicking back.
Yes and no. The valve is working as when I pull it over with the ignition off I can hear the valve venting and it is reasonably easy to pull. When I try and pull it with the ignition on I manage 9 times out of 10 to get about 8 inches of cord out and the saw/valve both pop and the cord pulls to a dead stop/recoils. The tenth time or so it will pull smoothly enough to pop and run - I always try to pull swiftly but when it starts there is no recoil. I don't know if it happens to be that the piston is past tdc when I pull on it that 10th time or so? When the saw is running I have opened the valve repeatedly to see if anything will blast out of it. The valve closes normally when the saw is running. This saw has little time on it and has sat for a long, long while. I don't know if that valve has just been idle for too long?
Try with the piston just past TDC. Does it run rich when it's going?
I'll have to give my hand/arm a break Tim lol. Rich on the L?
Rich on the high side.
Anyone near Denver looking for a red Craftsman 3.7?
One for auction tomorrow at 10 am, it's in at $2 at present.
http://bidopia.auctionflex.com/show...rd=chainsaw&lso=timeleftasc&pagenum=1&lang=En
One for auction tomorrow at 10 am, it's in at $2 at present.
http://bidopia.auctionflex.com/show...rd=chainsaw&lso=timeleftasc&pagenum=1&lang=En
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
You need to roll the saw over before you give it a pull. If you try to jerk on it it is hard on the starter and will jerk your arm out. On a couple of my 655's I have to check the decomp before each pull.
Thanks guys - I've discovered it is exactly as you say. Roll over, retract, check valve, rip hard and run. Any attempt before TDC and your fingers are exploding. I am guessing that timing is well advanced and it certainly bites back a whole lot more than my other big cubes. Regardless, I can tell this is one enthusiastic saw and imagine it will pull mighty hard in the big wood.
Too bad you can't put electric start on it
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
To start, leave the ignition switch off, push the decomp. valve in and pull it over with the choke set three or four times. Turn the switch on and push the decomp. valve in and open the choke half way and pull it like you mean it.
Set the decomp. valve every time you pull him with the ignition on.
The rich mixture has a slower flame front and is less likely to kick back than a lean mix.
I have a cushioned 'D' handle on mine. And, a Homie XP-1000 that I start the same way except it lacks a decomp. valve.
They both will hyper extend your fingers.
Set the decomp. valve every time you pull him with the ignition on.
The rich mixture has a slower flame front and is less likely to kick back than a lean mix.
I have a cushioned 'D' handle on mine. And, a Homie XP-1000 that I start the same way except it lacks a decomp. valve.
They both will hyper extend your fingers.
Put-It-In-H!
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi. I have been cleaning up my 306 and decarbing the piston, not got around to doing much with the cylinder yet but that needs decarbing too and the old gasket is stuck down good! Plan was to remove the piston but the wrist pin would not come out, I removed the snap rings, heated up with a hair dryer but it hardly moved at all so gave up as I didn't want to use force. Is the pin a press fit on this model of saw? I wouldn't have thought so but it's in that tight it seems like it is. So it was awkward work cleaning with it attached and I had to be careful. Here's some pics.
Before:
After:
I gave the ring grooves a good cleaning too and rinsed the crankcase out with clean gas/oil mix.
I don't like the looks of these scores at the exhaust side. What could've caused this and should I worry?
Top handle before:
Top handle after:
Should I give the cylinder a light hone with some wet and dry? Looks glazed, I'm using the old rings. How tight should the cylinder nuts be when reassembling? Worried about under/over tightening them.
Thanks
Before:
After:
I gave the ring grooves a good cleaning too and rinsed the crankcase out with clean gas/oil mix.
I don't like the looks of these scores at the exhaust side. What could've caused this and should I worry?
Top handle before:
Top handle after:
Should I give the cylinder a light hone with some wet and dry? Looks glazed, I'm using the old rings. How tight should the cylinder nuts be when reassembling? Worried about under/over tightening them.
Thanks
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