Nik's Poulan Thread

[blk05crew]

There shouldn't be fuel inside and outside the carb like this after running, what's causing this?

 

[blk05crew]

I decided to take apart the carb and clean it to see if that would help the idle any. Good news is it was a little dirty so I think that will help. Bad news is when I was tightening the carb back down the bolt sheared of and now I have this problem.



Stuck in the hole. How the hell do I get that out!? And here is the screw.



Also noticed this piece below the carb is cracked in three spots.





Damn it! I thought I was so close. Now what, could use some advise fellas. Thanks.

 

[blk05crew]

Thanks for the response! The piece that is cracked is actually plastic.

 

[fossil]

That part is PN 530023654. It's not that easy to find.

 

[blk05crew]

Thanks Tim I guess I'll start searching!

 

[blk05crew]

Found the plastic part and ordered it on ebay for $8. Now I need to find a new bolt for the carb.

 

[blk05crew]

Anybody know the PN for the carb bolt that sheared off? I can't seem to find it and it's not in the service manual that I could see.

 

[fossil]

Anybody know the PN for the carb bolt that sheared off? I can't seem to find it and it's not in the service manual that I could see.

530015204 Stud - Carburetor

 

[blk05crew]

Thanks again Tim, just found a place that sells them and ordered 2, figured I might as well replace both.

 

[fossil]

Go easy on saws when you're tightening things up. Most of the saw is magnesium with a bit of plastic and the cylinder is aluminum and none of it is very forgiving to over tightening screws.
That is true of all saws cheap or pro, old or new.
That goes for the bar stud nuts as well.

 

[blk05crew]

Thanks Tim I tend to over tighten things so I'm sure that's what happened. Good info!

 

[blk05crew]

I just got an e-mail back from the company I ordered the carb stud for and they said they don't have them now and they are issuing me a refund. I can't find one anywhere else
at the moment. Does anyone know if a 6900 carb stud will fit the 4200, the part number is different of course but it looks the same?

 

[fossil]

It has a different air filter so it is unlikely it is the same. If you have access to some threading dies they wouldn't be too difficult to make.

 

[blk05crew]

I think the 6900 one is shorter. If I can't find another one somewhere I guess I'll have to try and make one. Thanks Tim.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

5min wipe down after getting 54cc. Till I put the 60cc topend I have on hand on.

Only 5min drive is why I had to have the green tank saw I have wanted. owned 3450's
but none were green tanks.

 

[Craigwell]

Pioneer 1200A / Poulan (Craftsman) 3400 / Homelite XL-76 Throwdown :

After a tank in the the Pioneer and the Craftsman.. (still waiting for XL-76 clutch & drum I ordered..)

- The pioneer definitely has the edge right now. Turns up better, cuts anything. Has more power.

I think I need to work on the tune of the craftsman somewhat.. anyone have a suggestion for baseline for H and L ? I have the H screw backed out 1 full turn from fully seated.

Only mod on the 3400 so far is the spark arrestor removed from exhaust.

I think I'd be in better shape physically with the counter vibe after a full day than the pioneer though .. haha

 

[Craigwell]

Backed each screw on the craftsman 3400 out ccw to 1 1/2 turn from seated. Started it up. After warming up, went to WOT and slowly turned the L screw in until I had best RPM. adjust idle to suit. Cut a few pieces, seems much better, but thinking power can be a bit better in deep cuts.. ( I was using a 12" birch log for my test cutting) 18" bar.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[fossil]

Set the low for idle and so that the saw accelerates quickly from idle. WOT is set with the H screw. 1-1/2 out on the high is too much unless your pump diaphragm is about shot. If you have a fresh carb kit in it the high should be 1 turn out or a tiny bit more. Tune the high so it 4 strokes a bit and then cleans up when cutting.

 

[Craigwell]

Ok. I may have misunderstood what I read last night.

I need to back up a step and get my head around chainsaw carb theory..

Ironic since I've rebuilt more than one automotive carb.. The instructions I found talked about 1.5 turns as a baseline and adjusting in from there.

I'll do my research ..

Saw wasn't bad on H with 1 turn out (when I got it it was only 1/2 turn out) but I just felt the pioneer ran circles around it - and that was untouched with the exception of me putting fresh mix in it and cleaning the plug. I still smell elements of the old rancid fuel on a cold start - 4 tanks later !

 

[redunshee]

I adjust the LO needle at idle, turn counterclockwise until it starts to stall then go clockwise until it again starts to stall. Set needle at the midpoint of these two extreme settings and do minor adustments(usually counterclockwise) from there so saw accelerates w/o hesitation.