Nik's Poulan Thread

[s sidewall]

They are dirty but will rev like no tomorrow

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(

 

[s sidewall]

Looks like a shield for a recoil on the starter cover or a clutch side shield

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yep, Gary is right. Years ago they called for a 16:1 ratio. Then over time 32:1 was common. Thats what my 3400 called for when it was new. I don't think they even had synthetic oil back then. I could be wrong. But it wasn't used in chainsaws as a rule then. Oils are much better these days...wish I could say the same for the gasoline.

"Most" folks today run synthetic oils at 40:1 or 50:1. Some will still stay at 32:1 but use syn. oil. Some will use a slightly high oil ratio when running in a extreme heat or work load condition, like using a chainsaw for milling lumber, where you have a long steady load on the saw. You are not running in short bursts like when felling or bucking firewood.

Some just feel "safer" or more confident with slightly more oil, but the newer oils protect much better than they use to. I think the earlier saws, even stated to use 30wt. oil as the mix, I'm assuming regular 30wt. non-detergent motor oil. I never did, so don't know. But they must have smoked a heck of a lot..LOL

Gregg,

They sure did use 30WT non detergent back in the day. This label is from 1960. Figure that ratio out. 1/2 pint to a gallon was 16-1 which we used in the 70's and 80's.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I am going through my Poulan parts, it takes me hours just to go through one box, I have 40 or so to go through. Here is another I have not identified yet

Not sure that I ever seen that part on a chainsaw.

Might be from a blower or something?

 

[Acornhill]

Not sure that I ever seen that part on a chainsaw.

Might be from a blower or something?

maybe that is why i could never figure it out!!, another mystery ) solved .

 

[Acornhill]

Not sure that I ever seen that part on a chainsaw.

Might be from a blower or something?

that is a very nice 82

 

[redunshee]

More power with more oil? Sounds backwards. I'm kind of interested now, going to look it up. I keep contemplating removing the muffler screen but don't have the guts to do it. Just feel like something will get in and somehow find its way into the cylinder.

No worries. Its essentially a spark arrestor. Keeps you from burning down the forrest. Unless your cutting in State owned land no real need for it.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

... better heat transmission from the piston skirt to the cylinder....

which brings up a question I've been having for years. when a pc is slightly scored (including on the skirt) is it a bad idea to knock the high parts of with sand paper and reinstall. what would be the ramifications? how would it impact operation? I've got a piston that was apparently straight gassed that I've sanded down to where it only shows grooves but no ridges. haven't, and don't really intend to, reinstall in a rebuild. its from a S25DA. yeah, I know, they're cheap but the question is more an academic sort. still, if needy, wondering if it would work.

 

[Ambull01]

Important to note if you mix 32:1 and feed it to a saw that is tuned to 50:1 it will run lean and hot. It won't get enough fuel unless you turn the needles out a bit. It will get plenty of oil but the oil displaces the fuel so it will need a little more mix to be exactly right. Some folks have a difficult time grasping this concept. The oil is the lube, the gas is the fuel. The fuel/air ratio needs to be maintained for maximum results.

Yeah, I'm one of them that can't grasp that concept. I get the part how it will make the saw run lean because less fuel per volume or however you say it. The hot part is just out of my comprehension though lol. Or, because the saw is getting less fuel, it has to be sped up/leaned out to make it run right. I think. Sort of like how a saw will run/sound when fuel is just about gone. Noticed my Makita will sound like it's running lean/fast right before it shuts down from lack of fuel in the tank. Actually that may be exactly what you said above. Sorry about my ignorance, I have no experience with engines.

I like your previous post: "engine manufacturers scrambled to upgrade the materials of construction to survive..." Better materials, better oil quality, and adequate lubrication means my Makita and hopefully future Poulan should last a long time.

 

[redunshee]

which brings up a question I've been having for years. when a pc is slightly scored (including on the skirt) is it a bad idea to knock the high parts of with sand paper and reinstall. what would be the ramifications? how would it impact operation? I've got a piston that was apparently straight gassed that I've sanded down to where it only shows grooves but no ridges. haven't, and don't really intend to, reinstall in a rebuild. its from a S25DA. yeah, I know, they're cheap but the question is more an academic sort. still, if needy, wondering if it would work.

Jerry, I've read that there is a maximum acceptable clearance for the piston skirt/bore. Sanding has the potential to exceed that maximum . I will say I don't know what the acceptable is though.

 

[redunshee]

Jerry, I've read that there is a maximum acceptable clearance for the piston skirt/bore. Sanding has the potential to exceed that maximum . I will say I don't know what the acceptable is though.

Did a search and it appears that .0035 is acceptable or ideal. Seems like .007 is excessive. Tighter the better as too much space between skirt and intake and exhaust ports results in poor performance.

 

[Ambull01]

No worries. Its essentially a spark arrestor. Keeps you from burning down the forrest. Unless your cutting in State owned land no real need for it.

So you have never had anything fall/crawl/sucked into the muffler and get into the exhaust port even with a modded muffler that has basically nothing in it? I don't know know why I'm so scared about taking the screen off lol.

 

[redunshee]

So you have never had anything fall/crawl/sucked into the muffler and get into the exhaust port even with a modded muffler that has basically nothing in it? I don't know know why I'm so scared about taking the screen off lol.

Nope but if you're concerned, leave it in.

 

[Ambull01]

Nope but if you're concerned, leave it in.

Well, I took it off last night and lost the screen. Damn those things are small.

 

[Ambull01]

I think I finally found a Poulan. At least a Poulan in black

 

[redunshee]

I think I finally found a Poulan. At least a Poulan in black

Yup. Poulan 3300 clone.

 

[Ambull01]

Yup. Poulan 3300 clone.

Yes! Finally. Probably sold already though. My wife said I should collect old school safety razors the other night. Said it may be a cool hobby. I'm going to convince her I need to collect chainsaws instead. Hope it works

 

[redunshee]

Yes! Finally. Probably sold already though. My wife said I should collect old school safety razors the other night. Said it may be a cool hobby. I'm going to convince her I need to collect chainsaws instead. Hope it works

The 3300 was the largest of the 2700,2800 and 3000 series. 54cc's if I recall correctly. The 2700 and 2800 are 46cc,s and the 3000. 49cc's. All great running saws.

 

[Ambull01]

The 3300 was the largest of the 2700,2800 and 3000 series. 54cc's if I recall correctly. The 2700 and 2800 are 46cc,s and the 3000. 49cc's. All great running saws.

Okay thanks. I think I remember either you or someone else mentioning the 2700 and 2800 series as a limber.

If you had a choice between the Craftsman 3.3 and a Poulan 3400, both for $60, which would you choose?

 

[redunshee]

Okay thanks. I think I remember either you or someone else mentioning the 2700 and 2800 series as a limber.

If you had a choice between the Craftsman 3.3 and a Poulan 3400, both for $60, which would you choose?

Well, I'm partial to the 3400 but would say the 3300 has better anti vibration and a higher rpm saw. The 3400 is easier to work on. The 3300 should be lighter.