Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Damn you guys are good. Able to diagnose a saw's issues online. Ya'll are saw doctors!
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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L is too rich as Tim suggested. Not to be confused with the richness of mix. Let it idle for a couple minutes or more and then quickly change the orientation of the saw - roll it over. If the idle starts to nose dive or it quits fuel could be excessively pooling in the crank indicating a rich low setting. Just a thought as I am not an expert by any stretch here.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
Picture is there now, thanks.
Tim's advice will likely get your saw running. My advice will likely get you asking for Tim's advice after you follow it.
Nice saw. Hope it co-operates for you.
I'll sit down now.
Happy New Year.
Nice saw. Hope it co-operates for you.
I'll sit down now.
Happy New Year.
Just guessing. It would be nice if we could see them in person or in this case, hear it run.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks everyone, both screws are exactly 1 turn out. When it starts up the chain will move some but after it warms up it idles right and the chain doesn't move until you throttle it.
1 to 1 1/4 is about where you need to be on it. What oil are you using and what ratio?
I see this all the time on old saws that had been run for years with a heavy mix of older style dino oil.
The newer oils, especially the synthetic blends and full synthetics will actually clean out the carbon deposits in that muffler. That is probably what your seeing there.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Huh that's interesting, thanks Mark. I'm using stihl oil in the orange bottle and at 40:1.
Did you disable the governor in the carb? Been revving it up some in the shop?
Go get it warmed up good and run a tank of gas through it out cutting with it.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
No governor is still on it. And yes just been running it in the shop. Haven't got it in wood yet but will this Saturday.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
A little new years eve saw work with my brother in law. Piston and cylinder swap from one 5200 with a bad case but good p/c to another 5200 parts saw with bad p/c but good case.
Sty57
Tree Freak
Make sure you vac/pressure test that one. So you don't end up with two bad ones.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Use the Silver bottle of Stihl oil. Much better. 40/1 ratio is 3.2oz. of oil(128/40).
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Question: have a PP475 that pulling the recoil will make a man of you. Almost impossible to pull unless you get the piston to TDC. No decomp on saw. Anyone else with a 475 seen the same thing?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pulls very easy with plug out. Running, well that's my next issue. It runs but idle is way too high. chain spins around pretty fast. Passed presuure/vacuum test so no air leaks. Next step is to pull carb and run it thru my USC and rebuild it. I just did this last year.. I've had carb off before but its a pain to remove. I did replace the piston with a Stihl piston . model I forget. Mark and another member helped me out with correct piston. However don't think that's the issue.
I'm pretty sure Mark did a write up or at least discussed, some time ago on installing a decomp on a 475.
I did at that. With a Stihl piston the comp on the 2 I did was approaching 200lbs. Thats too much for that flimsy plastic recoil to live with.
The 2 I had did have the boss for a decomp so it was pretty easy to just drill and tap the cyl and use a Husky decomp. The biggest job for me was getting the hole drilled in the right place on the top cover.
I think someone said not all cyls have the boss on them though, not sure if that was 475's or on some 2077's.
I fell out of love with those saws, there way too plastic and delicate. I still have one that Andre done but I wouldn't use it much for work.
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