Nik's Poulan Thread

[blk05crew]

Good advice Gregg!

 

[fossil]

That saw looks fantastic! Nice score. I would definitely tear everything down and give it a once over and clean up BEFORE trying to start it. I know, its tough not to, wanting to hear it running..LOL I would definitely rebuild the carb, new fuel lines, and fuel filter, spark plug, just because..

You might want to check before you order a carb kit for it. Some of these, like my 375 use a Zama C3A, instead of the usual Walbro. They look very similar and either will work as well as the other on the saw. But, I think the kits are different.

Another thing, Ya might want to refrain from using carb cleaner, ether etc. trying to get a balky saw running. It pretty much just washes the oil from your cyl. bearings, etc. If they won't start with a fresh fuel/oil mix, there is something else wrong.. Just a thought.

Congrats on the new saw!!!
Gregg,

After reading many of your posts, you definitely should have been in the diplomatic service. Concise, accurate, and polite. I wish I could have learned that.
Anyhow, glad your're back.

 

[OhioGregg]

Update on my SP 380 build. It's coming along. After a tear down, port cleaning and base gasket delete. Rebuilt the carb after an ultra sonic bath. I also put a bigger (I think) fuel line. I put a 1/4" tygon line on, I drilled the tank hole out to 15/64" fits snug but doesn't kink either. New pulse line on too.
So work stops till the new parts come in: new muffler, some bolts, starter handle, carb kit (to replace one I used) and a new cylinder cover...The cover is bad boy purple, had no choice black is obsolete. I have the original but the a$$ who owned it before melted all the air baffles so bad I'm nervous to run it. I'm just gonna have to paint the purple one. I'm still looking for decals and the HD recoil off either a 380 or 330, It came with a 305 on it. Nice to see the giladroni cyl on thereView attachment 392043View attachment 392044View attachment 392046View attachment 392047

Nice job Joe! Sorry I don't have any extra parts for that saw. I know what ya mean about the purple cover. I had one on mine for a while, till I found a decent black one for it. LOL Nothing wrong with a 3750 Bad Boy, same saw, just looks like a wild thing. I never had one, but I know Kevin, (JeremiahJohnson) had a number of them.

Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

After reading many of your posts, you definitely should have been in the diplomatic service. Concise, accurate, and polite. I wish I could have learned that.
Anyhow, glad your're back.

LOL, Thanks Tim.... There are a number of fellas on here that know WAY more about saws than I ever will. And I put you up near the top of that list too. Mark has us all beat with the knowledge of these Poulan saws. He can come across a little gruff and short at times, LOL but I love him just the way he is. Now he is concise and to the point!

Gregg,

 

[Ambull01]

That saw looks fantastic! Nice score. I would definitely tear everything down and give it a once over and clean up BEFORE trying to start it. I know, its tough not to, wanting to hear it running..LOL I would definitely rebuild the carb, new fuel lines, and fuel filter, spark plug, just because..

You might want to check before you order a carb kit for it. Some of these, like my 375 use a Zama C3A, instead of the usual Walbro. They look very similar and either will work as well as the other on the saw. But, I think the kits are different.

Another thing, Ya might want to refrain from using carb cleaner, ether etc. trying to get a balky saw running. It pretty much just washes the oil from your cyl. bearings, etc. If they won't start with a fresh fuel/oil mix, there is something else wrong.. Just a thought.

Congrats on the new saw!!!
Gregg,

Damn, your saw looks immaculate? Do you have OCD?

I know, it's 11:30 p.m. and all I want to do is go outside and start it up lol. It's going to be tough leaving it in my shed while I gather the necessary items.

Hmm, the guy said carb cleaner was safe to use because it contained oils. Knew I shouldn't have listened to him. Didn't look like he knew what he was doing trying to adjust the jets. I got it to run fairly well when I finally took the saw out of his hands. Once started the first time, the saw came to life after that just on fuel mix.

I need to sit down and read/research this saw. I didn't see an impulse line but maybe these models just have one line going into the carb. Also, I kind of want a chain brake on it. I'll have to research if it's feasible to add one on.

For all you guys, do you wish your saws had a chain brake? I've only used saws with chain brakes so I have no first hand experience how they compare.

 

[blk05crew]

I think if you are using your saw safely and and know what your doing you'll be fine without the chain break. Guys used saws forever without them.

 

[Ambull01]

I think if you are using your saw safely and and know what your doing you'll be fine without the chain break. Guys used saws forever without them.

True, good point. I just got into the habit of engaging the chain break whenever I put the saw down. It may feel weird without one, almost like OhioGregg's thumb without a manual oiler.

 

[OhioGregg]

Damn, your saw looks immaculate? Do you have OCD?

I know, it's 11:30 p.m. and all I want to do is go outside and start it up lol. It's going to be tough leaving it in my shed while I gather the necessary items.

Hmm, the guy said carb cleaner was safe to use because it contained oils. Knew I shouldn't have listened to him. Didn't look like he knew what he was doing trying to adjust the jets. I got it to run fairly well when I finally took the saw out of his hands. Once started the first time, the saw came to life after that just on fuel mix.

I need to sit down and read/research this saw. I didn't see an impulse line but maybe these models just have one line going into the carb. Also, I kind of want a chain brake on it. I'll have to research if it's feasible to add one on.

For all you guys, do you wish your saws had a chain brake? I've only used saws with chain brakes so I have no first hand experience how they compare.

I'm kinda old fashion I guess.. Most of my saws don't have a brake. I personally don't much care for them. But to each his own. I see your 375 is missing the hand guard. I would look for one of those at the very least. The 395 came with brakes I do believe, but the 375, not so much. You can add them. Ones from any of that long list of midsize saws should work.

Fellas in Canada, like Tim (Fossil) I think will likely encounter brake type early Poulans, more often than us in the states. I think brakes were mandated in Canada long before the US followed suite. You occasionally will see a brake set or parts on ebay. Someone selling out old stock from a closed dealer, etc.

Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

Just to add to that thing about chain brakes. They were available and installed as a dealer option I believe. They were listed in the IPL's from the beginning. I have noticed in small print in Poulans brochures, that they didn't think them necessary or needed. I'm not saying they aren't a good thing...I just don't care for them.

Gregg,

 

[fossil]

They do make the saws noticeably heavier on these models as they are all mag except for the steel handle,
The brakes are more common on the rebranded 3400 / 3800 saws around me like Craftsman, Canadian Tire, and the few Skils I've seen have them as well.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

That saw looks fantastic! Nice score. I would definitely tear everything down and give it a once over and clean up BEFORE trying to start it. I know, its tough not to, wanting to hear it running..LOL I would definitely rebuild the carb, new fuel lines, and fuel filter, spark plug, just because..

You might want to check before you order a carb kit for it. Some of these, like my 375 use a Zama C3A, instead of the usual Walbro. They look very similar and either will work as well as the other on the saw. But, I think the kits are different.

Another thing, Ya might want to refrain from using carb cleaner, ether etc. trying to get a balky saw running. It pretty much just washes the oil from your cyl. bearings, etc. If they won't start with a fresh fuel/oil mix, there is something else wrong.. Just a thought.

Congrats on the new saw!!!
Gregg,

Thanks for the info Gregg! That's why I love this site. I learn something new all the time!

I have to correct myself with the "cheapest" HDB kit this is now the cheapest that I can find.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-WAL...504?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c95834d0

It appears that the Zama C3A kits are even less money.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Rebuil...000?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46233f9440

Ambull - When rebuilding the carb one thing that I did not know in the beginning was making sure the metering lever was set correct.

Here's the Zama service PDF--

http://www.zamacarb.com/images/techsupport/DisassemblyC1U.pdf

And the Walbro HDB carbs - metering level is set flush with the housing.

 

[joe25DA]

The brake I had on one of my 4000s and both 395s added some heft to the saw. The handle and guts are steel and the cover is beefed up magnesium.
On A chain brake saw, I use it as a parking brake while I'm transporting it, where as one without if I'm in the brush I'll shut it off

 

[OhioGregg]

I need to sit down and read/research this saw. I didn't see an impulse line but maybe these models just have one line going into the carb. Also, I kind of want a chain brake on it. I'll have to research if it's feasible to add one on.

Yes, these saws have a impulse passage through the intake manifold directly into the carb . Thats why it is important that its clean and not blocked by a bad gasket, and why you don't want extra sealers etc. like Permetex Moto Seal in there. Just a clean well mated surface & gasket.

Both the Walbro & Zama carbs will work and can be swapped on these midsize counter-vibe saws. I know, I tried it. LOL I think, and this is just my opinion, that Poulan made the PP375 & 395 at the very end of this line of saws. They probably got a better "deal" price wise from Zama on the carbs as a supplier at the time over Walbro. Who knows?

Gregg,

 

[fossil]

There is lots of info on the net regarding both carbs.

Zama
http://www.zamacarb.com/page/disassembly_servicing_1

Walbro
http://www.walbro.com/techtipsmetering

Don't remove he welch plugs unless you absolutely have to.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

bull, I agree with Stephen, YOU SUCK

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

After reading many of your posts, you definitely should have been in the diplomatic service. Concise, accurate, and polite. I wish I could have learned that.
Anyhow, glad your're back.

Agree.

Agree.

Likewise.

Agree!

 

[Ambull01]

bull, I agree with Stephen, YOU SUCK

Hold on now, what's with all the hatred? Not like I have 400 saws lol

 

[Ambull01]

That's one model I don't have, I did clone a thin ring 3.7 like a farm proView attachment 391987

Good looking saw. I like the red and black colors almost as much as the lime green/yellow and black.

Thanks for the info Gregg! That's why I love this site. I learn something new all the time!

I have to correct myself with the "cheapest" HDB kit this is now the cheapest that I can find.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-WAL...504?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c95834d0

It appears that the Zama C3A kits are even less money.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Rebuil...000?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46233f9440

Ambull - When rebuilding the carb one thing that I did not know in the beginning was making sure the metering lever was set correct.

Here's the Zama service PDF--

http://www.zamacarb.com/images/techsupport/DisassemblyC1U.pdf

And the Walbro HDB carbs - metering level is set flush with the housing.

Never even heard of a metering level. Thanks for the links.

The brake I had on one of my 4000s and both 395s added some heft to the saw. The handle and guts are steel and the cover is beefed up magnesium.
On A chain brake saw, I use it as a parking brake while I'm transporting it, where as one without if I'm in the brush I'll shut it off

Yeah that's what I do too. Gives me a little more piece of mine know the brake is on while I'm holding it. Shutting it off would work too though lol.

Yes, these saws have a impulse passage through the intake manifold directly into the carb . Thats why it is important that its clean and not blocked by a bad gasket, and why you don't want extra sealers etc. like Permetex Moto Seal in there. Just a clean well mated surface & gasket.

Both the Walbro & Zama carbs will work and can be swapped on these midsize counter-vibe saws. I know, I tried it. LOL I think, and this is just my opinion, that Poulan made the PP375 & 395 at the very end of this line of saws. They probably got a better "deal" price wise from Zama on the carbs as a supplier at the time over Walbro. Who knows?

Gregg,

You know what, maybe that's why the damn thing sounds like it's starving for fuel at WOT after a prolonged cut. Could have sworn there was only one tube going into the carb when the guy put the lines back on after the cleaning. I may just be mistaken and didn't see him replace the impulse line though, not sure if the saw would even run without both lines attached to the carb. If it is missing an impulse line, that sounds like a relatively easy fix.

There is lots of info on the net regarding both carbs.

Zama
http://www.zamacarb.com/page/disassembly_servicing_1

Walbro
http://www.walbro.com/techtipsmetering

Don't remove he welch plugs unless you absolutely have to.

Okay, I'll make myself a note. You guys just may make me into a Poulan chainsaw repair hack. Only time will tell

 

[fossil]

Just in case you didn't know, that's a compliment on getting a nice saw.

 

[Ambull01]

Just in case you didn't know, that's a compliment on getting a nice saw.

Yeah I figured that out.

"I may be ignorant but I ain't stupid." Sorry, always wanted to do that Coal Miner's Daughter quote lol