Hmmm. Thats strange. Mine has two half moon "notches" on the edge of the center section of the clutch. These pins just fit in those notches. This is a different tool that is used for a 5200, that has holes on the clutch.
Gregg,
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Hmmm. Thats strange. Mine has two half moon "notches" on the edge of the center section of the clutch. These pins just fit in those notches. This is a different tool that is used for a 5200, that has holes on the clutch.
Gregg,
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
No notches on the clutch at all. I tried the clutch tool and it wouldn't fit. Do you have a two or three shoe clutch?
Well...Ya learn something new all the time. I didn't know they had different clutches for them saws. Mine is a two shoe I guess. 
Went out and took a pic. At least you can see the two notches I was talking about.
Went out and took a pic. At least you can see the two notches I was talking about.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well...Ya learn something new all the time. I didn't know they had different clutches for them saws. Mine is a two shoe I guess.
Thought it was counter clockwise to get the clutches off? Do I have a Chinese built PP375?
Yep 2 different clutches used. Had them both.
Clockwise to remove.
Clockwise to remove.
All clutches are the same that I have ever seen anyway, or can remember. LOL Turn clockwise to loosen, just the opposite from screws or bolts you would normally see. Its so the clutch doesn't loosen up on ya while running.
Gregg.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Doesn't your pic show clockwise to get it off? Sorry if it was mentioned in this thread previously. I wasn't getting post notifications for this thread so thought it went to an early grave. Had no idea you guys were still posting so there's a few pages I need to read over.
I will trade you a Craftsman 3700 for the 4000!!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Everyone is happy!
YES!! Thats the only way I have ever seen them. Your PP375 is the same way. All my Poulans are the same way. Left hand thread is another way to say it, or look at it.
Gregg,
Oh heII no the 4000 is the only one in that series I would want. Wrong 3.7 by the way.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
YES!! Thats the only way I have ever seen them. Your PP375 is the same way. All my Poulans are the same way. Left hand thread is another way to say it, or look at it.
Gregg,
Oh man you're right! lmao. I don't know what I was thinking.
I haven't seen many saws, but the crank on my Pioneer 3270sc has a right hand threaded nut and lock washer holding on the clutch. The problem was the threads were not proud of the nut enough . So, I am thinking standard left-hand.
Boy oh boy did I get that clutch snugged down big time.
Boy oh boy did I get that clutch snugged down big time.
EDIT!!
It was brought to my attention there is a missprint in my files and the SKF 5523 is not the right seal, The Dichtomatik 056081TC seal is also listed and crosses to the SKF 5522.
Fat fingers and keyboards...
Never mind see post #35513 the 5523 number is right.
Scratch the clutch tool the 3 shoe 380 clutch should have the hex right on it. Like this..
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Since this 16" nos Poulan bar I got for the s25cva is the wrong mount, I'm going to get one that is right for the saw. Does anyone have any interest in this bar, I don't see myself using for anything.
Do you oil the top handle air filter or put them in dry, can't remember.
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
Help with points please. I have the repair manual thanks to a fellow member for the 141 and have the ignition apart. The points are the 2 small round contacts that open and close with the shaft rotation right? What should I clean then with and what exactly am I setting at .015".
I'll end up pulling the whole ignition housing off eventually. When I place it back on and have to set the gap to the flywheel and coil can I use the " business card" method. (lightly tighten bolts on housing, slide flywheel on and do not bolt down, set gap with business card, slide flywheel back off and tighten down- gap now set) Tell me if I'm wrong in my thinking. Thanks in advance.
I'll end up pulling the whole ignition housing off eventually. When I place it back on and have to set the gap to the flywheel and coil can I use the " business card" method. (lightly tighten bolts on housing, slide flywheel on and do not bolt down, set gap with business card, slide flywheel back off and tighten down- gap now set) Tell me if I'm wrong in my thinking. Thanks in advance.
Set and tighten the points with the flywheel OFF. Yes, the points are the two small round contacts that open and close. The points on most saws that I know of are opened/closed by an eccentric on the crankshaft. Turn the shaft until the points are as open as they're gonna be. Place your 0.015" feeler gage between the points and adjust the points (using the built-in slot and a screwdriver) until there is very SLIGHT contact between the two points and the gage. Remove the gage. Without opening the points try to insert the gage between the points. There should be microscopic movement of the points and should still be light contact. Put the cover back on the points. Place the flywheel and torque it down to the torque given in your manual. Voila!
Many opinions on how to dress the surface of the points. I use a points file (can be acquired at NAPA Auto parts). Be sure that the surfaces of the two points are in full contact when closed. Be SURE to clean the points off before setting gap. I use carb cleaner and a CLEAN business card. Turn the crank until the points are totally closed. Open the points with your fingers or screwdriver. Insert business card. Let the points snap shut and drag the card out. Repeat this until you're sure there's no more residue on the points (2 - 3 snaps should do it but more doesn't hurt.
Very important that no crap remains in point case. Also, be sure to LIGHTLY oil the piece of fabric that rubs against the crank. Don't want oil oozing out but do want enough to lub the eccentric. The oil keeps down the friction between the points arm and the shaft. Keeping friction down keeps heat down and extends the life of your points.
Think about what and why you're doing this. Educate yourself as to how this all works. Probly a write up in your manual.
Lastly, go forth and conquer
Many opinions on how to dress the surface of the points. I use a points file (can be acquired at NAPA Auto parts). Be sure that the surfaces of the two points are in full contact when closed. Be SURE to clean the points off before setting gap. I use carb cleaner and a CLEAN business card. Turn the crank until the points are totally closed. Open the points with your fingers or screwdriver. Insert business card. Let the points snap shut and drag the card out. Repeat this until you're sure there's no more residue on the points (2 - 3 snaps should do it but more doesn't hurt.
Very important that no crap remains in point case. Also, be sure to LIGHTLY oil the piece of fabric that rubs against the crank. Don't want oil oozing out but do want enough to lub the eccentric. The oil keeps down the friction between the points arm and the shaft. Keeping friction down keeps heat down and extends the life of your points.
Think about what and why you're doing this. Educate yourself as to how this all works. Probly a write up in your manual.
Lastly, go forth and conquer
