Nik's Poulan Thread

[ChipsFlyin]

great, got it running?
yeah that's the same system we OFs grew up with cept we could set dwell (another name for point gap cept it was a measurement of how long the points were open; samey same but more accurate). if you pay attention you can tell who the OFs are by the systems we're familiar with. just sayin.

We have good spark. Was able to barrow a flywheel nut off my 3.3 parts saw. So that side of the saw is done for now. Movin on.

Tim - I might be younger than you guys but feel kinda the same thing with the generation behind me. It's just with the newer old stuff. I still have a flip phone....

 

[blk05crew]

I still consider myself pretty young but for me there has always been something about the older stuff, cars, saws, whatever that has a draw for me. Things that were made right and mostly in the USA and
if you took care them they would last forever. Plus everything is so much simpler and easier to work on.

 

[Acornhill]

I see there are two styles of tin muffler for the 245A, one with 3 pieces and one with 5 pieces. The cylinder for the 3 piece muffler has two mounting bosses (both of my 245A bow saws have this) and the cylinder for the 5 piece muffler has 3 mounting boses. Is one just an earlier version than the other?

 

[hotshot]

I also found this vid in my search. Figured I'd post it for other guys if they are wondering what you are talking about with your instruction.

Good Donyboy vid, looks like Pioneer used all Wico parts in there.

Did you catch that left hand thread nut on the flywheel side?, I think that the Poulan 361 are that way too. Matter of fact, the saw resembles a P361 a lot.

I'll bet he had a king sized headache from all the oil smoke that belched out!

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Good Donyboy vid, looks like Pioneer used all Wico parts in there.

Did you catch that left hand thread nut on the flywheel side?, I think that the Poulan 361 are that way too. Matter of fact, the saw resembles a P361 a lot.

I'll bet he had a king sized headache from all the oil smoke that belched out!

The 141A/401A that I have has rt hand threads.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I did what you said and now understand the why and how, in basic terms . It really does not make much sense to work on something and not know what it is supposed to be doing. I, also, found this vid in my search. Figured I'd post it for other guys if they are wondering what you are talking about with your instruction. The saw being worked on is a Pioneer 10-60 but the ignition is exactly the same. After looking around that ignition set up looks like it was common back in the day.

don't mean to be picky - wait! - yeah i do. couple comments on the video.

• clean the residue off the face of the points left from filing of the points
• clean the points before setting them
• looked like he had some buggers on his screwdriver. use clean tools.
• noticed some crap fell into the points case. didn't notice if he removed it but is very important you don't have random stuff flying around in the points case. a little over the top but think "sterile" when you open and close the points case.
• use mix to prime the engine, not something out of a rattle can. especially if its been sitting in storage for a while.

otherwise, good vid. enjoyed it.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I don't. I'm thinking that's what the oiled rectangular felt seal is for. also, if you do grease the cam it will be wiped off, or absorbed, by the felt seal. I know we used to grease the cam on cars but don't recall if there were felt seals. others may disagree though. I'm certainly not an expert, just shade tree.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

I don't. I'm thinking that's what the oiled rectangular felt seal is for. also, if you do grease the cam it will be wiped off, or absorbed, by the felt seal. I know we used to grease the cam on cars but don't recall if there were felt seals. others may disagree though. I'm certainly not an expert, just shade tree.

Like you said - I oiled up the felt - with teflon. I figured it takes an additional 10-15 min to to completely tear down, clean and reassemble the points.... If I was in there why not get ALL the dirt out. I did not like the sand paper for cleaning the points and did not have a point file so I used a wore down cardboard nail file thin did a quick hit with the shop vac.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

too bad you didn't join before October 2013. I spent last winter working in monaca. could have met up.

 

[fossil]

I don't. I'm thinking that's what the oiled rectangular felt seal is for. also, if you do grease the cam it will be wiped off, or absorbed, by the felt seal. I know we used to grease the cam on cars but don't recall if there were felt seals. others may disagree though. I'm certainly not an expert, just shade tree.

I don't remember seeing felt wicks on cars but that doesn't mean spit. I suspect many points sets did have them. I don't think many aftermarket sets did. All magneto 2 strokes I've worked on had a wick. They used to recommend 2 drops of 30 weight motor oil on the wicks.
Make sure the felt washer(s) under (and some over) the points box on the crankshaft are in place to keep dust and oil out

 

[blk05crew]

I posted this on the regular chainsaw forum a few weeks ago, but I thought I'd share it here too. I went up to the woods with my father in law and brother in law to do some milling, my brother in law was
wanting to make a bench for his kids to sit on to take off shoes before they go in the house.
Anyway here is a picture of what we came back with and another picture of the bench he built before the stain went on.

 

[hotshot]

Here is the diaphragm kit I got from Poulan, when I rebuilt the C3A on my 375.

Gregg,

----PP375 ZAMA CARB INFO ONLY---

Attached below is a crappy parts list sent fresh from the ZAMA Headquarters in Franklin, TN. They could not locate an illustrated or exploded view.

The yellow colored PP375 saw sometimes used a ZAMA C3A-W3 carb, & is no longer listed in any current ZAMA literature. The other PP375 carb was the Walbro HDB series.

The ZAMA rebuild kit is a RB-33 (Poulan #530-35285), but it is also NLA. Note that the ZAMA IPL has the diaphragm kit GND-23 listed as equivalent to a Poulan #530-035284, instead of Gregg's correct #530-035282 above.

The W3 metering diaphragm is a bit different than the ZAMA C3A-S series used on some Stihls, but I think every thing else is the same. The common Stihl diaphragm kit is an GND-21, and I will check to see if it's metering diaphragm could also be made to work on the C3A-W3, as only the outer periphery is different.

Edit, the metering diaphragm in the $4 ZAMA GND-21 kit works fine. No need to hunt down the obsolete -23 kit.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

too bad you didn't join before October 2013. I spent last winter working in monaca. could have met up.

Small world. That's about 35-40 min from me.

 

[blk05crew]

After taking the cylinder back off of the 5200 I'm having trouble with, I cleaned all the MotoSeal 1 off of the cylinder and the case and make a new gasket for it instead.
Put everything back together last night and still the same problem, getting fuel and has strong spark outside of the cylinder when I test it, but won't even pop when I try
and start it. So I think I'm going get new bearing seals and see if that fixes the problem, it may have an air leak there I don't know. I have the maintenance manuals for
the 5200 but does anyone who has replaced these before have any tips or tricks or is it pretty strait forward?

 

[blk05crew]

I've got to go back to my picking spot on Saturday, I need one more small screw. Does anybody have any parts that they are having a tough time finding, I can take a look if so and their prices are pretty fair.
Send me a pm if you want me to check on something. P/C are pretty much all gone, but lots of other good parts on saws.

 

[hotshot]

Nate, have you got a pressure tester built up?, it's only a $15 investment for 1/4" fuel line tubing, tee, a
blood pressure bulb & a 0-15# gauge. Works good for leak testing carb needles too.

 

[blk05crew]

Nate, have you got a pressure tester built up?, it's only a $15 investment for 1/4" fuel line tubing, tee, a
blood pressure bulb & a 0-15# gauge. Works good for leak testing carb needles too.

My brother in law has a compression tester that I'm going to check with because it doesn't seem to have as much compression as my other running 5200. I don't think it's the carb because
I've tried 2 different carbs and both worked on the other saw.

 

[fossil]

Nate,

The engine should pop vacuum leak or not when you put mix through the carb or cylinder hole. Did you check to make sure the flywheel key has not sheared?
You should change the plug if you haven't done so before you try anything else as some plugs will fire outside the cylinder but not under compression.

 

[blk05crew]

Nate,

The engine should pop vacuum leak or not when you put mix through the carb or cylinder hole. Did you check to make sure the flywheel key has not sheared?
You should change the plug if you haven't done so before you try anything else as some plugs will fire outside the cylinder but not under compression.

I've tried 2 plugs one them brand new. I didn't check the flywheel key, I'm not quite sure what that is. We did remove the flywheel during the P/C swap and then
put it back on. The pull cord does slip every so often when I try and start it.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Nate,

The engine should pop vacuum leak or not when you put mix through the carb or cylinder hole. Did you check to make sure the flywheel key has not sheared?
You should change the plug if you haven't done so before you try anything else as some plugs will fire outside the cylinder but not under compression.

Did you take a close look at the plug wire to make sure it is not grounding itself when the plug is in. With the plug out and connected it may be pulled away just enough from the metal to allow spark.