Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

Scratch the clutch tool the 3 shoe 380 clutch should have the hex right on it. Like this.. View attachment 400469

It does but try and get a socket to stay tight. I tried all sizes and even the one that fits just spins around the hex when using an impact or slips off using a breaker bar. Doesn't seem deep enough to get a good bite. Could be mine us just worn.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Set and tighten the points with the flywheel OFF. Yes, the points are the two small round contacts that open and close. The points on most saws that I know of are opened/closed by an eccentric on the crankshaft. Turn the shaft until the points are as open as they're gonna be. Place your 0.015" feeler gage between the points and adjust the points (using the built-in slot and a screwdriver) until there is very SLIGHT contact between the two points and the gage.....
Lastly, go forth and conquer

Thank You Jerry! copy pasted to word so I could print and keep.

After a 1/2 can of carb cleaner and tooth brush. If that blue wire looks off - I had to build a new one - it's the coil to on/off switch. Done for this evening. Time for supper and TV show with the wife.

 

[hotshot]

EDIT!!

It was brought to my attention there is a missprint in my files and the SKF 5523 is not the right seal, The Dichtomatik 056081TC seal is also listed and crosses to the SKF 5522.

Fat fingers and keyboards...

You had it right, either SKF seal will work but the 5522 has no garter spring. The 5522 would be good for an axle application.

I'd use the 5523 or the Dichto over the 5522 because they do hold vacuum better.

It made me get my fat azz off the couch & onto the PC to double check the numbers though!

 

[Modifiedmark]

You had it right, either SKF seal will work but the 5522 has no garter spring. The 5522 would be good for an axle application.

I'd use the 5523 or the Dichto over the 5522 because they do hold vacuum better.

It made me get my fat azz off the couch & onto the PC to double check the numbers though!

Thanks Randy, I got cha now. I had given that number to Jerry but he questioned it as it didn't match the dimensions that he got from Aaron. I figured you had it right to begin with.

 

[hotshot]

Jerry can go to the SKF-Chicago Rawhide website and plug the part numbers directly in. It gives you shaft, bore & thickness for each one of them, & they're identical.


Nate, have you actually tried to fit that bar onto your Poulan S25DA? Is there a part number stamped on it?

That grey banana looks just like the one I run on one of my S25 saws, but only its a 10" long #44192. It's obvious that I don't suffer from the "short bar syndrome", LOL!

Using full house 3/8" #72 chain, it's an oak limbing buzz saw for only 38cc. No need for the low profile #91 series chain for that saw with a short bar.

I'm talking about limbing after the tree is down on the ground...not pruning overhead!

 

[blk05crew]

Jerry can go to the SKF-Chicago Rawhide website and plug the part numbers directly in. It gives you shaft, bore & thickness for each one of them, & they're identical.


Nate, have you actually tried to fit that bar onto your Poulan S25DA? Is there a part number stamped on it?

That grey banana looks just like the one I run on one of my S25 saws, but only its a 10" long #44192.

Using full house 3/8" #72 chain, it's an oak limbing buzz saw for only 38cc. No need for the low profile #91 series chain for that saw with a short bar. I'm talking about limbing after the tree is down on the ground...not pruning overhead!

I did try and it seems to fit it's just longer than the other 16" and needs a longer chain that the other 16". It's PN #44196. I'm just not sure though on the fitment.

 

[hotshot]

I did try and it seems to fit it's just longer than the other 16" and needs a longer chain that the other 16". It's PN #44196. I'm just not sure though on the fitment.

I guess the shape of the bar requires a longer drive count. This 10" uses 40 DLs of 3/8" so you have to spin them up yourself.

 

[blk05crew]

That's correct, I guess the shape of the bar requires a longer drive count. This 10" uses 40 DLs of 3/8" so you have to spin them up yourself.

So this bar is good I just need the correct dl chain?

 

[blackoak]

Is it just me or does this happen to you guys also. A guy called last week needing a recoil starter for a 3300. I had one here that's been here for a long time. I sold it to him for five bucks, he was happy and I was happy to get him back cutting wood. Today I stop on the way home from work at a junk yard and pick this up. Well just guess what it's missing. I pulled a starter off one of my 3300 I have and put it on this one and it fired right up. A good cleaning and probably new fuel lines and the carb gone through and yes, a recoil starter that I no longer have should have this saw good to go. Anybody have a recoil starter in their stash of Poulan parts they want to sell. I would even welcome a yellow one. If you do have one but don't want to sell it,,,,I don't blame you one bit because you will probably need it next week.

 

[hotshot]

QUOTE="blk05crew, post: 5191143, member: 124311"]So this bar is good I just need the correct dl chain?[/QUOTE]

Yes, so you have tried a 16" "standard" 56DL chain on it from your other bar, and it's too short?
Notice that Oregon's website also lists both 56 & 58 DLs for the 16" bar, so I'll bet that it's a 58DL. A quick call to
Oregon customer service 1-800-223-5168 will tell you, as those are nothing but old Oregon made "Guard Tip" bars.

A lot of guys don't like the banana shaped bars because you can't flip them over to even out the rail wear, but they're cheaper
and easier to find. So just run 'em hard and & toss them out when they're worn open on the bottom.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Thanks Randy, I got cha now. I had given that number to Jerry but he questioned it as it didn't match the dimensions that he got from Aaron. I figured you had it right to begin with.

Jerry can go to the SKF-Chicago Rawhide website and plug the part numbers directly in. It gives you shaft, bore & thickness for each one of them, & they're identical.


Nate, have you actually tried to fit that bar onto your Poulan S25DA? Is there a part number stamped on it?

That grey banana looks just like the one I run on one of my S25 saws, but only its a 10" long #44192.

Using full house 3/8" #72 chain, it's an oak limbing buzz saw for only 38cc. No need for the low profile #91 series chain for that saw with a short bar. I'm talking about limbing after the tree is down on the ground...not pruning overhead!

thanks guys.

 

[hotshot]

Now that I'm back on a PC, here's the direct link to save for the SKF-Chicago Rawhide seal identification, use
the "Seals North America Part Look up". I noticed that their pictures are not of the same exact seal, so don't be surprised
if you see something different there than what you pulled off the saw.

They also have a search engine, on that same page, but the dam thing takes exact thousandths of an inch
as an input to get a part number hit...pain in the butt. A little saw seal is usually 0.003" to 5 over bore size, so you have
to keep guessing.

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457010.htm

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/

 

[blk05crew]

QUOTE="blk05crew, post: 5191143, member: 124311"]So this bar is good I just need the correct dl chain?

Yes, so you have tried a 16" "standard" 56DL chain on it from your other bar, and it's too short?
Notice that Oregon's website also lists both 56 & 58 DLs for the 16" bar, so I'll bet that it's a 58DL. A quick call to
Oregon customer service 1-800-223-5168 will tell you, as those are nothing but old Oregon made "Guard Tip" bars.

A lot of guys don't like the banana shaped bars because you can't flip them over to even out the rail wear, but they're cheaper
and easier to find. So just run 'em hard and & toss them out when they're worn open on the bottom.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the response, I'll try and find the right DL chain for it. I did try the chain from the other 16" bar and it was too short. Maybe it just needs a 58DL.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Set and tighten the points with the flywheel OFF. Yes, the points are the two small round contacts that open and close. The points on most saws that I know of are opened/closed by an eccentric on the crankshaft. Turn the shaft until the points are as open as they're gonna be. Place your 0.015" feeler gage between the points and adjust the points (using the built-in slot and a screwdriver) until there is very SLIGHT contact between the two points and the gage. Remove the gage. Without opening the points try to insert the gage between the points. There should be microscopic movement of the points and should still be light contact. Put the cover back on the points. Place the flywheel and torque it down to the torque given in your manual. Voila!
Lastly, go forth and conquer

I did what you said and now understand the why and how, in basic terms . It really does not make much sense to work on something and not know what it is supposed to be doing. I, also, found this vid in my search. Figured I'd post it for other guys if they are wondering what you are talking about with your instruction. The saw being worked on is a Pioneer 10-60 but the ignition is exactly the same. After looking around that ignition set up looks like it was common back in the day.

 

[blk05crew]

Went to my picking spot today at lunch because I needed a muffler bolt for the 3400 I'm doing for my Dad. Also ended up picking up a good 245a/306a air filter with all the flocking and a good 5200 clutch cover with the sticker on it that just needs to be cleaned and degreased. Not bad for 15 minutes.

 

[stubnail67]

Is it just me or does this happen to you guys also. A guy called last week needing a recoil starter for a 3300. I had one here that's been here for a long time. I sold it to him for five bucks, he was happy and I was happy to get him back cutting wood. Today I stop on the way home from work at a junk yard and pick this up. Well just guess what it's missing. I pulled a starter off one of my 3300 I have and put it on this one and it fired right up. A good cleaning and probably new fuel lines and the carb gone through and yes, a recoil starter that I no longer have should have this saw good to go. Anybody have a recoil starter in their stash of Poulan parts they want to sell. I would even welcome a yellow one. If you do have one but don't want to sell it,,,,I don't blame you one bit because you will probably need it next week.

 

[stubnail67]

i just did this with a red 3.7 sold a whole parts saw with a really good recoil ... went to fire mine up and it chewed the the plastic gear broke one dawg on the fly wheel and the post on the recoil cover the gear screws onto......think im done buying older ones for awhile..... will fix this one and call off the addiction for awhile.......put my money towards a few new toys.....

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I did what you said and now understand the why and how, in basic terms . It really does not make much sense to work on something and not know what it is supposed to be doing. I, also, found this vid in my search. Figured I'd post it for other guys if they are wondering what you are talking about with your instruction. The saw being worked on is a Pioneer 10-60 but the ignition is exactly the same. After looking around that ignition set up looks like it was common back in the day.

great, got it running?
yeah that's the same system we OFs grew up with cept we could set dwell (another name for point gap cept it was a measurement of how long the points were open; samey same but more accurate). if you pay attention you can tell who the OFs are by the systems we're familiar with. just sayin.

 

[fossil]

great, got it running?
yeah that's the same system we OFs grew up with cept we could set dwell (another name for point gap cept it was a measurement of how long the points were open; samey same but more accurate). if you pay attention you can tell who the OFs are by the systems we're familiar with. just sayin.

You're right about that Jerry. Still looking for another advantage to aging though.
Those point systems are pretty robust on magneto systems and parts are generally way cheaper than some of the failing modules. You can play with the timing as well.
For the younger guys there's always a chip.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

great, got it running?
yeah that's the same system we OFs grew up with cept we could set dwell (another name for point gap cept it was a measurement of how long the points were open; samey same but more accurate). if you pay attention you can tell who the OFs are by the systems we're familiar with. just sayin.

Going to finish up the ignition this evening and see if there is spark. If spark, moving on to the fuel system- new lines and a kit- still did not order that. Then, I want to go through the oiling system. Bar needs cleaned up. chain needs sharpened. I have a dwell meter- was my grand paps - don't know how to use it but just could not part with it. The flywheel cover screws are incorrect and partially stripped so I have to tap them yet and use the correct style hex heads. Just going to take my time and do it right. Eventually will do the seals too. But want to see if it runs first.

More wrong with the saw than what seller said- actually I would say falsely described. The add said "went over the saw" had it running 1.5 years ago and the shelved it. There is no way with it missing the fuel p/u line and how filthy it was inside that any of her statements are true. 3 days to get it to the post office, 5 days sitting in NJ sort facility- I found out why- USPS had to completely repackage the saw. ( found a review on the seller "poor packaging") It still had a 1/2 tank of gas that should have been drained. I was going to let it all go until she got short with me in an email after I told her what I found and that the saw was repackaged. I'm a really nice guy but now I will press the issue for partial refund just for principal - I know I won't get it but worth a try. The saw stays with me so I'm not going to file a complaint- refund would mean send the saw back- under good conscience I would do so. That's another reason I'm really going over the saw.

Only second item that I ever bid on and won- I learn real fast though- If all the pictures are not crystal clear in any online add I will stay away. That is just an indicator on how a person most likely really is- lackadaisical and half***** and they do not want you to see something. It will be a runner when I'm done!