Nik's Poulan Thread

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Rugged made
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Acornhill said:
Ambull should buy that saw, try $120.00 shipped
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Let me see what it is. If it's a 5200 I'll try to buy it.

fossil said:
I don't know. Even if you run the saw until it runs out of gas there will be some left in the carb. The ethanol will accelerate rubber / fuel line deterioration.
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Damn it, just ruined my Makita then.
 
Has anyone on this blog even ever burned up a top end? I know I have not and i run saws pretty hard. I do use whatever fuel is the cheapest but mix good synthetic 2 stoke oil at 40 to 1. for everything. I have never had an issue.
 
Acornhill said:
Has anyone on this blog even ever burned up a top end? I know I have not and i run saws pretty hard. I do use whatever fuel is the cheapest but mix good synthetic 2 stoke oil at 40 to 1. for everything. I have never had an issue.
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I'm wondering about that too. Sounds like many people have been running the 10 percent ethanol for years with no ill effect. Then others only use non ethanol fuel. I think it may be fairly easy for the two if us to find non ethanol Marine fuel.

fossil said:
I wouldn't worry about it (unless you're joking). Some guys use the mixed fuel in the cans and run that through the saw for a few minutes when they plan to store it.
That stuff has no ethanol in it and generally contains fuel stabilizer.
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Well I was partially joking and partially serious. I try to use the saw every weekend so hopefully it's never stored.
 
Acornhill said:
Has anyone on this blog even ever burned up a top end? I know I have not and i run saws pretty hard. I do use whatever fuel is the cheapest but mix good synthetic 2 stoke oil at 40 to 1. for everything. I have never had an issue.
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Nope, never have. I used dino oil for years in my old 3400 and a couple others at 32:1. Then about 2008 or so I switched to synthetic from Bailey's at 40:1. Never had a issue from either.

Gregg,
 
Chevron Super Supreme 94 at 32:1 across the board for me. I like the way they smell at that ratio;). A fragrant blend of turpenes and 2-cycle oil when cutting. At least with the conventional oil.

I choose ethanol free for the reasons Tim mentioned. I know some of the carb kits state they are not to be used with >10% ethanol. I've experimented by briefly soaking very hard diaphragms in a blend of fluids/oils and pure ethanol at about 20%. It will temporarily soften those diaphragms up in a hurry. Given enough time, I figure running standard grade 10% would adversely effect those new kits based on my observations. Just my $0.02.
 
blk05crew said:
Just curious because there is a thread going on it right now in the chainsaw forum, but do you guys run non-ethanol gas in your Poulans? I've just run 87 octane unleaded.
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I pick up almost 20 gallons of ethanol free 90 octane in the spring and hit it with Sta-Bil. I use it for all my small engine stuff - saws, mower, wacker, snow blower, leaf blower and quad ... 2 cycle gets mixed a gal at a time as needed - 40:1 in everything with synthetic. I usually run out and get another 10 gallons buy late summer. I actually do keep whatever is left through the winter for the generator in case we get a goofy ice storm and the power goes out for a day or 2. The next spring I fill the quad, mower and dump the rest in the jeep and start over.

I don't notice a difference in performance on the small engines but am more comfortable knowing that ethanol is not eating away my fuel system and not adding water. For the quad (500cc) , it may be in my head, but I think the throttle response is much better.
 
fossil said:
My knowledge is limited as well but, here's what I think I remember from what I've read in the past. Modified Mark, Eccentric and others could list them off easily and more accurately.

5200

As time went on two extensions were added to the front of the saw case with three caps screws through the extensions. The old case has a flat fron like a 3400.
The the top cover was secured with a single nut with spring washer and this was changed to three screws. I have seen a pic of a slot screw instead of the nut.
An improvement was made to the starter cover spring anchor.
The 5200's all have 5/16" bar studs.
A top cover hand guard.

5400.

A larger tank with a hand guard (foot pad to some) on the rear handle was added. This also increased the distance between the handle bars. A new throttle linkage was required.
3/8" bar studs replaced the 5/16" bar studs but since the IPL for the 5400 shows both stud sizes and clutch covers I suspect they may have been a running change during 5400 production.
The front handle bar was changed (5400 and 8500 the same). A new spike design was introduced.
Both a top cover and handle bar mounted hand guards were used.

8500

New top cover and air filter system + the 5400 changes. More black in the paint scheme.
The top cover hand guard was used.

Chain brakes were available on all three models. I'm not sure when it was first available. There are two styles. One has the steel tube flag and the other is diecast. I have a diecast model.

The list is incomplete I feel and maybe one of the guys that know all three varieties can chime in.

The engine, crankshaft, piston, rod and cylinder, oil pump and clutch, are common to all three models, believe the ignition is the same as well

I believe they all wore the Tillotson HS 176A carbs.

Mine has an HS 168 carb which is the same carb minus the governor. It was used on the 4200 and may have been swapped out at some point.

For those of you that have not run one, They are all that folks say about them.
They make the 5 cube Pioneers and the 925 Homelites look slow although those saws are among my favorites.

I took mine to the Genius Fest GTG in Aug of this year where almost all of the attendees were new saw guys. It opened a few eyes. There is definitely a wow factor that is hard to find in other stock saws.

They are well worth the wait to find one. The 4200 is a great saw but does not come close to a 5200. Having said that, it is a very strong 70cc class saw.
There is also a 77cc version (4900 and 7700) which I have not run but those who have say they are comparable to the 85cc version.

Considering that the saw was introduced in 1975, I don't think there was anything in it's class that would run with it for another 10 years or more.

YOU GOTTTA GET ONE!
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Tim, I appreciate you taking the time to post the info.

This time I did remember to copy the info into a MS Word document. As always, I noted where it was posted (ArboristSite.com), who posted it (fossil/Tim), & the date (11-10-15).
 
I think a few of you know, but I've been looking/wanting a Poulan 4000 for quite a while. Well echoshawn beat me to a nice one a couple weeks ago, but, this week he decided to get rid of it and gave me the opportunity to buy it (thanks!). So we met, which was cool to put a face with the name and he's a really nice guy. Anyway, I took a few more pics after a quick wipe down and It's a really clean saw.

20151110_232901.jpg
20151110_232651.jpg
20151110_232802.jpg
20151110_222556.jpg

I do want to get your guys opinions on something though. The cylinder bolts were all a little loose, so I tightened those up. The muffler had a TON of carbon in it which I got cleaned out as well as cleaned out the exhaust port of carbon. The piston/cylinder look great except for a dark spot on one side of the piston but I don't think it's a big deal. However, here is my question. You can see in this first pic that the ports look like they have some carbon build up on them, do I need to remove it or is it fine to leave there?

20151110_223522.jpg

Pics of the piston.

20151110_223347.jpg
20151110_223407.jpg
 
ChipsFlyin said:
What's going on with the 365?
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Well I think it's minor. Bought the saw a while ago from a guy that was a bit clueless (well, more clueless than myself at least lol). He couldn't keep the saw running so he shot carb cleaner I think into the cylinder. Then he opened up the carb and shot it with an air gun. The freaking screen shot out and we couldn't find it. After buying it, I noticed the fuel filter came off the gas line. So I'll need a carb kit, probably change the fuel lines, possibly change the impulse line?, etc. I think I fixed the manual oiler.

JeremiahJohnson said:
If the 4200/5200 I know of FS he was asking $350. Younger guy that got saw from is grandpa.
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This saw was for $120. Up in MN.
 
Ambull01 said:
Well I think it's minor. Bought the saw a while ago from a guy that was a bit clueless (well, more clueless than myself at least lol). He couldn't keep the saw running so he shot carb cleaner I think into the cylinder. Then he opened up the carb and shot it with an air gun. The freaking screen shot out and we couldn't find it. After buying it, I noticed the fuel filter came off the gas line. So I'll need a carb kit, probably change the fuel lines, possibly change the impulse line?, etc. I think I fixed the manual oiler.



This saw was for $120. Up in MN.
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That does not sound too bad. Careful with that dry cylinder.
 
blk05crew said:
I think a few of you know, but I've been looking/wanting a Poulan 4000 for quite a while. Well echoshawn beat me to a nice one a couple weeks ago, but, this week he decided to get rid of it and gave me the opportunity to buy it (thanks!). So we met, which was cool to put a face with the name and he's a really nice guy. Anyway, I took a few more pics after a quick wipe down and It's a really clean saw.

View attachment 460440
View attachment 460442
View attachment 460443
View attachment 460444

I do want to get your guys opinions on something though. The cylinder bolts were all a little loose, so I tightened those up. The muffler had a TON of carbon in it which I got cleaned out as well as cleaned out the exhaust port of carbon. The piston/cylinder look great except for a dark spot on one side of the piston but I don't think it's a big deal. However, here is my question. You can see in this first pic that the ports look like they have some carbon build up on them, do I need to remove it or is it fine to leave there?

View attachment 460450

Pics of the piston.

View attachment 460451
View attachment 460453
Click to expand...

Probably won't hurt to leave it. But, I would clean it up if it were mine ...just because. ;)
Congrats on getting a 4000! My favorite all around use Poulan saw.

Gregg,
 
OhioGregg said:
Probably won't hurt to leave it. But, I would clean it up if it were mine ...just because. ;)
Congrats on getting a 4000! My favorite all around use Poulan saw.

Gregg,
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks Gregg! Pulling the cylinder off is the only to do it right? Look at all this carbon that was in the muffler!

20151110_223731.jpg
 

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