Nik's Poulan Thread

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s sidewall said:
What, no chainsaw. That's nice fire wood, one of those should last a few years plus give you an excuse to get a bigger saw. ;)

Steve
Click to expand...

I was kinda thinking the same thing. One giant Redwood or Sequoia, whatever it is, would keep me in firewood the rest of my life. :eek: Just go out and cut a few cords off of it every year.

Gregg,
 
Chris J. said:
From what's been posted here, generally speaking (not etched in stone) the red Craftsman 3.7 are thin ringed while the gray ones are thick ringed. I have no idea if the PowerSharp feature makes any difference.
Click to expand...
I had a red thin ring power sharp.
No rhyme nor reason from what I've seen
 
OhioGregg said:
I was kinda thinking the same thing. One giant Redwood or Sequoia, whatever it is, would keep me in firewood the rest of my life. :eek: Just go out and cut a few cords off of it every year.

Gregg,
Click to expand...
It is a federal offense to cut any Sequoia tree. I would like to meet the arborist on site and see his equipment on hand

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 
On the 3700 topic I have a Walbro HDB on the bottom beside the L is stamped 8 C . What carb kit should i buy ( part # ) on e bay HDB- 8 / K-10 is this correct ?
This will be my first repair kit install . I try and do it right the first time.
 
Just a Guy that cuts wood said:
On the 3700 topic I have a Walbro HDB on the bottom beside the L is stamped 8 C . What carb kit should i buy ( part # ) on e bay HDB- 8 / K-10 is this correct ?
This will be my first repair kit install . I try and do it right the first time.
Click to expand...
K10-hdb is the full kit with needle. D10-hdb is just the diaphrams and gaskets. Both will work on that carb. IMHO, K10, new lines, fuel filter and vent duckbill are ideal. New air filters are cheap as well.
 
fossil said:
What ever you do, don't blow the carb out with high pressure air. That can ruin the check valve.
Click to expand...

Oh geez...now you tell me Tim. I think every carb I ever took apart, cleaned, rebuilt, I used high pressure air on. Lol
I must be very lucky!

Gregg
 
OhioGregg said:
Oh geez...now you tell me Tim. I think every carb I ever took apart, cleaned, rebuilt, I used high pressure air on. Lol
I must be very lucky!

Gregg
Click to expand...

I started out that way and was lucky but several have ruined NLA check valves so I'm careful now. You really don't need high pressure air. 10 psi will clear all fine if you use carb cleaner or better still Sea Foam. I quite often just immerse the body in Sea Foam overnight. Especially on HS carbs. Works great. I dump it through a coffee filter and recycle it as well.
 
fossil said:
I started out that way and was lucky but several have ruined NLA check valves so I'm careful now. You really don't need high pressure air. 10 psi will clear all fine if you use carb cleaner or better still Sea Foam. I quite often just immerse the body in Sea Foam overnight. Especially on HS carbs. Works great. I dump it through a coffee filter and recycle it as well.
Click to expand...
that sounds like something i should have known
i like it
 
fossil said:
Some good help here

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?Series=HDB&partnum=HDB-8-1

Not sure if this vid is good but may be worth a look



Walbro repair manual

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf
Click to expand...

Watched vid. He never did put a straight edge across the top to adjust the needle valve lever. Also, his work surface looked to be pretty dirty; I use a new paper, shop towel to cover my work surface. You really want that new dirt in your carb? Also, he was pretty reckless with the blade and screwdriver scrapping the old gasket off. Remember that the carb is made of very soft metal and will scratch easily. Scratches can lead to leaks. I always take the time to get ALL the pieces of old gaskets off; may just be anal but makes me feel better
Other than seeing what things look like you'd be better off studying the walbro manual rather than watching the vid.
I never wear gloves when working on carbs; how you gonna be able to feel what yer doing?
I also soak my carbs but in acetone for a couple of days. Then spray em down with carb or brake cleaner. Then air dry with compressed air being sure to not use high pressure on the little tiny screen which conceals a check valve.
I've rebuilt several and may finally be getting the Gist
Go forth and conquer.
 

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