Nik's Poulan Thread

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I find this stuff invaluable for mending chaffed wire leads and just pasting down things.
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The thing to use to glue in plug leads to a coil.

I need to get another bottle from Lowes.
 
My first repair included liquid tape + 3M brand electrical tape but the original rubber cover over the insulation would not allow it to tuck down into the slot. I think we should be good for now.

I will need to try another flywheel, are the 3400 and 3700 interchangeable?

Or maybe I need to take the 3400 out of a spin as well...

Mark
 
Looking for a rebuild kit, or new walboro carb for a 42cc craftsman/poulan saw where is the cheapest place?

Waiting on Jesus
 
I have been running the 3700 all week (thanks again Modified Mark) and may have trouble going by to my favorite McCulloch 7-10 one day. Only issue has been the primary wire rubbing on the flywheel causing an intermittent miss. I patched it once with tape, then finally took it down far enough to put two layers of heat shrink tube over the whole wire and really tuck it away to try and keep it from the flywheel.

One question for those with experience; should the flywheel just lift off once the nut is removed, or do you normally need to use a puller. This one seems a bit loose and comes right off once the nut is off.

Mark

Mark,

There should be two little sheet metal tabs secured with screws that the wire should be held down with. If you need a pic let me know.
If you look at page 6, figure 16 in the repair manual you can see the tabs there.

Those flywheels should be a tight fit. Check the flywheel hub to make sure it's not cracked.

The manual states that the flywheel should be struck on the off magnet side to get it off. No pullers. Some are stubborn. I use a mallet and a piece of hardwood.

The starter dogs are common for a 3700 and 4000 and common for a 3400 and a 3800. Some Craftsman 3700's came with 3400 type flywheels and dogs. The dogs are held on with splined studs. To change to a 3400 type flywheel you would have to use a 3400 style stater pulley. The 3400/3800 starter pulleys are still made while the 3700 / 4000 pulleys are getting quite rare.
 
Thanks Tim.

The tabs are there, the original rubber "second skin" on the wire would not allow it to tuck down in the slot adjacent to the fuel tank. I think I have that part of the problem solved for now.

The flywheel definitely comes off by hand once the nut is removed. I may need to look for a different flywheel.

Mark
 
Its your fault! ALL of you for giving me CAD I was happy with 4,5,6,7, saw plan lol all Poulan and a husky now I have a disease ! 69 cc Dynamark off Ebay only bid was mine
We will see next week what I get . Listed as a runner .4.2.JPG 4.2a.JPG 4.2b.JPG
Looks like a Lombard ? No stickies on Dynamark so your stuck with me . All Kidding aside I look forward to the help/direction you have given in the past.
 
Rebuilding a skil 1636 frankinsaw. Case, p/c, starter, clutch cover are original. Handle assembly and fuel tank S25DA. reprinting the handle and tank to sorta match the skil parts; close but not exact.
Missing the fuel cap. Anyone got one they could part with?
 
Rebuilding a skil 1636 frankinsaw. Case, p/c, starter, clutch cover are original. Handle assembly and fuel tank S25DA. reprinting the handle and tank to sorta match the skil parts; close but not exact.
Missing the fuel cap. Anyone got one they could part with?
Did you get your craftsman 2.1 figured out and running.
 
Its your fault! ALL of you for giving me CAD I was happy with 4,5,6,7, saw plan lol all Poulan and a husky now I have a disease ! 69 cc Dynamark off Ebay only bid was mine
We will see next week what I get . Listed as a runner .View attachment 518066 View attachment 518067 View attachment 518068
Looks like a Lombard ? No stickies on Dynamark so your stuck with me . All Kidding aside I look forward to the help/direction you have given in the past.

That is in exceptional condition. I've never seen an anti vibe Lombard before. Nice score.
 
Ran a couple tanks through the latest 3400 today. Funny carb? Full kit, new seals, dropped the jug...the works. It idles and throttles great from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 on the L. Leaner than 1 1/4 L and it starts to struggle and drop off. H is pig rich even at 7/8. Had to lean it to 3/4. Ran strong at that. Usually, I am a bit closer to 1 and 1. Although, I am cutting between 4000-5000 ft. I did pull the carb before and raise the lever proud a couple thousands or so. It will not run at 1 and 1. Needles are straight and carb is clean. Any time I get a saw that is deviating from factory settings I feel compelled to investigate. Even if it is running well. OCD.

Thoughts? Just run it?

Poulan 3400 79 2.jpg

Poulan 3400 79 4.jpg
 
Discovered something new today. The OEM metering valve on the carb and the current Walbro 82-75-7 I replaced it with have the receiver in the valve at different heights. Newer ones require noticeably more travel on the lever before unseating the valve, when set flush. They also seat rather quickly.
 
The HDB-8 off of the '79 3400.

Also discovered the early units do not have a built in trigger/throttle return spring. The trigger does not have the same travel as the later units. Linkage needed considerable tweaking to get the throttle lock to engage properly. All likely contributing to the pesky starting issue the PO (and I) struggled with.
 
The HDB-8 off of the '79 3400.

Is that HDB-8 carb an independent, or dependent, design for the two mixture needles? In other words, does the same high speed fuel pickup port also serve the low?

Adjustments make me think it's got a laquer film or some other crap in the low speed orifice, and needs a good copper wire or drill bit cleaning.

I know that's not recommended by Walbro, but if you gently twist (by hand) a smaller size number drill around the hole & see debris on the drill flutes, you need to really clean it out.
 
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