Nik's Poulan Thread

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I'll reply once I get home from work. There was oil dripping down the face of the bar when I took the side cover off, and oil piled up just outside the tube, but none in the bar rails. Chain is nice and sharp. The chain also goes tight without cutting, just when it keeps moving around the bar. I'm stumped.

Hoggwood, where is the duckbill fitting located?
 
I'll reply once I get home from work. There was oil dripping down the face of the bar when I took the side cover off, and oil piled up just outside the tube, but none in the bar rails. Chain is nice and sharp. The chain also goes tight without cutting, just when it keeps moving around the bar. I'm stumped.

Hoggwood, where is the duckbill fitting located?
Ginger, is the clutch new or just the drum sprocket? Or both? Is the bar but right enough so that the bar is not moving?

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I just picked up what is supposed to be an NOS 4000 cyl, the bore is the right dia {1.935 by my calipers} but it isn't plated so I don't really know what it is. I'm unable to post pics myself so could some post a pick of a 4000 or 3700 cylinder from the intake side so I can compare?
 
Stripped the 475 all the way down to where the crankcase could be split. Not going to use the right half anyways as it was the half I had to redneck repair.
Will use a 445 crankcase or other 475 cc. All I want from this 475 was the good crankshaft for the 445 or other 475. All the parts put in a bin and shelved.

Still havent come up with anything to fit this freaking worm gear. Guarandangtee ya no freaking worm gear will be going back on with the nos 475 seal and bearings. Will all be updated bearing seal and oiler system from the 505 445 425 stuff.
 
I just picked up what is supposed to be an NOS 4000 cyl, the bore is the right dia {1.935 by my calipers} but it isn't plated so I don't really know what it is. I'm unable to post pics myself so could some post a pick of a 4000 or 3700 cylinder from the intake side so I can compare?

3700 4000 plated cylinders.

3400 3800 bare bore cylinders.

Make sure on this because my mind is fuzzy on the 3800 I owned too. Just to many saws in the past to remember.
 
What # are on it or markings? My 4000 cylinders all have a 4 on them

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All mine look the same. They are coated with something. 3700 as well

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Ginger, is the clutch new or just the drum sprocket? Or both? Is the bar but right enough so that the bar is not moving?

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Just the drum. Bar is tight when mounted.

How are you adjusting the chain, are you holding the bar up when you adjust it, oil also be in the grove, not all over the side of the bar.

Steve
Always held up. Does not look like oil is pumping at the moment. So I need to find the duckbill and replace it. I have another bar and chain that can be swapped on. It's an 18" that came with it from ebay. I put a 14" on it. Photos will be grabbed later tonight. Thanks for the help so far everyone.
 
Are there multiple bar mounts for the 3700? D176 is one right? Others?


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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
 
Large mount Homelite 096/196/uxl etc., work with stud spacers. It was standard (at least in Canada) to use the spacers. Whatever bars they had a surplus of, they made them work.

The 176 Oregon mount is "correct".

The Homelite and Poulan factories in Canada used a lot of the large mount bars on the smaller stud saws.
 
I'm looking for a GB bar but retailers don't seem to carry Ex mount which is their D176


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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
 
I know like hogwood said homelite bars will work with the "s" clip. Also i have found that if you take 3/8 steel fuel line, get the shortest piece 8" i think then take a tubing cutter cut off the flared ends then measure the thickness of your bar and cut little rings off the tubing the same thickness and tap them onto the bar studs. Fits even tighter than the s clip and they wont fall off.
 

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