Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

Are there multiple bar mounts for the 3700? D176 is one right? Others?


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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

Most in Canada came with Windsor UXL mount (Oregon D096) bars with a spacer for the bar studs. The D096 bars have a 3/8" slot and the studs are 5/16". The spacers were typically an "S" clip.

You can also use a piece of a 3/8" OD extension spring using about 4 four coils cut off for each stud.

 

[Ginger15]

Photo is of the old sprocket.

 

[Boomer 87]

Just to be sure that is a low pro chain correct? It almost looks like full 3/8

 

[Big Dan]

All mine look the same. They are coated with something. 3700 as well

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Well alright then, sounds like I've got me a new 4000 cyl.

 

[Ginger15]

Just to be sure that is a low pro chain correct? It almost looks like full 3/8

Chain is a 91VXL, 91 stamped on the DL. You can see it in the photo.

 

[redunshee]

Yes Acornhill, there is a 4 stamped on the base so maybe it is a 4000 but it sure doesn't look plated.

Don't believe the 4000 has a chrome bore. If I recall it is an aluminum cylinder with a chrome cylinder. Opposite the 3700. Thin ring though similar to the 3700.

Now u got me thinking. May have to look at my 4000.

 

[fossil]

Don't believe the 4000 has a chrome bore. If I recall it is an aluminum cylinder with a chrome cylinder. Opposite the 3700. Thin ring though similar to the 3700.

Now u got me thinking. May have to look at my 4000.

3700 and 4000 have chrome bores. Here's a handy document from Poulan which lists which are chromed and which are bare. Not all saws are on there.
One for pistons as well.

 

[fossil]

Well, my poulan's chain keeps going tight. It has a new clutch drum and the oiler line is fixed. Anyone have the correct bar mount # for a 2300? It's running a new poulan bar which fits nice and the tensioner lines up, but looks like the oiler might be a little off. But that wouldnt make the chain go from loose to completely tight in 10 seconds. Any ideas?

No oil on the bar and chain will only make the chain go loose. It expands with the heat of friction.

The only issues I can see that could make the chain go tight are,

Worn sprocket (no issue here as you have a new one)
Wrong chain pitch. ( I can see the 91 on the DL's so that's right)

Wrong pitch on the sprocket, like 1/4" pitch
wrong pitch in the bar nose sprocket.

Check the last two.

Make sure the bar in an LP bar.
I don't think the micro's had a 1/4 pitch sprocket.

What's the PN stamped into the sprocket drum?
What are all the numbers / letters stamped into the bar?

 

[s sidewall]

Looks like the correct bar he's got, same as my 2000.

Steve

 

[Ginger15]

Bar P/N: 530044691. Other numbers on it are: 14 91-52 6x.

No numbers on the sprocket. But the used one has an M engraved on one of the teeth.

P/N I ordered for the sprocket was 530069166. Which changed nothing. Chain goes tight with the old sprocket, and new sprocket. I am cranking on it when I tighten the bar down. Maybe its just not holding.

 

[redunshee]

3700 and 4000 have chrome bores. Here's a handy document from Poulan which lists which are chromed and which are bare. Not all saws are on there.
One for pistons as well.

Should have checked before opening my mouth. Have the same data on my laptop but not at home right now. You are correct of course.

 

[fossil]

I am cranking on it when I tighten the bar down. Maybe its just not holding.

Don't get overly ham fisted tightening the bar clamp down. The chain often tightens more when you tighten the clamp screw / bolt. You might break the saw case.

This has to be something really simple. It's a little tough to diagnose on line.

When you tighten the nut down, is the chain tight on the bar or can you easily lift the chain off the bar?
Does the saw have a brake on it? If it does and it's dragging, it will get worse when it heats up as the drum will get hot.

 

[Ginger15]

Don't get overly ham fisted tightening the bar clamp down. The chain often tightens more when you tighten the clamp screw / bolt. You might break the saw case.

This has to be something really simple. It's a little tough to diagnose on line.

When you tighten the nut down, is the chain tight on the bar or can you easily lift the chain off the bar?
Does the saw have a brake on it? If it does and it's dragging, it will get worse when it heats up as the drum will get hot.

I'm not over doing it, I'm just trying to elim the possibility that the bar is sliding. I can easily lift the chain off the bar. There is no chain brake. I dont think any 2300's came with one.

It will spin freely, and then slowly start bogging the saw down as the chain tightens itself until the point the saw can no longer turn the chain.

 

[s sidewall]

The way I'm thinking, if was wrong drum, you could see it when moving chain by hand, it would bind out and you could see it with the cover off. If wrong bar sprocket, it would do the same, same if the wrong chain. Been there with the chain, grabbed wrong one off the chain hook over work table. Have you tried a different chain?

Steve

 

[Ginger15]

I will put the 18" b&c that came with it back on and test it.

 

[fossil]

not at home right now.

Up in the NE now doing a little visiting and cutting?

 

[Ginger15]

The opposite happened with the 18" B&C setup, it went loose, due to no oil.

 

[Acornhill]

I think we are getting somewhere now

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

[Ginger15]

The bars are the same brand and pitch.

 

[s sidewall]

When I got to the farm Saturday I'll take a look at my 2000 and see what the numbers are on everything and see how it matches up to what you have. Its running all factory parts on it with a 16" bar. Also I'll look at my Craftsman Red 2.3 and see what it has, should be the same.

Steve