Nik's Poulan Thread
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redunshee
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I understand from earlier posts that you had partially split the case. If you have all 9 screws out you can tap the halves to separate them. Only thing holding them together are two pins and sealant. They don't use a gasket. When reassembling halves, put a thin coat of sealant on both sides and push together. I then stick in the screws and tighten them. I've never torqued them, myself. Once apart it's a good time to check the oil output and pickup lines.
ANewSawyer
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The oil output line is a hard piece of plastic, is it supposed to be? The pickup looked good, no debris on it. I will need to clean the oiler tank, as I got some debris in the tank while removing the oil pump. I don't think I would want to rinse the oil tank on this saw with gas, as I have done on other saws, for fear of the gas melting something on the or in the oiler. I am not going to do anything with the pump itself, since the ganders and diaphrams are nla. It works just fine. Though I am flumoxed by how the auto oiler works, since there isn't an obvious externally drive.
I can't thank you guys enough for the help. I would be lost without. Hmmm, as you can tell, some times I am lost with it!
I can't thank you guys enough for the help. I would be lost without. Hmmm, as you can tell, some times I am lost with it!
redunshee
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Yes, the output line is somewhat stiff though you can replace it with Tyson if need be. If it's intact I wouldn't bother. Once I he case is split it's an easy task to clean the two oil tank halves. The auto oiler is operated by impulses from the piston movement the same way the air impulse operate the carb. If you look you will see the impulse hole in the clutch side case half.
ANewSawyer
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I'm not understanding what you mean by tap the case, sorry. Where do I tap it or do I just lay the case on its side and tap the upper half where I like? 
Hiya Pete,
Thanks for the offer. I have a few micros/2300's etc. in the mix already. Don't run them really. For smaller saws, I find the s25da and 2.5 Homies hard to beat.
That 3400 could come in handy though. Can you set it aside? I have a funky carb on one and could use a sprocket, maybe covers/bar/etc.
Crazy...still waiting on those 2 big old Pioneers we chatted about. Fellow has been away falling for quite some time.
FWIW, replace the black pick-up line in the tank. They are usually on their way out. They will develop tears that cannot be seen through the coil sheath. A new piece of Tygon can fitted. Keep and use the steel coil. You can see how the old line had kinked where the coil had slipped away from the pump body. New gaskets are easy to trace and cut. It is essential that you have no air leaks between the body and case as well as cover and body. Good insurance.
There is a tab on the rear of the case just below the trigger where the halves meet. You can carefully tap on that to help break the seal between the halves. Don't go crazy as that area is thin.
redunshee
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You can tap it gently on the the inside of each half. The only thing keeping it together is the sealant.I'm not understanding what you mean by tap the case, sorry. Where do I tap it or do I just lay the case on its side and tap the upper half where I like?
Let the Motoseal cure for at least 24 hours after assembley and do not touch it until then.
ANewSawyer
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Good info! I have already replaced the case to pump gasket. Should I put sealant on the case to pump gasket while reassembling? Not necessary though. I should have some tygon laying around. So I should replace the interior oiler gasket too? It was working, so I haven't been planning to open it, cause if I damage the diaphram I will be neck deep in trouble. And the output line will get a thourgh inspection. I will replace it if I see a crank, kink or tear. Thanks guys!!! Super fiendlypeople are what keeps me on this forum.
redunshee
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Be careful using sealant between the oil pump and case. As I mentioned there is an impulse opening in the case that matches up to the impulse opening in the pump. The sealant could block it. If the gasket is good, no sealant is required.
nice covers, paint. it will sit here. til you or yer dad comes by...
ANewSawyer
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Back with another stupid question: If the oil pump is impulse driven off the crankcase, shouldn't that hole need to be blocked during pressure and vac testing? Otherwise, wouldn't pres/vac bleed off through the oil pump? Either out the intake or out the output line. Idk, stupid question.
Nice call, Hoggwood! Oil line snapped just beyond the pump barb while I was trying to remove it from the barb. Case is split. Gonna use a scotebrite pad to remove the old sealant from the case. The base gasket delete looks good when taken apart. But I used way to much motoseal. It got all over the piston And stuck the upper ring in the groove! Whoops!
Nice call, Hoggwood! Oil line snapped just beyond the pump barb while I was trying to remove it from the barb. Case is split. Gonna use a scotebrite pad to remove the old sealant from the case. The base gasket delete looks good when taken apart. But I used way to much motoseal. It got all over the piston And stuck the upper ring in the groove! Whoops!
If the two gaskets are good and your pump is sound, you should be fine on the test. I have on occasion taped off the impulse line in the case before installing the pump as you noted. That should eliminate/ isolate a leak in the pump if you are having issues.
I like to trowel on my Motoseal with a Popsicle stick. Clean and uniform.
I like to trowel on my Motoseal with a Popsicle stick. Clean and uniform.
redunshee
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I've not had an issue with testing, though Modified Mark whose opinion I respect says you should block of the impulse hole.
ANewSawyer
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I can test it both ways to be sure.
redunshee
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Test it first without blocking he impulse opening. If it holds your good to go. Do it with the pump cover( saw cover) off so if it leak is you can spray some soapy water around the pump to see if that's where it's leaking. In my experience 99% of the leaks I've found are either the seals or intake adaptor.
Had another cutting session this AM at the local firewood fundraiser. Ran a few tanks through some Poulans. Orange, green and yellow. Cutting was a pleasure. Massive decks of logs in the 8" - 14" range. Just let them drop through the rounds. Sounding, cutting and looking much better than the armada of German saws if I might say. Each Poulan easily held its own against the equivalent MS series. Had a few folks looking over the collection.
ANewSawyer
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I don't believe that the S saws are the best german saws. Dolly gives them a run for their money. Don't own one of either though. Personal opinion only.
So I have the case split and the mating surfaces cleaned. I washed the oil tank out, it had a bunch of chips in it, and am waiting for it to dry. Besides, remembering to put the crank back in before reassembling, is their anything else I need to do?
So I have the case split and the mating surfaces cleaned. I washed the oil tank out, it had a bunch of chips in it, and am waiting for it to dry. Besides, remembering to put the crank back in before reassembling, is their anything else I need to do?
Make sure the thrust washers are in the right way. If you haven't already done so, now is a good time to replace the seals.
