Nik's Poulan Thread

[ANewSawyer]

Seals are brand spanking new. I haven't removed the washers from the crank, they should be still on there, stepped side out. Are they to keep the crank from hitting the case, since the needle bearings don't hold the crank like a pressed in crank bearing saw would?

I just keep fighting a mental image of me putting it together and realizing I left the crank out... Don't ask why.

 

[rocketnorton]

Had another cutting session this AM at the local firewood fundraiser. Ran a few tanks through some Poulans. Orange, green and yellow. Cutting was a pleasure. Massive decks of logs in the 8" - 14" range. Just let them drop through the rounds. Sounding, cutting and looking much better than the armada of German saws if I might say. Each Poulan easily held its own against the equivalent MS series. Had a few folks looking over the collection.

no ms here 026, 038m, 044, 075. the 044 slowly comin together, gonna be interestin next to 038m... hows the big green one?

 

[Hoggwood]

No ms here either. Few earlier good runners. 070, 056, and 084 projects in queue as well. Just about have everything.

Held off on running that big Poulan out in the bush. I wanted to line up a set of seals just in case. Had a bit of a tour trying to track a set down. Got some racks on wheels for the saws and moved the shop around. Had misplaced my Mityvac in the process. Guess I put it in a safe place...for about the past 2.5 months. Have everything I need to give it a tune-up and do a proper pressure/vac test on the case/carb.

Sure sounds nice though. Hammered through a couple rounds in the front yard. All business.

 

[fossil]

Seals are brand spanking new. I haven't removed the washers from the crank, they should be still on there, stepped side out. Are they to keep the crank from hitting the case, since the needle bearings don't hold the crank like a pressed in crank bearing saw would?

I just keep fighting a mental image of me putting it together and realizing I left the crank out... Don't ask why.

Yes the thrust washers go shoulder out, towards the bearings. They are spacers. The depth of the bearings set the side to side play of the crankshaft. Poulan made a tool to set the bearing depth PN 530031074. I don't have one and should make one as setting the depth correctly so there is adequate but not too much side play is a pain.

I never did forget a crankshaft assembly but did put one in backwards once. DUH

Do you have a repair manual? If not, let me know and I'll send you a link to one. It's a very good manual.

 

[hotshot]

Tim,
What's the maximum end play you're good with on that series?

To ANewSawyer, I'd mock assemble that case and check the crank end play.

If it's alot over 0.025" you can pull the seals (if you didn't just put brand new ones in) and lightly tap the bearings in equally with a socket to tighten it up.

I've set them cold at 0.020 to .025" in the past with new bearings & thrusts, and that is more than enough clearance for a 370F hot crank. At a 300F rise it only grows 0.005", not counting the two brass thrusts or subtracting the magnesium case expansion.

Brand new brass thrusts are 0.101" thick.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Fossil, you graciously provided me with a service manual long ago.

End play, that is side to side correct? How would I measure it?

 

[bigbearlogging]

Anyone interested in a nos poulan 3400

 

[Efisher26]

$? Out of curiosity?


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
Husqvarna 36

 

[3000 FPS]

Fossil, you graciously provided me with a service manual long ago.

End play, that is side to side correct? How would I measure it?

Yes that is correct.

 

[bigbearlogging]

$? Out of curiosity?


-•------------------------------------------------------------


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
Husqvarna 36

Was thinking 250 or trade for homelite

 

[fossil]

I go with 0.015 max. I've seen a few 4000 pistons that have been smacking the case and get grooved. Mostly I suspect due to worn thrust washers. Certainly not as critical on the 3400.

I use a magnetic stand on a 1/4" steel plate and gauge like the one in the vid to check it. You could roughly measure it as well with a vernier by measuring the play from one side to the other as well if you don't have one that is used in the video I usually place a bag of lead shot on the saw case to hold it in place.

 

[hotshot]

Fossil, you graciously provided me with a service manual long ago.

End play, that is side to side correct? How would I measure it?

Dial caliper's end depth stem can get you close, but using an indicator & magnetic base is best.

 

[fossil]

Having said that, the 3400 - 4000 series are not tight tolerance saws. The needle bearings have a radial play of around 0.004" - .0.006" which you can feel wiggling the crank end up and down. regardless of that, they are very durable and forgiving saws. I think you would really have to go way outside of spec to mess one up.
Well designed or the homeowner. Poulan really got a lot of their saws "right".
I like them.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I have seen dial indicators before but, I don't have one. Who makes a quality one? Starrett? I do have a chinese pair of dial calipers them seem accurate enough, checked against a feeler guage. Sheesh, I liked working on these things because they are simple. So much for that, I am enjoying it though. I might can feel "a little play" side to side but am not experienced enough to tell what is much or little.
Am if the process of cleaning up the case from the base gakset delete. It was all in the cylinder, on the piston, stuck a ring and running down the transfers inside the case. Do you think I used enough?
I haven't put the case together yet but did figure out why my first rebuild, a Shindaiwa, still wouldn't run. I had the isolator gasket on upside down, so it blocked the impulse port from cylinder to carb block to carb. I will never know how I got that to run at all. And I had previously put the carb gasket , between isolator and carb, on wrong too. Five star genius!

 

[fossil]

Starrett stuff is really pricey, or was the last time checked. Mitutoyo makes good stuff. If that's all you're using it for something cheaper might be appropriate.
I'd not sure I'd bother. Use the vernier calipers to check it. If you're within a few thou you should be OK.

Hotshot has it right when he says to try fitting it by putting the case halves together without sealant and checking the side to side (lateral) play. I've had luck pushing the seals out without damaging them by pushing on the bearing.

 

[fossil]

I use these little glue brushes for motoseal. They work well and you don't need much. easy to find at wood working stores.

 

[s sidewall]

I use a dial indicator that has a vice grip on one end, great for mounting on just about anything, just can't recall brand or how much they cost, old service manager ordered them for me ages ago.

Steve

 

[astnmacgto]

I use a dial indicator that has a vice grip on one end, great for mounting on just about anything, just can't recall brand or how much they cost, old service manager ordered them for me ages ago.

Steve

Those are nice, but you have to get a good one, my experience with the cheap ones they won't ever stay tight. If I can I prefer the magnetic base type. But you can't always use them

 

[redunshee]

Dial caliper's end depth stem can get you close, but using an indicator & magnetic base is best.

From my perspective any end play(radial) means new bearings are needed.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Commented a while back about the clutches on the 4200-8500 being the same as the 306-245 and the comment was contradicted. Anyhow the clutch, sprocket, springs, bearings, shoes and all are the same. Pulled the springs from a 306 clutch last night and installed them on the 4900 clutch. While the clutches were off I compared every part of each clutch and they are all the same. Just so ya all know...