Nik's Poulan Thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

A vac/pressure test certainly eliminates the guesswork and saves a bunch of time. That's why I asked. Then again, there's something to be said about doing it the long way........
......once!

Good luck with it.

 

[Kensie1988]

Well if making covers to block the intake and exhaust wasn't such a pain I probably would have started with that, I am selectively lazy only lazy when it comes to certain things I don't want to do haha

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well I'm kinda just trying to check the obvious places first, crankseals, carb, carb adapter etc. but if none of it works then I will have to fabricate some pieces to block off exhaust and intake so I can pressure vacuum test it. I've never been that deep into a chainsaw before so I was mostly going about it the long way for the experience.

You need to change out the carb before you go messing with more stuff.

The carb can let it act like a air leak when put on its side.

My 744 was doing the same thing, and I knew it had no air leaks as I went through the whole saw prior. That said I went ahead and changed the FW side seal again as it was showing that symptom but it changed nothing.

I didn't have a bunch of time to mess with it as we were getting ready to head out to the Baraboo GTG so I changed out the carb and it flat fixed it.

I don't know why that carb was doing that, at first glance I could not see anything wrong with it and have not had time to go deeper into it.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well if making covers to block the intake and exhaust wasn't such a pain I probably would have started with that, I am selectively lazy only lazy when it comes to certain things I don't want to do haha

Maybe your not cut out for collecting old saws after all? These things are part of that.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Wasn't someone looking for a 3300 piston a while ago? I found one this afternoon..

I also found the chrome 3.0 piston that was only used by Craftsman..

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Well if making covers to block the intake and exhaust wasn't such a pain....

Use Gorilla tape and test through the plug hole. Doesn't get much lazier. (Sorry for the Husky, fellas. Only example I had handy.)

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[fossil]

Use Gorilla tape and test through the plug hole. Doesn't get much lazier. (Sorry for the Husky, fellas. Only example I had handy.)

View attachment 550315

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That's OK Poge. I heard the Poulan engineers took over Husky when EMAB bought them. The Husky engineers have focused on the Wild Thing ever since.

 

[Kensie1988]

Well new gaskets behind the adapter on the intake and between the carb and adapter did not solve the problem :/

I also have this nasty stuff coming out the exhaust...

 

[fossil]

Try this. Get yourself some Sea Foam Motor treatment. Take the covers off the carb, needles out, gaskets and diaphragms out, metering needle out and pour enough Sea Foam in a glass or whatever to cover the carb and leave it for a couple of days. Put it back together and give it a go.
I've had three HS carbs that wouldn't run worth a damn, I pulled the welch plugs and cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner with no success. I tried the Sea Foam deal and they worked great.

Worth a try in your case. I recycle the stuff since it can be used several times.

 

[Kensie1988]

Then that is what I will do, I'll pick up some tomorrow.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The Husky engineers have focused on the Wild Thing ever since.

And a fine job they've done indeed! Eh?

 

[Acornhill]

what is the deal with the Poulan Pro 220 series type saws that have the plastic oiler gear and wire gear for the crankshaft? this set up sucks oil out of the oil tank? on the type 4 there is an extra oil hole in the case by the bar adjuster area. Why is this? the type 1-3 do not have it.

 

[fossil]

View attachment 550329 Anyone like these?

I have a PP295 I carry on my ATV. I really like it. It did shear the cast in flywheel key though. Not sure what caused that. I just put it back together without. Runs great.

 

[motor head]

I have a PP295 I carry on my ATV. I really like it. It did shear the cast in flywheel key though. Not sure what caused that. I just put it back together without. Runs great.

They seem to hold up pretty good,I ported a couple of them about a year ago and run them quite a bit,no problems so far and they're turning 14000 free spin.

 

[fossil]

3000FPS did some tough mods on one and apparently it really rips. They stand up pretty well if treated kindly. A friend I ATV with used one for ten years with no issues, He replaced it with a clamshell Stihl, and another clamshell Stihl. He misses that saw. I think it was a 4620.
Where we ATV, the paint on a coke can is gone in about four hours of riding. The plastic saws seem to stand up better with that kind of abuse.

 

[fwgsaw]

posting my first poulan

 

[s sidewall]

I built up a free wild thing about 4 years ago and she still rips, have to ease it off the compression stroke before starting or it will snatch the handle out of your hand. Good saw for cutting trees out of the creek with and will shoot a rooster tail pretty high.

Steve

 

[rocketnorton]

View attachment 550404 posting my first poulan

qtla. that's a g'lookin saw...

 

[redunshee]

Well new gaskets behind the adapter on the intake and between the carb and adapter did not solve the problem :/

I also have this nasty stuff coming out the exhaust...

One other place to check though not easy to see is where the reed valve fits into the case. Not at the opening but where the reed tunnel meets the crankcase. I couldn't find the leak either. However after sprayng soapy water all over the place I noticed bubbles coming coming upbetween the case and rear handle/fuel tank assembly. After removing said assembly there was a hairline crack where Poulan had used sealant between the reed tunnel and crankcase. Simply used a little JB Weld and problem fixed.

 

[Kensie1988]

Well since I will be seafoaming the carburetor for a few days I will go ahead and remove the carb case and handle to get at the cylinder to clean and get a better view when I pressure vac test it