I think it goes above the post and actually goes above the coil too and along the underside of the body. MM did the cats-ass write up on replacing these lines some time ago.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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I would think that fuel line laying on that hot cylinder would not be best. It might vapor lock like a old Homelite. LOL
It don't matter to me, its your saw. LOL
What kind of line is that you used?
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Poulan line I had on hand. It's stiff and kinks easy. I hope it lasts. Do you have any problems with yours pumping fuel after they have set a few months? My theory is the reed gets dry and doesn't seal good enough to give a good impulse.
That will last a little while but its not the best line.
I think they all take a dozen or so pulls to start when set for that long. Its just a lot of line to get fuel pulled through, just the nature of the beast as far as I'm concerned. Stiff fuel pump diaphragms make it worse.
The reed is steel and is dry most the time when not running..
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was just about to torque the flywheel to 5000 ft lbs when I decided to see if anyone responded to my first post. I wasn't going to pull it out of the tank, that's the pita side.
To test my theory on the dry reed, I had the carb off and dripped some 2 cycle oil on the reed. Put the carb back on and it fired in a few pulls. This was on a rebuilt carb too, with new mounting gaskets, not the one pictured. I don't think the choke will help pull the fuel up if the pump isn't getting its pulse. I pulled at least 20 times on another one tonight and it never coughed. I have 3 of these saws. I put a little primer down the carb and it was running in a few pulls. 2 out of the 3 have rebuilt carbs. Use them daily and they fire right up.
To test my theory on the dry reed, I had the carb off and dripped some 2 cycle oil on the reed. Put the carb back on and it fired in a few pulls. This was on a rebuilt carb too, with new mounting gaskets, not the one pictured. I don't think the choke will help pull the fuel up if the pump isn't getting its pulse. I pulled at least 20 times on another one tonight and it never coughed. I have 3 of these saws. I put a little primer down the carb and it was running in a few pulls. 2 out of the 3 have rebuilt carbs. Use them daily and they fire right up.
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
Where exactly does the leak originate, I'm going to break it apart tomorrow and cut a new gasket for it. I replace the last crank seal today and it still does it. So now I am starting from the fuel tank and working my way back.
My 306 leaked between the carb adaptor and case or between the carb adaptor and reed block. Not sure now which one. The gasket was cork.
Here's a fairly clear IPL
Here's a fairly clear IPL
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
Awesome, thank you! I will replace it tonight, I have some gasket material, I'll make a new one. And this caused your saw to race while on its side?
It didn't race on it's side. Another thing you may want to check is the condition of the throttle shaft on the carb. It shouldn't have any perceptible play in it. Sometimes they wear out on HS carbs and cause an air leak that can't be tuned out.
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
I will surely check that as well, there is only a couple more places it could be since I put in new crank seals
How are you testing?
Crap, looks like I got a bunch of 306/245 stuff too.
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
Well I'm kinda just trying to check the obvious places first, crankseals, carb, carb adapter etc. but if none of it works then I will have to fabricate some pieces to block off exhaust and intake so I can pressure vacuum test it. I've never been that deep into a chainsaw before so I was mostly going about it the long way for the experience.
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